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Posted: Wed Mar 30, 2011 7:45 pm
by Wilson.chris8
Hi All
I've just brought a new house and am halfway through building a patio I have already built a retaining wall and have brought a decorative brick to front it. (Moorland Stone http://www.garden-paving-supplies.co.uk/-affpro....e.html) I have been recommended to keep the classic look not to use mortar and to glue these bricks together? My first question is weather you recommend this and if so what to use?? Some sort of sticks like s*** or gripfil??
Thanks for you time
Chris Wilson
Posted: Wed Mar 30, 2011 8:03 pm
by London Stone Paving
Hi Chris
I am no expert on this product but after reading the product spec I dont think you should be using any kind of glue. The product description reccomends 10-15mm joints when "pointed". Also imagine the cost of using glue with a 10-15mm gap, it would be a fortune.
These days there are lots of coloured mortar products available if you want to choose a mortar colour to blend in and look natural. Also there was a post recently which reccomended ways of artificially ageing walling products.
Have a look on this link
Posted: Wed Mar 30, 2011 8:20 pm
by ilovesettsonmondays
m fix is one product that was designed for those blocks . check marshalls see if they still make it .
Posted: Wed Mar 30, 2011 8:38 pm
by lutonlagerlout
I have built planters with these and used the glue
the thing is you need to bed your bottom course in leanmix or such to get it spot on level before you start using the glue on the upper courses
i didn't want to use the glue but the client was adamant and i have to say it did look nice,when finished
the glue goes off quite quickly so you have to make sure any cuts are done in advance
cheers LLL
Posted: Wed Mar 30, 2011 8:51 pm
by London Stone Paving
Well thats told me hasn't it.
Would it not be really expensive to maintain 10-15mm joints with glue, or does the 10-15mm go out of the window and they are just stuck down?
Posted: Wed Mar 30, 2011 8:56 pm
by Wilson.chris8
LLL being the novice that I am is lean mix a type of mix or could I just use a bog standard mortar mix?? Also for some reason I carnt see the you tube link so what is the actuall name of the glue used??
Thanks for your comments so far
Chris
Posted: Wed Mar 30, 2011 9:11 pm
by ilovesettsonmondays
lsp that m fix i used it years ago . its not cheap . only used it because i cant lay face bricks neat 
Posted: Wed Mar 30, 2011 9:12 pm
by ilovesettsonmondays
just stuck down lsp . thin layer
Posted: Wed Mar 30, 2011 9:34 pm
by London Stone Paving
Yeh, that sounds a lot more user friendly if your not an experienced brick layer, which I never was
Posted: Wed Mar 30, 2011 9:48 pm
by lutonlagerlout
you apply the glue then scrape it with like a floor adhesive scraper
these concrete products are a pain with mortar as they get a wobble on due to not sucking any moisture out of the mix
chris wilson, what i meant was if you go the glue route your bottom course needs to be bang on level and square and any cuts worked out and done before you start
with the glue if its 5mm out at the bottom it will be 5 mm out a t the top
Have to say i struggled doing 6 courses of it (inexperience prolly) and when i did a lawn border i just laid them on mortar on a concrete bed
cheers LLL 
Posted: Wed Mar 30, 2011 10:29 pm
by Wilson.chris8
Thank you all that should be a great help dose anyone know how much a 5kg tub should cover I have about 50 bricks at 445mm long to lay??
Posted: Wed Mar 30, 2011 10:50 pm
by Pablo
A cheaper and easier way would be to use cement mixed with water to a tiling adhesive consistency. Spread it on with a tile trowel and give each block a wee tap to bed it. Keep a bucket and sponge handy to clean the face as you go. I recently had to remove a course of secura block laid by myself like this and the block would break before the bond would on alot of it. Add a dash of SBR if you want it to be even stronger. As LLL says the first course must be totally level or it will kick subsequent courses out.
Posted: Wed Mar 30, 2011 10:58 pm
by Wilson.chris8
Great advise Pablo I think I'll go with that thinking a standard mortar base as it's under the ground slightly and covered and then using ur concrete solution for the other 4 courses..
Cheers guys
Chris
Posted: Sat Apr 02, 2011 8:07 am
by seanandruby
I think the mix on those should'nt be as strong as for ordinary bricks...if i remember right ???