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Posted: Sat Jun 29, 2013 5:19 pm
by bodgeitandscarper
I removed all plaster on walls and found this little beauty. It holds up the wall above the stairs i take it it needs taking out and RSJ putting in it spans about 1.9m and connects to the lintel above the door leading to outside. Is this a job a diyer can do? lintels
Posted: Sat Jun 29, 2013 5:35 pm
by rimexboy
I would think that's got metal bars running through it, also you will have the weight of the first floor above then the walls and the roof structure on that.
It's a job that should have planning permission on but I've done a similar thing when I noticed an old rsj already fitted was to small and failing,
Just done it myself but was informed to get permission
Posted: Sat Jun 29, 2013 5:39 pm
by bodgeitandscarper
if you look closely the bloody thing is two lintels the join is just above the brick!
Posted: Sat Jun 29, 2013 6:00 pm
by rimexboy
Sorry on the phone could not see that...
Well it sounds like you already know the answer
Posted: Sat Jun 29, 2013 7:09 pm
by rab1
Providing the Lintel is in one piece (hard to tell in the middle) and overlaps the brickwork at each end by 150mm happy days all is good.
Posted: Sun Jun 30, 2013 9:53 pm
by GB_Groundworks
It would need building regs not planning permission
But as its a like for like switch out you might get away with it,
It should be one lintel with 100mm barring on each end, Steels will be easier as you got the other lintel coming in so unless you lift one up you are going to need to join them. Which can't be done easily with concrete lintels
It's something a good diyer could do but needs doing correctly
Posted: Mon Jul 01, 2013 8:38 pm
by rab1
the bearing depends on the block/brick size but 150mm is best.
Posted: Tue Jul 30, 2013 5:50 pm
by bodgeitandscarper
building surveyor had a look and recommended replacing brick, which I have done and I also installed Helifix around cracks, so job done.
I now wanted the kitchen to be plastered and looked on tinternet and apparently for a kitchen, browning and skimmed is the best method.
Plasterer came today and started but said it would be better plasterboarded, so after a chat I went with it! He has just gone and Ive had a look around and found:
Around plugs and sockets there doesnt seem to be much board adhesive! Surely around a socket they should be fully supported?
There doesnt seem to be many blobs per full board, 9 to be exact. Is this ok?
Am I just worrying over nothing!
Posted: Tue Jul 30, 2013 6:57 pm
by lutonlagerlout
bodge why oh why have you gone for drylining?
everyone knows its shite
its used purely for speed
hardwall and multifinish is the best job,or sand and cement
on all council work we have to use sand/cement and multifinish,why do you think they specify that?
9 dots on a board sounds about right ,on site the edges of the boards have to have a full bond of adhesive right round them
cheers
LLL
Posted: Tue Jul 30, 2013 7:56 pm
by bodgeitandscarper
Bollocks! One of the walls has got quite a bad bow in it and he suggested that he would need so much browning that it wouldn't be worth it and i fell for it. What would you do now? I want to tell him F off but the Wife is fed up of having no kitchen and wants it finished. 
Posted: Tue Jul 30, 2013 8:21 pm
by rab1
you could just fill and tape the dot-dabbed gyproc and paint/ finish and more importantly keep the boss happy.
PS, on large sites dot dab or drywall (gyproc) is the only way its done unless specified and even then it gets changed due to cost..
Posted: Tue Jul 30, 2013 10:41 pm
by lutonlagerlout
this is someone's home Rab
drylining on site is often done on steel studs and to a very high spec
in the kitchen i am working on right now we have gutted it and will be using foil back plasterboard on the ceilings and hardwall/multi on the walls
he still has to get over the bow with the drylining
its up to you bodge but i can tell you that drylining it the price should be at least 40 % cheaper
far less work and material
LLL
Posted: Tue Jul 30, 2013 11:12 pm
by henpecked
If its a solid wall, ie. brick or block ,dot and dab is fine. You can use sound check, fire check,moisture check or whatever when dotting and dabbing.
You can use steel studs if you want, but you'll be losing 3-4" of kitchen to get over the hump. ???
Posted: Wed Jul 31, 2013 8:30 pm
by rab1
when its being dot dabbed the boards should be true and as such there is no issue with the hump in the wall. if you want you could plaster the gyproc as belt and braces.
Posted: Thu Aug 01, 2013 8:37 am
by bodgeitandscarper
He's finished and lesson learned. He did a good job plastering but I'm unsure of plasterboards. I don't seem to be able to understand why people don't just do the best job to start with ( belt & braces approach ). If my wife had given the go ahead for an extension someone else could of had the headache of finding decent trades. As you can tell my wife is the BOSS!
