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Posted: Sat Jun 16, 2007 5:43 pm
by PhilHooton
We have decided to resurface our driveway, but are undecided as to whether to have the driveway block paved or tarmaced. We have a bad problem with weeds mainly Horsetail(which we dont want to see anymore!) and also park 2 cars on the driveway which are quite heavy. Which do you suggest would be the best surface,why? and what harcore depths would you consider to be suitable?
We originally wanted tarmac but have been told that block paving may be a better option but unsure if this is to get the price up.
Any guidance would be much appreciated?
Posted: Sat Jun 16, 2007 7:35 pm
by Stuarty
horse tail is quite a tough weed to get rid of, a good dosing of either glyphosate or sodium chlorate should kill it off, but it might take 2 or 3 applications. For a drive i use no less 150mm of hardcore. The surface choice is entirely up to yourselves, its all personal preference. Get a few quotes for both and see where that leads 
Posted: Sat Jun 16, 2007 8:15 pm
by Dave_L
Of course I would say tarmac........:rock:
Posted: Sun Jun 17, 2007 12:02 pm
by Tony McC
The pros and cons of each are summarised on the main website.
It's impossible to make a blanket statement that one is always better than the other. For some projects, blocks would be most appropriate, while for others, the blacktop would win out. Horses for courses, as they say.
As for the Equisetum, that bugger will come up through both blocks and mac, so you need to ensure anti-weed measures are taken during construction. The most effective strategy for this type of weed is to saturate the sub-grade at formation level with Sodium Chlorate and then lay a tough geo-textile (NOT a useless weed membrane) over the entire area. I'd recommend Terram BuildA, as it is readily available in smaller quantities. Plantex/Mypex an their ilk are too weak and will be penetrated by the Equisetum.
However, even this strategy isn't foolproof and you may well find that the damned Mare's Tails start coming up at the edges of the geo-textile. The roots will travel along horizontally, beneath the membrane, until the come to the edge whereupon they set off skywards and emerge as though nothing had happened. If this is within a lawn or garden area, then it's not too bad, but it can be a problem when it happens at the interface with a vertical structure, such as a wall or fence.
Posted: Sun Jun 17, 2007 9:34 pm
by Pablo
Killing marestail is all about timing using a glyphos type killer on it during the growing season only burns it down to ground level so it quickly recovers and developes a tolerance to it making it even harder to kill. The best time of year to treat it is in the autumn when its in regression. The theory is that being a perenial plant it draws all the goodness back out of its foliage into its root system ready for use next year. It will draw the chemical along with the nutrients deep down and kill itself. We use a product called Agritox 50 diluted 4 parts water 1 part chemical. Its usually very effective and only sometimes requires a second hit in the spring. You will only find it in an Agricultural suppliers they use it for killing weeds in pasture land. It works wonders on your lawn at a lower solution as it doesn't kill grass. No excuses for a crap lawn anymore.
Posted: Mon Jun 18, 2007 11:46 am
by Tony McC
Do you need a licence to use it, Pablo?
Posted: Mon Jun 18, 2007 7:02 pm
by Pablo
Technically yes you need 'PA 1-6' to apply any chemical even Glyphos but who bothers and who checks up. I put 4 lads through it last year and we never get asked for a certificate or card when we go on site or buy any chemicals. Would always recommend keeping skin and face protected. They reckon glyphos has links to impotance. Not worth the risk even if it isn't true. 15 Ltrs costs about £25 +vat