Page 1 of 2

Posted: Tue Sep 28, 2010 10:07 am
by simonseismic
I am having a 47sqm block paved drive installed in front of the house. The drive has been to planning (I needed planning anyway for a front porch) and passed on the basis that it will be permeable system. I am in Stockport, so no doubt the ground has plenty of clay.

Our installer has given us a Plaspave catalogue and we are thinking of using the Sorrento PERKi8 tumbled setts. Having read Tonys discussion and description of the manufacture of blocks I wanted to make sure these blocks are the best option for my drive, since I do not want to cut corners on the choice of materials. So, I have the following questions:

1) Are the blocks by this company to BS6717 (cannot see any mention in either their catalogue or web site)?
2) Are the blocks made from the best quality dye that will have the better resistance to fading?
3) Are the PERMi8 permeable blocks significantly more expensive than the equivalent normal block?
4) If these blocks do not comply with 1 & 2 what blocks should I be looking at.
5) Alternatively, should I put in a soakaway and use normal blocks

Finally, great site, full of useful info and very funny at times

Simon

Posted: Tue Sep 28, 2010 1:09 pm
by lutonlagerlout
most contractors i have spoken to reckon permeable doubles the cost of a drive overall
adding an linear drain and soakaway adds about 10-15%
permeable paving has not taken off in any way shape or form in this country and the only places you are likely to encounter it are public buildings that are funded by heritage or lottery money
hope this helps
LLL

Posted: Tue Sep 28, 2010 8:51 pm
by mickg
1) Are the blocks by this company to BS6717 (cannot see any mention in either their catalogue or web site)?
yes

2) Are the blocks made from the best quality dye that will have the better resistance to fading?
yes

3) Are the PERMi8 permeable blocks significantly more expensive than the equivalent normal block?
yes

4) If these blocks do not comply with 1 & 2 what blocks should I be looking at.
the final decision is yours but conventional block paving installed with drainage channels connected to a soak away works better for the customer because I dare say your not aware of the maintenance required 3 - 4 times a year with permeable block paving plus the fact you can't wash your car on a permeable driveway

5) Alternatively, should I put in a soak away and use normal blocks
yes

Posted: Tue Oct 05, 2010 5:48 pm
by simonseismic
mickg,

Thanks for the succinct answers. I have been thinking about these for a while, I just hope I asked the right questions!

lutonlagerlout

Thanks for the advice/information.

All in all very helpful and clarifies that I need to go the soakaway route to comply with the requirements of limiting runoff.

Posted: Tue Oct 05, 2010 8:19 pm
by mickg
here you go

1:
at the bottom of the page

All Plaspave Concrete Block Paving products are manufactured to meet BS6717 2001 and under Quality Assurance BS EN ISO 9002.

2:
give plaspave a ring to get confirmation on the dye being resistant to fading, I have never had any problems but give them a ring to put your mind at rest
0151 423 1161

3:
PERMi8 permeable blocks along with other block paving manufacturers permeable block paving is nearly twice the cost to install than conventional block paving, the sub base is totally different as you use 20mm clean stone and not MOT type 1, the laying coarse is 6mm clean stone and not M grade grit sand and you need to dig to a total depth of 305mm so there is aditional cost to remove the earth

before you start any work you need to do a soil test to see if the ground within your property is permeable, dig a hole 400 x 400 x 400 deep...fill with water and if the water disappears within 18 hours the ground permeable, it may disappear straight away which is better but if not then you have no choice but to install conventional block paving anyway

4:
already answered the question

5:
yes you should install a soak a way and lay conventional block paving

is that better ???

Posted: Tue Oct 05, 2010 9:37 pm
by GB_Groundworks
i dont think succinct has a negative connotation does it?

suc·cinct/səkˈsiNGkt/
Adjective: (esp. of something written or spoken) Briefly and clearly expressed.

Posted: Tue Oct 05, 2010 9:51 pm
by mickg
I think your right Giles but I couldn't decide if he was being sarcastic hence why I posted more :D

Posted: Tue Oct 05, 2010 10:47 pm
by London Stone Paving
Why can't you wash your car on a permeable driveway?

Posted: Tue Oct 05, 2010 11:00 pm
by mickg
because over time the dirt and grime from the car will be washed down into the 6mm laying course and the clean 20mm stone sub base and block the voids what hold the water until it drains into the surrounding ground so the permeable block paving will cease to work efficiently

Posted: Wed Oct 06, 2010 2:47 am
by lutonlagerlout
a little bird told me that even when permeable paving is 90% blocked it still works acceptably
definition : little bird ===> the gaffer
LLL :)

Posted: Wed Oct 06, 2010 7:34 am
by mickg
one can only quote what one was advised on the Marshall's permeable paving course :)

>>>>90% blocked it still works acceptably
could you ask your little bird for the calculations for that because if that was the case you could get away with 40mm of clean stone instead of having to lay 200mm ???

Posted: Wed Oct 06, 2010 3:36 pm
by lutonlagerlout
sorry i meant the grit layer that fills the gaps between the block
my fear has always been that permeable paving will be full of algae after 6 months( the joints that is) but apparently even when these are nearly full of crap it still works well

I dont doubt Marshall's advice, but they are in the selling of paving game
independent technical analysis is what I look for (or what you lot tell me)
cheers LLL

Posted: Wed Oct 06, 2010 6:51 pm
by mickg
thats why permeable paving needs to be maintained 3 - 4 times a year to remove any algae or moss that may start to build up in the joints

Posted: Thu Oct 07, 2010 6:35 am
by pickwell paving
have you done a permeable drive mick? we've priced quite a few but as LLL said they work out so expensive. Heard so many rules bout them like your car wash one, finished paving level must be 600mm above top of footing, can't do it if there are services buried in the drive which is nearly every domestic drive, musn't slope towards road at all, no down pipes must drain onto them or footings must be covered with a dpm and slope away from the house don't know which are true and which are manufacturers covering there backs.

Posted: Thu Oct 07, 2010 4:25 pm
by lutonlagerlout
i have priced 3 but they came out double the normal
the only installations i have seen is on civic or commercial work
LLL
PS saw a guy doing some the other week, he said its murder getting hold of 2-3 tonnes of 6mm granite chippings at a decent price, also he showed me the bands on the blocks and they were 3 years old
the expected surge in demand since 2008 has not materialised




Edited By lutonlagerlout on 1286465217