Mot1 - costs

[delldiamond]

Just starting out on my first patio - looking at 18m2. I know - we all have to start some where.

Where's the best and cheapest place to get MOT1 - figure I will need about 2 to 3 tonnes? i live in the Southampton area.

[Rich H]

Phone around your local builders merchants. Type 1 stone is more expensive than Type 1 crushed but the latter is fine for a patio, you just need to check with them that it is 'clean', i.e. no rags, twigs, big lumps, etc.

If you want stone, consider if you want it loose or bagged. In bags, it's considerably more, and you only get 875kg or so. For 18m2, 2t ought to be enough, unless your subgrade is soft or particularly inconsistent.

Alternatively, if it works for you, get a skip delivered with 2t of 'scalpings' in it.

[williams]

i work on one tonne does 3 sq meters at 6" and 1 tonne does 5sq m at 4" so you will probably need 3.5 tonne.
i stear clear of anything except mot......(fine to build up to the level where the base goes but i prefer not to use it as the base)

[Rich H]

Why do you need 4" for a patio?

[williams]

Why do you need 4" for a patio?

I thought the standard was 10" deep for drives with 6" base and 8" for patios with 4" base.

I just don't think that 2" is enough. I suppose 3" could be acceptable.

[Rich H]

The minimum depth of the sub-base has to do with the size of the stone in the Type 1. Therefore as it is 40mm max it should be double that or 80mm.

I'll probably get a slap on the wrist from the gaffer, but if the sub-grade is good enough I'd rather put down 50mm Type 1 and 50mm bedding course than 100mm bedding course.

The definitive prescriptions of sub-bases and bedding courses can all be found on the main site of course

[Tony McC]

100mm of bedding is NEVER right. In Rich's hypothetical scenario, I'd use 50-60mm of 20mm-to-dust and then 40mm of bed.

[williams]

so is using
100mm type 1
50mm sharp sand laying course
60mm block
not right then for a patio?

I have never heard of anything diffeent except for people laying on 2" of sub base

[Tony McC]

Yes: that spec is fine, although I'd cut the laying course to 40mm maximum.

[Slabba.]

Down ere in the darkest depths of cornwall: !! we pay about £13.00 per tonne for a 5t or more Type1 blue elvin hardcore, kin ard stuff. I know its quite alot more up country. Better to buy loose mind.
Williams your spot on with your depths mate. British standard depths depending on ground conditions of course!!. I too will only use type1 regardless of the area size. Its all about quality. If a customer would rather use a cowboy who uses inferior materials because they are cheaper, they deserve that sinkin feelin!!!!!

[Rich H]

For a domestic patio there's no reason to prescribe the same spec for all situations. Around here in Reading, most of the high ground is chalk and flint under very little soil. All of the Victorian houses are built straight onto this with no wall footings at all.

In this situation, I only take out the soil and any of the chalk which is uncompacted. Quite often this means that the bedding course goes straight onto this very solid sub-grade.

If I have to make up the level, I have no problem putting down less than 100mm of 20mm to dust crushed as a sub-base.

What's the point in taking out 200mm every time? Waste of time, fuel, materials and money.

[Dave_L]

Simply, it's all down to ground conditions. As Rich says, some areas have a far better sub-grade than others.

[Slabba.]

A simple answer about *why take out 200mm every time*.
Because your covered for any problems in the future. Of course if you hit solid ground before then common sense kicks in.

[williams]

Where i work (essex) the ground is ALWAYS crap clay,of course i,d have a result if i dig out and find chalk. Unfortunately for me thats yet to happen...