The Brew Cabin

Super site!!

I'm thinking of having Patterned Concrete laid out to my driveway to replace the old and worn tarmac. I've read some of your thoughts / comments on PIC but feel it is worth pursuing to the next stage - getting 2 - 3 quotes.

Can you give me contacts for reputable contractors in the Middlesex (London) area? My drive is about 75 - 80 sq M.

Also, can you summarise the drawbacks or considerations before I committ - I thknk I understand the benefits (weed-free, does not sink, etc.)

Many thanks,

I have a policy of not recommending contractors unless I know them personally, and with Middlesex being so far off my patch, I can't say that I know any PIC contractors down there in the Styx.

There's a company based in the Midlands that has a very good reputation and do work Nationwide - Classic Impressions. Their MD is Noel Hand, and you can contact him on 01788 540333 during business hours. Tell him I referred you, as I was speaking with him only yesterday. :)

I'd still get another couple of quotes, though, just to be on the safe side - try contacting PICS in Newbury and they'll tell you who works your area and is relaible. Contact info on the Links page.

As for a summary, that's more or less given on the PIC page. PIC is sort-of weed-free, but it's NOT maintenance free - if you let crud build up in the joints, weeds will grow in the crud. Also, it doesn't sink, as long as it's laid properly - if it's laid badly or the control joints are omitted, it will sink/crack/settle.

Properly laid, it's a good surface, but it's not elemental: it's monolithic, which means big problems if anything goes wrong underneath, such as leaking gas service pipes or broken drains.

But, as I always say, it;s you that has to live with this for the next god-knows-how-many years, not I, so the final choicce must be yours. If PIC sounds good to you, then give Noel a call and find out what it would cost, but also see if you can get a cost for, say, concrete block paving, over the same area, so you can compare overall costs.

Let us know how you get on. :)

Thanks for the tips. I thought I'd let you know how I've got on...

Spoke briefly with Noel Hand - he was leaving for a weeks leave when I called (should be back now) so may get in touch again. I also got in touch with PICs who has passed my details on to a few contractors. These 'smaller' players appear to be a little cheaper than the 'bigger' boys (who, incidentely, are consistent in their pricing).

Should I be nervous about doing business with new / small firms who have been recommended by PICs. ??These individuals tell me they were previously sub-contracting with the 'bigger boys' and have been laying concrete imprinting for 5-10 years.

Also, I'm considering PIC for my pation where there is a gradient - a 'soakaway' has been suggested under the lawn with outlets from a retaining wall to take the water away from the patio. Is this effective?

Will probably need more advice/direction in the near future - hope you don't mind.

Thanks again.

The advantage of the 'bigger' companies, is that their guarantee is much more likely to be honoured. Some (not all, but some ) of the smaller 'companies' only last a season and then they're gone, and, if you have any problems, you're stuck.

Only you can choose the best contractor. Who do you feel most confident with? Who has the best portfolio and offer the best after-sales service? Who offers an insurance backed guarantee? In an ideal world, you want at least 20 years life out of this paving, so, for me, it would be worth paying a few bob extra to get the quaklity and guaranrtees that will ensure I get 20-odd years, rather than saving a few quid and seeing the damned stuff fall apart in 2005/

As for the soakaway - these only work in areas that are naturally well-drained. If you're on clay, soakaways generally don't work. Where does your existing SW system drain to?

Have now had several quotes. There is a significant cost difference (35%+) between the 'big' palyers and the 'small crews'. The difference between the two smaller companies is about £1,000 for 3 different jobs totalling some 175 sq. mtrs - the cheaper one is probably making it (the price) attractive because they are setting up a new company (and need references, etc.), the slightly dearer one has an established company but is still only offering a one year guarantee (5 years Insurance back gntee comes with an extra £500!!). Both teams have been subcontracting with the larger 'boys' (Town & Country, First Impression etc.) for over 10 years.

My next step is to see more of their work (in each case) and take a decision based on quality of work / price.

Any other factors to consider?

On reflection, will avoid the soakaway and will insist on an accodrain (?) from retaing wall back to the main gutters. By the way, is it okay to pipe (underground) the rain water from the patio/driveway to a manhole ? They tell me that they'd ensure the smell would not 'leak' out with the connections via the accodrain!

Sorry, what is SW? (pardon my ignorance)

Catch up soon.

Okay, I figured SW probably stands for Surface Water? I think the rain water is chanelled into a gulley which may then be connected to the main FW (but not sure).

Also, one other question on the PIC; it was suggested that if the base under my existing tarmac (on the driveway) is sound, then they would not add any further sub-base (MOT type 1). Furthermore, when asked what difference this might make to the price (because there is less digging and reduced cost for sub-base), I was told it doesn't change the price. So, firstly, should I insist on a 'fresh' sub-base regardless and second, is it right that the quote would not change if the job turns out to be easier and requires less materials?

Thanks again,

i'd recommend streetprint pavement texturing,check my old posting at other pavings,contact www.btminternational.co.uk for your nearest contractor and streetprint.com for specs.

john.

Sorry for the delay in replying; I've been away for a few days.

With regard to the drainage issue - if the linear drain (ACO or other type) is to be connected to the existing sewers system, then it should be connected to the SW system, if at all possible. If this is not feasible, or it is a combined system, then the connection must be 'trapped' to prevent odours escaping from the Foul System.

Secondly, the re-use of existing sub-base. If it's sound, there's no point in replacing it - if it ain't broke, don't fix it! However, it may need regulating, which involves re-levelling and topping up as required. I'm at a loss as to why the contractor claims it has no bearing on the job price. Excavation for and supply of a suitable sub-base layer represents a major part of the cost of any pavement installation. So, while I would not insist on a new sub-base (unless the existing proves to be totally unsuitable) I would insist on a price reduction if no sub-base is installed.

Have you checked out their references yet?