The Brew Cabin

Posted: **Mon Oct 28, 2013 6:09 pm**

I have had a quarry tile patio replaced to brick by builders sent to me by the insurance company after an insurance claim. They have not done a brick patio before.

They kindly agreed to lay brick instead of quarry tiles. They removed the concrete base, filled the hole with hardcore and I think then put sand on it. Then they put the bricks down by putting some mortar on top of that and bedding the bricks into it. Now, they want me to choose what to point it with. They suggested a concrete sand mix.

I have done some research and discovered that laying the bricks in mortar was the wrong thing to do .... Should have laid them straight on sand. But, it is done now. So, I need a fix.

If I use strong mortar to point there is a danger that my lovely handthrown bricks will blow in the frosts.

I cannot find consistent advice. Everyone suggests something different. It has been suggested that I drill through the mortar between the bricks to increase the drainage? At the moment rain runs away from some channels and in some places sits there in the channels. If I take that route, any advice or warnings about how to do it?

Lime mortar has been suggested for pointing... But not till spring.

So, in the short term should I use sand in the gaps? Or should I make sand the long term solution?

And, as I am worried about frost. Should I seal the brick? With what?

At the moment, I have panicked and called a halt. I hope someone can help.

Lynne

Posted: **Mon Oct 28, 2013 8:40 pm**

hmmm
when i have laid a brick patio we bedded the bricks straight onto type 1 wacked on a 50mm flooring sand mix but we perped and jointed the bricks as we went

was the sand layer just a blinding of sand?

have you a picture lynne?

the proper job would be to point with easipoint but it might cost a few quid if they have left the joints too big

cheers LLL

Posted: **Mon Oct 28, 2013 9:36 pm**

Lynn a photo is required to give an accurate answer to your question

how to upload photos

alternatively you could email a moderator or myself the photos and we can magically make them appear on this thread

Posted: **Fri Nov 01, 2013 12:24 am**

Posted: **Fri Nov 01, 2013 3:33 pm**

According to Dropbox, Lynne, you've give invalid links to the photies you wanted to post.

Posted: **Fri Nov 01, 2013 3:41 pm**

lynne's photies

LLL

Posted: **Fri Nov 01, 2013 3:43 pm**

Do you reckon they are paver bricks? I'm not so sure.

Lynne, do you know the name or brand of the bricks?

Posted: **Sat Nov 02, 2013 12:38 am**

They are Galtry by York Handmade. They are handmade bricks, solid without a frog and suitable for patios. They should have been laid on sand without mortar because although they are F2 frost resistant, they will blow in the frost if they get saturated, the water expands and the mortar is too strong to give at all. But, too late... They have been laid in shallow mortar (I hope that is the right word.... The grey stuff!) now, I have to decide, should I make holes in between the bricks for drainage and how do I point them? The lime stuff that someone recommended is no good in this weather and the quick dry pointing is too strong. So, maybe just sand?

Posted: **Sat Nov 02, 2013 6:58 am**

I would joint as soon as poss before winter sets in. Probably the best product to use as LLL suggested is easipoint or maybe Marshalls weatherpoint 365.
Don't know much about easipoint but the weatherpoint 365 can be applied in the wet (actually must be used wet) and is easy to use. Geofix and Rompox make similar products but make sure they are the wet applied ones.

Using a mortar, whether cement or lime (don't know why you need to wait until spring for this) will be a messy and time consuming task (maybe that's why they wanted to wait until spring).

As the joints are deep you may need a fair amount of the weatherpoint type products and they ain't cheap.
Maybe you could partially fill the joints with cement/lime slurry (about halfway) and wash the surface clean, let it set solid and then top up with the weatherpoint/geofix/rompox.
Another opinion on this method would be appreciated.

E're sand will just wash out.

Posted: **Sat Nov 02, 2013 8:26 am**

lemoncurd we dont mention g*%&shit on this forum fella

for speed and drainage i would go marshalls weatherpoint 365
its gonnna cost a few quid with those joints though
maybe 10 tubs? at Â£35 a tub
LLL

Posted: **Sat Nov 02, 2013 9:04 pm**

lutonlagerlout wrote:lemoncurd we dont mention g*%&shit on this forum fella

for speed and drainage i would go marshalls weatherpoint 365
its gonnna cost a few quid with those joints though
maybe 10 tubs? at Â£35 a tub
LLL

Yeah yeah I know, but I thought I should mention that other products are available even ones that change colour.

Posted: **Sun Nov 03, 2013 1:06 am**

please google geofix and paving expert
that blinking stuff has cost me a lot of money and anyone that recommends it needs horsewhipping

joking aside that and rompox are not fit for the purpose
LLL

Edited By lutonlagerlout on 1383440793

Posted: **Sun Nov 03, 2013 6:50 am**

Have used the York hand made patio brick they were class o laid on sand cement screed and pointed sand cement fine plastering grade know problems . So are these there house building bricks ps they look well laid

. Closer look at photos the paviours I used were 115 mm wide and nearly Â£1 each

Edited By cookiewales on 1383461613

Posted: **Sun Nov 03, 2013 7:13 am**

lutonlagerlout wrote:please google geofix and paving expert
that blinking stuff has cost me a lot of money and anyone that recommends it needs horsewhipping
joking aside that and rompox are not fit for the purpose
LLL

I thought Rompox and weatherpoint were made in the same factory, they look identical to me. Even the tubs it comes in are same.

I'm pretty sure the jointing compound that comes with Marshalls Cobbletech is the same too, just different colour tub and label.

Posted: **Sun Nov 03, 2013 9:25 am**

^^ you need to read up on that subject, i think you will find not correct MSH

The Brew Cabin

Brick patio rescue needed