The Brew Cabin

Posted: **Fri Jun 15, 2007 9:48 pm**

Hi

Hopefully somebody could give me a quick response on this as the plan is to start tomorrow morning!!

A simple question but one I can't see covered elsewhere. When laying the above should the spacers on the end of the blocks be interlocking or butted up to eah other?

Many thanks in anticipation of a swift response

Posted: **Sun Jun 17, 2007 10:19 am**

spacers should not touch each other

regards

matthew
drivewaycompany.co.uk

Posted: **Sun Jun 17, 2007 12:06 pm**

They should interlock, not abut.

You'd be surprised how many so-called professional block layers are unaware of this issue. In one recent "encounter" where I pointed out this error for future reference, the 22 year-old block layer called me a "effing picky bar steward" for insisting that spacer lugs should not align. Naturally, with him being 22 and bursting with testosterone, he knows all there is to know about block laying, and far more than I could ever possibly hope to know.

So I made them lift and re-lay the lot!

Hopefully, he's learned summat new.

Posted: **Mon Jun 18, 2007 9:34 pm**

Thanks guys

Posted: **Wed Aug 01, 2007 10:04 pm**

Following the above instructions I managed (what I consider) quite a professional job. It looked great....'looked' being the operative word as the recent rains managed to wash out all my jointing sand. The bottom of the drive now looks similar to a Barbados beach!! Note drive is 1:5!

I realise I need some kind of sealant to sort this out, but after reading everything I can on this site I have a few questions -

1/ Am I right in thinking that after brushing/vibrating in the jointing sand then it should be left for 8-12 weeks before sealing? With our present climate I'm not sure it would last that long!

2/ From my research of the archive it seems my best bet may be a Resiblock product. I wonder if anyone has now seen a how my blocks would look as it appears previously nobody had seen this product on Marshalls Tegula - QUOTE

Block Sealing - Mr Block - Feb 18th 2003
I have a drive recently block paved with Marshalls Tegula Penant Grey blocks. I prefer the darker colour of these blocks when they are wet. I was wondering if I should use Resiblock Superior sealant to protect the blocks and perhaps give me a darker colour when they are dry. However the Marshalls technical department say that they do not recommend any sealants because of the uneven sealant wear caused by car tyres.
Any views on the this wear aspect, and will the Resiblock Superior darken the penant grey blocks?

Tony McCormack
Feb 19th 2003
Marshalls are correct in what they say about wear on the sealant, especially on those driveways where you access the same spot day after day after day, creating two parallel tracks, but it's relatively simple to re-apply the sealant if the wear becomes very noticeable. It's also worth noting that Resiblock Superior is one of the best sealants in the world, and not as prone to wear as some of the acrylic sealants. I reckon, judging from experience with this sealant, that you should get at least a couple of years before you start to notice any difference in wear.
If I were you, I'd do it.

Mr Block
Mar 4th 2003 Thanks for the advice Tony.
Since the blocks have only just been put down I have a few months to think about it!

It might make up my mind if I could see a Marshalls tegula type block drive that has been treated with Resiblock Superior and that has been down for a year or two. Does anyone know of one, preferably in my area, South Northamptonshire?

Tony McCormack
Mar 4th 2003 Have you asked Resiblock? They might know where their products have been used on a commercial project in your area.
Mr Block
Mar 4th 2003 Resiblock said that some McDonalds had been done, but they could not be specific about which ones. Otherwise they suggested I contact block paving contractors in my area.
Tony McCormack
Mar 4th 2003 Most of the MackieD's are done with PIC, not with Tegula Pennant Grey. It's some kind of 'corporate architecture' hangover from their spiritual home in the US.
Well, if Resiblock don't have any contact details, then all you can do is ask around the local contractors, or call in at your local BMs to see if they sell the Resiblock and, if they do, who they sell it to - that might get you somewhere.

I had a look through my photo library but I don't have a single piccie of any form of Tegula or Drivesett that's been treated with a sealant. Odder still, I don't ever remember seeing a Tegula Pavement that's been sealed, or I would have tried to get a photo, if only for my own interest.

Mr Block
Mar 4th 2003 Thanks for the prompt replies Tony.
The contractor who put my blocks down said he would be interested to see the results of sealing too.

Incidentally, Resiblock recommended a first coat of 22 applied with a squeegee, followed by a coat of Superior, to reduce the chance of sand "pick-up" with this type of block.

I will do as you suggest starting with with the BMs.

Many thanks for any advise you can provide

Posted: **Thu Aug 02, 2007 9:33 am**

Babyduck,

Can you kindly provide a picture of your drive ?
It would be nice to see the finished work..

Posted: **Fri Aug 03, 2007 9:25 pm**

Use a jointing stabiliser, such as Keybond or Oscrete to 'bind' the jointing sand for now. That should be sufficient to control the loss of jointing for a few weeks while the blocks weather-in, and then, come the end of September, you can look at using a sealant to both seal the blocks and permanently fix the jointing.

Posted: **Sat Aug 04, 2007 12:58 pm**

Cool thanks for the tip

Posted: **Sun Aug 05, 2007 9:43 pm**

I went to B&Q today but they didn't have any 'Keybond' or 'Oscrete' jointing stabiliser they only had general sealants, any idea where I can pick some up please?

Posted: **Sun Aug 05, 2007 9:58 pm**

Try a proper builder's merchants such as Buildbase, Build Center or Jewsons.

They will probably be able to get it for the next day if they do not have any in stock.

Posted: **Sat Aug 11, 2007 5:25 pm**

B&Q are a waste of time for anything other than cement. They don't stock mortar dye; they don't stock proper sealants (just that Thomson's Drive and Patio Despoiler rubbish); they don't stock joint stabilisers; they don't stock decent spades; they don't stock....you get the picture.

You need a real BM, but if there are none locally, Travis Bloody Perkins or Sodding Jewsons will have to do. There's a chance one of these will stock Keybond: Oscrete stabiliser is harder to source, but is used in NI and Scotland.

Posted: **Mon Aug 13, 2007 2:31 pm**

BM's are funny (or maybe I mean annoying). They think they're great value, but I suspect that unless you're a builder with an account, who's ordering large amounts it seems like they use their rip-off price list. I got some T&G chipboard flooring once and the BM employee opined that 'yeah, we're better value than the big DIY stores, but people don't tend to use us for some reason'. I didn't have the heart to tell the guy that their price was more expensive than B&Q (BnQ were out of stock).
Also, in my experience, some BMs employees treat civilians like an irritating distraction.
Most recently I was ordering some MOT type 1 for this path I'm doing and in passing asked them what they charged for bits of bradstone carpetstone. The price was much higher than B&Q, and the guy was incredulous when I let him know this!

Anyway, that's all irrelevant to the issue of B&Q not stocking a range of products, but I wanted to vent.

Posted: **Mon Aug 13, 2007 6:24 pm**

You're not alone. And unless you know them, some of them treat you like that when you're in the trade as well. There must be an agency out there which specialises in miserable and unhelpful people. Jewsons get most of their output, around here anyway.

I reckon B&Q and Wickes often have better prices on popular items than most bm's. But have you tried going to either for a bulk bag? Be prepared for 30 minutes of waiting for them to find the fork lift driver and four banksmen! All that to save a couple of quid!

However, there is a firm called Meakin that has a few branches around this area and they are very good. The guys in the shop are helpful and approachable and the yard lads come in to hear what you want and then rush off to get it sorted while you're doing the paperwork. By the time you come out they're already at your van with half the stuff. Excellent.

Posted: **Mon Aug 13, 2007 6:58 pm**

i don't even ask people to serve me in BMs unless its a lot of gear ,i just pull up and load it myself
10/10 for butterfields in luton for having helpful staff
and minus 1,000,000 out of 10 for all the others ,who seem only to employ idiot savants or sociopaths
cheers LLL

Posted: **Mon Jul 05, 2010 6:21 pm**

Here I am back 3 years later!! You'll be pleased to hear that the jointing eventually settled in nicely and has refused to wash out since.

The original drive was a bit of a rush job, so we could get the car off the road before the council stuck down a yellow line. After much nagging from the wife I'm now intent on extending the drive a few more metres.

I need to add approx 15sqm and have about 6sqm of blocks left from the original job. My memory is poor but from the subject title I see I described my blocks as (Marshalls) tegula drivesett. I also managed to find my invoice where they are described as Drivesett 50 Paving (Harvest Buff). Well I had a good search for them without luck so eventually rang Marshalls only to discover they are a discontinued line....agh

!!!

I was advised the Drivesett Tegula (Harvest) was the replacement and would be a best match (I realise even if they still made the Drivesett 50 that there would be a difference in colour). However when I went to look at this block it seemed to be pretty much one yellowy colour, whereas my original blocks were predominantly yellow but with plenty of pinky/purpley blocks thrown in. Does anyone have any idea if this Harvest colour would be the best match or whether I could use a bit of a combination of say Harvest, Traditional and maybe even one of the Duo colours to get a better match? Infact is it possible to mix the two types?

Once I've got my blocks I will then need to extend. Is there anywhere on this site that someone could direct me to that advises how best to extend?

I'm obviously going to have to take down the temporary wall at the end that is holding everything in place, but wonder should I strip back a few rows to help tie everything in? Will everything remain in place whilst I'm putting down and whackering the sub-base?

Any advise would be greatly appreciated.

The Brew Cabin

Laying tegula drivesett - Help!!!