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Posted: Fri May 01, 2015 3:40 pm
by jamie9090
Hi,
I was wondering if anyone can advise on making a restraining hump at the threshold of a gravel drive to stop the gravel escaping onto the road. This is advised on the gravel page of the main site (with stone setts in the example) but I can’t see any details on how to do this.
I’m thinking of making the hump using block pavers (3 rows deep) … my plan was to use 100mm of lean mix concrete laid in a slight hump profile then bed the pavers onto this and then joint with mortar. Will that be ok and will the pavers stick to the concrete bedding layer ok? I’m slightly worried they may be loose. Also will this provide enough support for a car driving over every day?
Thanks very much in advance,
Jamie
Posted: Sat May 02, 2015 7:14 am
by seanandruby
Jamie, go to main index scroll down to setts rigid construction and you will find what your looking for m8. Can't direct you there on my phone. Any more QS just ask, good luck.
Posted: Sat May 02, 2015 7:53 am
by jamie9090
Thanks for getting back to me. Yeh, it was the setts page on the main site that game me the idea of using 100mm of lean mix but I am planning on using block pavers rather than setts so didn't know if it was the same. It's just that on the block paving pages it says that edge courses that will be trafficked a lot should have a base of stronger concrete (? C20) and then bedded onto this with mortar.
... because what im doing is slightly different to either of the applications on these pages I wasn't sure what was best??
Posted: Sat May 02, 2015 9:48 am
by seanandruby
Posted: Sat May 02, 2015 11:08 am
by jamie9090
Yeh, that was the page that said about using c20 (4.2.1 mix for trafficked areas) but can I bed the pavers directly onto the concrete or should I use a mortar bedding layer in between?
Posted: Sat May 02, 2015 8:40 pm
by sy76uk
I'd go 150mm for a border type construction for a retaining edge that will be driven over and you can bed them straight on semi dry but make sure you haunch half way up the block on the gravel side.
Posted: Sun May 03, 2015 8:16 am
by jamie9090
That's perfect, thanks! Just to clarify. ..would you use c20/4.2.1 mix then rather than lean mix?
Posted: Sun May 03, 2015 9:49 am
by seanandruby
C20 with a 100ml haunching.
Posted: Sun May 03, 2015 4:26 pm
by jamie9090
Ok, will try that. Cheers!
Posted: Sun May 03, 2015 6:19 pm
by sy76uk
One more word of advice, The mix needs to be stiff. Wet enough for the blocks to stick to the mix but dry enough to hold its shape.
Posted: Sun May 10, 2015 7:15 am
by jamie9090
I have just completed the hump yesterday using your suggestions and it seems to have gone ok, thanks for the advice!
I am now slightly worried about doing the pointing work though ... the rigid block paving page suggests pointing with sbr enhanced mortar but the gaps seem too small to be able to pack much mortar in. Will another method ... e.g. wet grouting be better? And how can I make the mortar strong enough if so as presumably I wouldn't be able to use sbr?
Posted: Sun May 10, 2015 10:21 am
by mickg
use one of the polymeric resin products like Marshalls Weatherpoint 365 or GFTK instead of a traditional sand and cement mix
its much quicker and can be forced to the bottom of each of the joints with a hose pipe lightly sprayed onto the surface of the paving then top up the joints, leave to dry for approx 30minutes then remove any excess from the surface of the paving with a brush sweeping at a 45 degree angle to the joints
it can be applied in all weathers including the rain
Posted: Sun May 10, 2015 11:13 am
by jamie9090
That sounds like a good option. Is Marshalls Weatherpoint 365 ok to use if this is going to be trafficked then? I can only see it mentioned in patios
Posted: Sun May 10, 2015 12:03 pm
by mickg
we use it on our Fairstone driveways with no issues
