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Posted: Sun Dec 25, 2011 10:09 am
by lutonlagerlout
busy last week ,have done 6 ramps recently for the council but will get pics when the railings go up
went to see this chimney last friday
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so under engineers advice knocked half of it down saved the bricks and rebuilt it in lime mortar
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12 metres up
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ground all the joints out and grouted helical bars in
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then repointed with easipoint historical lime mortar (sigh if only all mortar was a nice to use)Image
the jenny wheel was a life saver getting stuff up but it is surprising how hard it is to pull a bucket of muck up 12 M
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went back yesterday and finished the pot s but no camera
cheers LLL :)




Edited By lutonlagerlout on 1324807879

Posted: Mon Dec 26, 2011 7:04 pm
by Pablo
tidy chimney there tony that mortar looks great. What can cause a chimney to split like that out of interest.

Posted: Mon Dec 26, 2011 8:33 pm
by lutonlagerlout
IMO water ingress and heat from chimney fires
plus the chimney had a design detail which was flawed as it wasnt tied in
its done ok as it was built in 1901, but also it had no pots on for some weird reason
but water is the big baddie plus someone had repointed it with strong cement mortar which stops water evaporating
hopefully it will last another 110 years :;):
LLL

Posted: Tue Dec 27, 2011 9:53 am
by dig dug dan
nice job tony. out of interest, what does scaffolding cost for a job like that? looks like you could adjust the height yourself at the top

Posted: Tue Dec 27, 2011 10:23 am
by lutonlagerlout
£1100 +vat
the cracks were originally spotted by flue men who were using a 20M genie boom.dunno who much they cost to hire
LLL :)

Posted: Tue Dec 27, 2011 4:07 pm
by mike builder/landscaper
big north/south defide there tony. i rebuilt a chimney last week and the scaffold was only 150 quid.

Posted: Tue Dec 27, 2011 5:43 pm
by dig dug dan
£1100 +vat
the cracks were originally spotted by flue men who were using a 20M genie boom.dunno who much they cost to hire
LLL :)


how many days were you there tony?
I hired a genie Boom (great bits of kit) for a weeks job at a school, £330 for the week + transport(£30 each way) plus vat
no need to lug anything up with a genie wheel, plus you have a power supply built into the cage!

Posted: Tue Dec 27, 2011 9:41 pm
by lutonlagerlout
I didnt want to do a full shot of the house as its a very distinctive 2 million quid gaff, and it would give it away straight off
I have had chimneys scaffolded for £400 on a pair of semis type of house
but this house is 3 storey plus rooms in the loft and they had to build a tower then use trusses to cantilever it
the client had another quote of £2k +£100 a week rent
our scaff has never charged us rent yet
we couldnt have done the work we did from a boom
taking 200 bricks off and cleaning them is not something i would try from a cherry picker
plus all the ancillary stuff
client is over the moon,we are paid ,scaffolder is paid
nice job just before xmas
LLL :)

Posted: Tue Dec 27, 2011 9:42 pm
by lutonlagerlout
5 days with 2 men and a lad dan
how long was the boom you hired?
i could see them being very handy on certain jobs
LLL ???

Posted: Tue Dec 27, 2011 9:55 pm
by dig dug dan
how long was the boom you hired?
i could see them being very handy on certain jobs


it was a 15.7m one. we were cutting conifers and trimming back the sides on a tennis court at a school. really great bit of kit, and hardly used any diesel.
I can see with your job, scaff was better as you could get all round the chimney easily




Edited By dig dug dan on 1325022962

Posted: Tue Dec 27, 2011 10:31 pm
by rab1
Dan, thats a baby boom (cherry picker), hire the big ones and sh1t yourself. :p

Posted: Thu Dec 29, 2011 10:13 pm
by dodger41
lutonlagerlout wrote:I didnt want to do a full shot of the house as its a very distinctive 2 million quid gaff, and it would give it away straight off
I have had chimneys scaffolded for £400 on a pair of semis type of house
but this house is 3 storey plus rooms in the loft and they had to build a tower then use trusses to cantilever it
the client had another quote of £2k +£100 a week rent
our scaff has never charged us rent yet
we couldnt have done the work we did from a boom
taking 200 bricks off and cleaning them is not something i would try from a cherry picker
plus all the ancillary stuff
client is over the moon,we are paid ,scaffolder is paid
nice job just before xmas
LLL :)
Nice work on the chimneys mate !, did you use lime mortar to re-build them, then rake-out and re-point later ??, whats the lime mortar like to use, compared to normal muck ??, cheers !.

Posted: Fri Dec 30, 2011 1:32 am
by lutonlagerlout
the bit that was rebuilt we used 4 sand:1 cement : 1lime
we then raked it all out and repointed with easipoints historic lime mortar which contains no cement at all
the idea being that any damp can evaporate rather than be trapped in
it is really nice to work with
took 2 days to go off and just lovely to use

btw welcome to the brewcabin dodger
LLL :)

Posted: Fri Dec 30, 2011 11:15 am
by Brucieboy
Dogder - apologies if you already know this, but following on from LLL's advice, don't just use hydrated lime (available at most builders merchants) and sand - it will never go off. It must be mixed with a cementitious material, most commonly cement. Easipoint Historic mortar uses ggbs (ground granulated blastfurnace slag) in combination with hydrated lime (as well as pigments to achieve various colours). ggbs is a cement replacement material (white in colour) used at most ready mixed concrete plants throughout the UK to replace a proportion of the ordinary Portland cement (CEMI). The plants that don't stock ggbs, use pfa (pulverised fuel ash, aka fly ash).

If your going to use lime mortar (it's been around for about 10,000 years), use hydrated lime with cement or alternatively use the proprietary materials such Easipoint Historic. A lime that can be used on its own is with sand is natural hydraulic lime. This is available at some builders merchants under the name NHL 2.0, 3.5, 5.0 etc (the number stands for it's compressive strength). The real traditional lime mortar is made with lime putty (supplied in tubs) and sharp sand. It has to be "knocked up" by hand into a soft dough-like consistency - usually in the volume proportions 3 sharp sand (sometimes 2) to 1 of lime putty.

Lime mortar with no cement is excellent to use for the right job (normally restoration) and in the right conditions - as LLL says it can take some time to go off. It relies on carbon dioxide from the atmosphere to convert the lime back to it's original calcium carbonate form.

Lime mortar was used to build most houses etc right up until late Victorian times when Portand cement first became an economic alternative. Cement:sand mortar or cement:lime(hydrated):sand mortar is now the norm because it goes off much quicker - as demanded by our fast track construction requirements.

If in doubt, check it out first before use.

Posted: Fri Dec 30, 2011 12:08 pm
by lutonlagerlout
couldnt have put it better myself brucie
i have done some heritage work with the hydraulic lime mortar and you have to cover the work with damp hessian for weeks on end in the summer,plus the heritage types love using a really coarse sand. almost like grit sand
i like doing a bit of weatherstruck and even birds beak when the notion takes me ,but have you ever tried tuck pointing?
LLL :)