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Posted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 8:14 pm
by mikomi
Hi,
I had part of my garden landscaped by an unprofessional landscaper, so now wary, I'm trying to put together a reasonable specification for a new landscaper I hope to employ to do the rest of the work.

The design is quite complicated: natural stone slabs surrounded by clay pavers in a repeating pattern; a circle kit of natural stone over a manhole cover surrounded by radial clay pavers; and a large patio of natural stone slabs with clay paver detailing around the inner edge.

Below is the spec I've written for the paving with brick detailing. I wasn't sure how much excavating it was essential or reasonable to request, or how to specify the amount of sand/cement mixture that needs to go under the bricks and slabs above the sub-base - but as it's only a patio and path (which doesn't carry much weight) I haven't gone for the full monty. I was confused about whether the bricks need to be pointed as well as the slabs - hoping they wouldn't because of the cost of all that pointing! (The slabs are 30mm thick and the clay pavers are 50mm deep).

Paving with brick detailing: Excavate to reduced depth of at least 175mm below finished level (325mm below dpc) and remove spoil, in areas shown on the attached scale plan. Excavate any soft spots in sub-grade as required and dispose. Supply, lay and compact minimum of 100mm of DTp1 crushed stone sub-base material to falls and levels. Supply and lay in areas shown on the plan 25mm zone 2 sand bed, 200x100x50mm clay pavers to falls and levels. Include all cuts and sealing of joints with silica jointing sand. Blocks to be Blockleys Hadley Red Mixture or Chelmer Valley Riviera. Supply and lay on 45mm grit sand/cement bed, Stonemarket Trustone Glenmoor slabs in sizes indicated on plan. Point joints with sand and resin mortar. Where the bricks/slabs meet the house or garage walls, ensure brick and slab paving slopes away from the walls to avoid rain water pooling against the walls. Clear site of all debris and rubble on completion and make good.

Is this good enough? Do the bricks need to be pointed as well as the slabs? Have I asked for the right amount of sand/cement bedding?
Any comments gratefully received.

m

Posted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 8:35 pm
by Dave_L
Personally, I think you'd scare off a good proportion of contractors with that spec!

Posted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 8:57 am
by Rich H
As a spec it's ok if a little too prescriptive. A good contractor should, in his or her quote, described the sub-base and bedding course to be put down - and this is one way that you can sort the wheat from the chaff.

I lay slabs on a 4:1 mix. I know people that lay on a 10:1 mix. Both are ok for patios but I wouldn't want a customer who's not in the trade to tell me how to knock up a mix.

You've specified resin pointing but why? It's lovely and quick but also costly. Mortar might be a cheaper alternative for the contractor.

Concerning the clay pavers; they are blocks not bricks. Depending on the design, you would normally use kiln dried (block paving) sand to joint them.

Posted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 9:46 am
by Tony McC
I recognise the spec, because I wrote most of it, and it was adapted from the type of spec we used before NBS became as widely used as it is today for commercial projects.

I think it's clear and straightforward. I agree with Dave that it will scare off a numbver of contractors, but that is a plus, as those scared-off are inevitably the ones that do not or can not work to that spec, and prefer to use their own corner-cutting spec.

As Rich mentions, the "sand and resin" jointing is confusing. If you want the flagstones pointed with a polymeric mortar, then state so, and name the polymerics that would be acceptable otherwise you risk being let down by the god-awful GeoFix or one of the mediocre alternatives being touted by some paving manufacturers.

Other than that, I would advise that you use separate paragraphs for each item, for the sake of clarity.

Posted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 7:24 pm
by mikomi
Thank you all for taking the time to reply, I'll have a little think before I decide what to do. Thanks again.
m

Posted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 8:22 pm
by Dave_L
It wouldn't scare me off (as we do the job properly and often over-the-top) but it would set alarm bells ringing that the customer could well become a right pain in the ass, as all so often, customers can become instant [often misguided] experts, which, in turn, becomes a right pain in the arse!!

Posted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 8:45 pm
by williams
Spec sounds about right to me.

Personally i would await their spec and see how well it fits against yours, as said it will seperate the good from the ugly.

I,ve seen a fair few 'specs' which say 'block pave drive,all cuts diamond cut'. So i would request a spec too as some simply don't give it (more fool them and the customer imo).

Posted: Thu Jul 17, 2008 9:08 am
by warnergrounds.co.uk
Hi Mikomi

We are based just down the road from you in Berkshire and would be happy to give you a tender when you are at that stage.

We use the NCC range of polymerics in our jointing unless otherwise specified by the customer.

We are doing a Glenmoor job over in Marlow at the beginning of next month so could speak to our customer to see whether you could have a site tour on completion.

Let me know if that's of interest

Regards



Lara Warner
Warner Grounds

Posted: Thu Jul 17, 2008 10:56 am
by Tony McC
I read summat in the trade press last week about a court ruling in Australia that allows builders to 'down tools' and walk off a job if they are persistently harassed by what was termed "back seat builders". :D

Posted: Thu Jul 17, 2008 1:28 pm
by ambient
think ill pack up and head for australia

Posted: Thu Jul 17, 2008 1:43 pm
by James.Q
sounds like a plan lets pack