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Posted: Wed Jan 19, 2011 8:05 am
by waternot
Hi , I am laying a paved drive both pavers, Flags/slabs combined .
The base for this is concrete as the majority of it was in ok condition and i have repaired the bad parts with SBR mix .
Im then going to lay pavers on a morter bed and also sbr underneath (a bit will go up the sides)pavers.
My question is as i dont wish to use slurry grout .
1/. Can i get non permiable polymetric sand .
or
2/. Can i fill joints the normal way and would a sealer water proof this sand.
or
3/. Has anybody got any ideas as a slurry on a slope and the type of bricks i have would make a mess and make a big job out of what should be a pleasurable one .
Thanks . 
Posted: Wed Jan 19, 2011 10:57 am
by Tony McC
Why are you laying pavers on mortar? Concrete pavers are not designed to be laid in that manner.
Q1 - despite what some manufacturers claim, every polymeric jointing material I've ever seen or used is, to a greater or lesser degree, permeable.
Q2 - Normal way? The normal way for mortar bedded paving is mortar joints. If you mean sand-filled, then it's a no. The sealers will not waterproof the sand.
Q3 - If you don't slurry, then your only other real option is gun-injection
Posted: Wed Jan 19, 2011 9:57 pm
by waternot
Thank you for your reply
Why am i using morter - im in Wales Half way up a mountain and the drive is set where most of the water runs off from behind the house and is in shade nearly all day.
Left to its own it can get very green and leafy hense it needs a good wash now and again and sand would get washed away and it will be on a concrete base ,i have fitted new edgings and had to keep them as low as i could. The pavers i have are 50 mm as are the slabs i have and i only have 10mm left to play with for morter.
I might also add the pavers will not be driven over there only for effect the car will go over the slabs.
Now im tempted to go for slurry its not much more work it just seems it i think with all the muck involved.
Posted: Wed Jan 19, 2011 10:58 pm
by lutonlagerlout
this whole scenario has fail written all over it, waternot
IMHO 10mm of mortar is not enough
laying over concrete is poor /bad practise
you perhaps should have asked this question before you started
all the best
LLL
Posted: Wed Jan 19, 2011 11:05 pm
by waternot
Hmm i cant see fail at all if its gor a boder and a solid bed nothing can go anywhere . Concrete thast been tehre for years would it not be the best sugrade you could have ?
Posted: Thu Jan 20, 2011 9:58 am
by Tony McC
None of the reasons you give justify the construction method. What you're proposing is akin to building the Post Office Tower when all you really need is an aerial for the telly in the back bedroom.
Have you read any of the main website?
Posted: Thu Jan 20, 2011 5:42 pm
by waternot
Hello again yes i have read this site for a few years now.
I'll try to keep this short i allready had a concrete base most of it around 8 inches thick and 1950s style concrete very hard stuff with a few paches that had broken up due to extra drains a few years ago ( done by jcb as there was an extention done the same time) when poorer quality concrete was put in its place.
Yes i agree it does seem a little post office towerish but the cost after working it out came in at a good 500 pounds cheaper without labour. My Kango only nibbles the stuff .
The costs of breaking the main concrete pad up(get a machine, jack hammer , lorry) and having to get it taken away was far to much ,so came to the conclution after much deliberation including cost of using cement and sbr
it still comes in cheaper.
The quotes i had to tarmac it were also higher than it would cost to use basic pavers and slabs .
Post office tower again this is why i wanted to know if there was a dry mix or some sort of polymetric that would make it watertight as it would be less cost and less standing around brushing all day to clean it - i dont think there is what i want out there so i think i will go with - a bag of resin cement and some nice sand mixed and just brush that in oh and possibly seal it as well if i find sealer at a price for off the street people and not the price a Local Authority would pay.
I hope thats paints better picture
Posted: Thu Jan 20, 2011 7:57 pm
by jonnyboyentire
Waternot, with respect to you, just crack on with the job your way. It's your choice whether to listen to advice or not after all.
Concrete pavers, concrete slabs on a 10mm bed of mortar? It's been said before, by the gaffer and a pro, a failure in waiting.
Send us some pictures afterwards 
Posted: Thu Jan 20, 2011 10:54 pm
by lutonlagerlout
that clarifies it a bit ,and i wish you all the best but it sounds like you are making an easy job hard to save money
which in some cases is understandable :;):
I would forget about joints entirelyand just lay the concrete block paving as you would normally but lay it on a screeded 4:1 grit sand cement dry mix,
do not put any water in this mix
only screed what you can lay and cut in in a day
instarmac do a joint sealer so once your blocks are laid and the sand freshly swept in then you can use their joint stabiliser to try and keep it in
the screed must be spot on as you cant really wack these blocks once in
THIS IS A DIDDLE AND FAKE IT SOLUTION
good luck
LLL