first up, congrats on a great resource. I've been planning to block pave our steep, 90m long drive for a while and am at the final planning stages, thanks to this site. I have a few questions (I haven't done this sort of thing before so excuse me if these questions seem a bit basic).
1. I am going to lay soldier courses at 6m intervals accross the steeper sections of the drive to counter any tendency to creep. I was planning to use 245 deep, 50mm thick, natural concrete pin kerbs as soldier courses accross the drive (with an adjacent drainage channel on the downhill side to prevent the drive becoming a torrent every couple of soldier courses). I read in another post that using natural pin kerbs on edge as soldier courses accross the pavement is not a visually attractive solution so I'm considering using some of the blocks, on end, bedded into concrete instead. I'm thinking to put them on end so that they are actually bedded into the concrete rather than just sitting on top of it (the blocks are the 80mm thick Marshalls type). Does anybody have any comments on whether this would be acceptable? Would just setting the soldier blocks on top of the concrete be sufficiently strong to stop the bricks creeping?
2.Kerb laying times.
I'm trying to work out the most economical way of laying the kerbs. I'm planning to use readymix and get the mixer to drive down the drive, dropping the concrete into trenches dug for the bedding. The kerb section of the site recommends doing this in approx. 10m lengths. I want to minimise the number of times I have to have deliveries of Ready Mix delivered.
Approximately how long should I allow for a couple of people to trample/align/profile a 10m length of kerb onto its bedding?
Roughly how long does C7.5 semi dry remain workable once it is out of the mixer?
Roughly how long do I have, once the bedding for a length of kerb is down, to lay the C20 haunch mix?
Roughly how long does C20 haunch mix remain workable once it is out of the mixer?
thanks for your help with this
cheers,
Blockhead
)