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Posted: Fri Aug 17, 2007 9:30 am
by far2gud
Hi All
As the topic suggests I need some help with how to go about about cleaning my driveway. The driveway laid like this one Here
But has grey brick also
I have been doing a little reading and have come here for advice to check whether I am on the right track. Here are the steps I think I should be carrying out.
1) Pick weeds and brush out with clear patio cleaner
2) Powerwash Drive (wondering if brushhead or spray better?)
3) Seal with kiln sand
4) Lay pathclear to to prevent weeds
Thanks in Advance for the help, the driveway is about 5years old and I really want to the best job possible so any advice is appreciated.
Tony
Posted: Fri Aug 17, 2007 9:46 am
by steve r
Have a read of this page http://www.pavingexpert.com/maintain.htm
all will be revealed
Posted: Fri Aug 17, 2007 12:02 pm
by far2gud
Cheers Steve,
Thanks for pointing me in the right direction
T 
Posted: Fri Aug 17, 2007 2:55 pm
by far2gud
Really is some great information there, I am considering using resiblock after the driveway had been cleaned.
Anyone have any opinions on the product?
Thanks Again
Posted: Fri Aug 17, 2007 3:06 pm
by RAPressureWashing
far2gud wrote:Hi All
As the topic suggests I need some help with how to go about about cleaning my driveway. The driveway laid like this one Here
But has grey brick also
I have been doing a little reading and have come here for advice to check whether I am on the right track. Here are the steps I think I should be carrying out.
1) Pick weeds and brush out with clear patio cleaner
2) Powerwash Drive (wondering if brushhead or spray better?)
3) Seal with kiln sand
4) Lay pathclear to to prevent weeds
Thanks in Advance for the help, the driveway is about 5years old and I really want to the best job possible so any advice is appreciated.
Tony
Hello Tony,
This is how I would do it,
Yes pick the weeds first or if you have the time, get some Round-up weed killer, and apply say five days before you intend to clean the drive, this should kill off most of the weeds etc.
To wash, best using a flat surface cleaner (what machine will you be using?) to get the grime up etc, I then use a turbo lance to remove any subborn dirt etc. Allow 24-48 hours to dry out weather permitting, then re-sand with Kiln dried, job done.
I actually chemical wash all my paving surfaces etc, but use my own mixes so if you are going to use an "off the shelf" cleaner etc, I can't comment how good they are.
As for sealing the drive with Resiblock, yes it is very good, expensive but most proberbly about the best around. I'm also on Resiblocks live contractor list so if you are going to use it and you need any help, let me know and I'll do my best to help you.
Good Luck
Posted: Fri Aug 17, 2007 4:18 pm
by far2gud
Cheers Roger
I was reading in the guide that chemicals are bad for the brickwork? anyone else like to comment on this? I will be renting the equipment and want to keep the cost down so don't want to go too mad and rentmultiple machines.
I will probably just rent a standard petrol machine from a local dealer and use it wit reyes. Would you know a source for resiblock in the Republic Of Ireland?
cant seem to fond any 
Posted: Fri Aug 17, 2007 6:18 pm
by lutonlagerlout
the problem with sealants on concrete products is that it stops the concrete breathing ,and that can cause problems of its own
efflorescence being one
however as concrete block paving tends to fade quite quickly keeping it sealed keeps the appearance good for a lot longer
cheers LLL
Posted: Fri Aug 17, 2007 7:18 pm
by RAPressureWashing
Tony,
I don't know about ROI but here is Resiblock's web link
www.resiblock.com
Might be worth contacting them to see who stocks their products in ROI.
Posted: Sat Aug 18, 2007 5:19 pm
by far2gud
Thanks for your help everyone,
I Spent all morning removing moss from the driveway using a paint scraper!! well hard work by the way. After cleaning up the debris I am going to brush in some Jeyes fluid disinfectant before power washing, laying roundup and finally brushing in the kiln.
I have noticed jeyes fluid contains tar acid, is this okay to apply? (just wondering as the guide says acids may discolour brickwork)
I will post up some before and after pictures for anyone who might be in a similar position
Thanks Again
Tony
Posted: Sun Aug 19, 2007 10:01 am
by RAPressureWashing
Hi Tony,
Here are some before & after photos of a drive I cleaned & resanded this week. The washing took 1.5 hours, resanding 1 hour.
As far as the Jeyes goes I personally don't use it.
Posted: Sat Aug 25, 2007 1:58 pm
by Tony McC
Jeyes or Armillatox is OK for use on most concrete and clay paving. I have reservations about their use on some porous limestones and travertines as there sometimnes seems to be some discolouration.
Resiblock in RoI - there used to be a distributor in Dublin, but as Resiblock don't bother talking to me any longer, I'm not sure what the latest situation might be.
I was in Woodies near the Mad Cow roundabout last Wednesday and didn't notice any specialist block/concrete sealants other than that awful crap from Thomsons, which should be avoided whenever possible. However, I'll see what I can find out about suppliers and stockists next week.
Posted: Sat Aug 25, 2007 8:15 pm
by lutonlagerlout
R&A Pressure Washing wrote:Hi Tony,
Here are some before & after photos of a drive I cleaned & resanded this week. The washing took 1.5 hours, resanding 1 hour.
As far as the Jeyes goes I personally don't use it.
did you have to leave it a day or so to dry our roger?
nice tidy work BTW
LLL
Posted: Tue Aug 28, 2007 4:13 pm
by RAPressureWashing
lutonlagerlout wrote:did you have to leave it a day or so to dry our roger?
nice tidy work BTW
LLL
LLL
I left the paving for 48 hours to completley dry. If it had rained in that time then the clock starts again. Some folk seem to think if the top surface is dry then that's it, but in my view you need the joins to be as dry as possible before re-sanding so if it is dry for 48 hours then you are usually ok.
Posted: Tue Aug 28, 2007 7:50 pm
by Tony McC
There are techniques that can be used to achieve effective jointing or re-jointing when the surface is damp/wet. Moisture need not be a problem for re-jointing. However, moisture and sealants is a BIG no-no - the two just don't get on, and some sealants are worse than others. Thomsons Patio Ruiner seems to be worse than any other - you've been warned!
So: while it's perfectly possible to re-sand a damp drive, it's really not a good idea to seal unless the paving is as close to bone dry as physically possible.
Posted: Wed Aug 29, 2007 6:39 pm
by RAPressureWashing
Tony McC wrote:There are techniques that can be used to achieve effective jointing or re-jointing when the surface is damp/wet. Moisture need not be a problem for re-jointing. However, moisture and sealants is a BIG no-no - the two just don't get on, and some sealants are worse than others. Thomsons Patio Ruiner seems to be worse than any other - you've been warned!
So: while it's perfectly possible to re-sand a damp drive, it's really not a good idea to seal unless the paving is as close to bone dry as physically possible.
Tony, don't you find that if the surface is damp the sand just does not "flow" as it should and clogs up a bit?
Totally agree with the sealer statement, if it's damp don't seal.
