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Posted: Tue May 31, 2005 4:19 am
by jrozycki
On the setting out a herringbone pattern page, http://www.pavingexpert.com/howto45.htm
there is a diagram that shows setting the first blocks at 215mm for minimizing wastage. Why not cut the block through its center at a 45 degree to produce to equal halves? I am doing a path and planned to use the other half on the other edge and would not have any waste. The thing I do realize is that the chevron's would not be symetrical at the edges.

Posted: Tue May 31, 2005 10:50 am
by Tony McC
Not all projects have dimensions that suit equal cuts to each side: in fact, it would be the minority of jobs that work out that way.

Further, if you undercut the blocks as recommended, the off-cut "half" is larger at the base than at the surface, and so wouldn't give a tight joint at the edge.

Posted: Tue May 31, 2005 1:44 pm
by jrozycki
I am using the nail down edging :( so I can adjust both edges to suit.
I just bought a diamond blade wet saw for cutting block upto 87 mm thick. So, even with a saw you don't cut all the way through? I thought the undercut was only if I was using a mechanical splitter.

Posted: Wed Jun 01, 2005 12:22 pm
by Tony McC
Nail down edging? Why? Are you not in UK/RoI? the "nail-down edgings" are unrealistically expensive over here.

Cutting with a diamond blade - you can cut right through if you wish, but the blocks will/should snap perfectlyt once the saw has cut to a depth of around 25mm.

Posted: Thu Jun 02, 2005 6:46 am
by jrozycki
Tony McC wrote:Nail down edging? Why? Are you not in UK/RoI? the "nail-down edgings" are unrealistically expensive over here.

Cutting with a diamond blade - you can cut right through if you wish, but the blocks will/should snap perfectlyt once the saw has cut to a depth of around 25mm.
10 foot sections run 12.00 usa dollars. I'll need to support about 270 feet for about 300.00$$ US. I'm emailing you some pics right now.

Posted: Thu Jun 02, 2005 8:49 pm
by Tony McC
10 feet sections (3 metres over here) cost roughly 15 quid (23 dollars) and you have to buy a minimum of arond 30 metres (100 feet). The ground pins, nails, spikes or whatever you want to call them, are extra.

One of our biggest manufacturers used to sell a branded version of a US system, but it never really caught on, and, compared to the concrete-bedded edge courses we typically use in Britain and Ireland, was far more expensive and more difficult to set-up. Since it was withdrawn from the market, other smaller companies have tried to introduce similar systems but sales remain minimal.

I'll keep my eye open for the photies - my email server is having a dicky fit at the mo', so I'm not sure if they've landed yet.