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Posted: Thu Dec 13, 2007 4:46 pm
by Sqwim
How do people rate block splitters? Or, more particularly, do they really provide a reasonable 'cut' or break?
Am planning on finally getting this drive finsihed this weekend after the biblical rain we've had recently and am about to order/hire either the block splitter or saw bench. Just wondering which people prefer?
The block splitter is far cheaper but I'm guessing the saw bench is far neater (but a lot more expensive). How neat are the 'splits' created by a block splitter? Will I notice when the drive is done?
Thanks in advance for any advice you have.
Sqwim
Posted: Thu Dec 13, 2007 5:35 pm
by Pablo
What type of blocks are you laying splitters work great on some and are useless on others.
Posted: Thu Dec 13, 2007 5:54 pm
by Sqwim
They are Brett 60mm Omega blocks.
Thanks
Posted: Thu Dec 13, 2007 5:59 pm
by lutonlagerlout
splitter works fine on these,just make sure you get one with a decent blade
and dont forget to undercut the blocks i.e. angle the block downwards on the side you want to keep
cheers LLL 
Posted: Thu Dec 13, 2007 6:49 pm
by Dave_L
Technique is key!
Posted: Fri Dec 14, 2007 2:00 pm
by Tony McC
Something I point out during the training days I run is the number of younger contractors that complain "these blocks are crap" when using a splitter to do the cutting-in. 9 times out of 10 it turns out that the blades on their splitter are worn to buggery and back again. Most block splitters work perfectly well as long as the blades are sharp and true, rather than blunt and bowed.
Another point to bear in mind is that, as of next spring, it will be considered "unacceptable" by the HSE to use a saw to cut any concrete paving material unless the saw is fitted with dust suppression equipment. We've another meeting about this new requirement on Tuesday of next week and I hope to be able to put something on the site over the holiday period.
Posted: Fri Dec 14, 2007 5:09 pm
by surreyhillslandscapes.com
There is quite a knack to using a splitter,but if your gonna hire one I would go for a probst if possible you might find you need to adjust the blades when your cut angle changes ( maybe half a turn or so on one end) I use a block splitter and cut the blocks slightly on the large side, even to the point when they might not quite fit, then run a disc cutter through the joint and the slightly larger one's will drop into place, it will give you a perfect 5mm joint and stops the block from splintering against the edging band during compaction.
Posted: Fri Dec 14, 2007 5:54 pm
by lutonlagerlout
also make sure and use half blocks and soldiers were necessary ,you dont really want any cut less than a third of a block ,really a half and definitely no darts
cheers LLL
Posted: Fri Dec 14, 2007 7:09 pm
by Sqwim
Thanks folks. As it happens I couldn't get hold of a saw bench anyway so have hired a block splitter (only HSS then went and gave it to someone else earlier today so I'll have to waste 40 minutes of precious daylight collecting one from elsewhere tomorrow!).
How do I know if the blade is sharp/decent? Having never used one before I don't know how sharp they are supposed to be! They can't be that sharp to start with as they'd blunt too easily on the blocks surely? What do I look for?
Also (being cheeky now) they didn't have any mats for cushioning the blocks from the whacker plate either. Should I insist on one of these and waste more daylight trying to find one tomorrow or can I get away with something else? A dust cover folded a number of times I'm thinking perhaps?
Many thanks
Posted: Fri Dec 14, 2007 8:34 pm
by Pablo
Take some blocks to the hire shop with you and test it. If it's a good clean cut then jobs a good un. Don't really need a mat on your plate for standard concrete blocks.
Posted: Sat Dec 15, 2007 9:37 am
by Dave_L
Spread your kiln dried around loosely before whacking it - the sand acts as a 'sort of' cushion.