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Posted: Thu Oct 02, 2014 10:34 pm
by ajmoore1
Fair play, bet not many people would hand dig 2.1m deep. How do you price a job like that, never know what your going to hit when down there?
Posted: Fri Oct 03, 2014 7:38 am
by GB_Groundworks
To get a safe 45 degree batter on your trench your going to end up more than 3m wide at top or are you going to trench prop the sides with sheet piles or timber?, because there's no way you'd get in or ask your lads to be in an unsupported trench that deep.
Even stepped you are going to end up +2m wide or more
Surely ring beam and mini piles are the way to go be cheaper as well
6 would probably do it at £200 a pop for about 6 metre depth then a 600x450 ring beam
Edited By GB_Groundworks on 1412318434
Posted: Fri Oct 03, 2014 5:47 pm
by lutonlagerlout
the big issue is that the access like a lot of old houses is terrible
the side path is only 600mm wide and then there are steps trees and low roofs
we looked at craning a digger over the house but it is 45 m from the road horizontally to where the digger would need to be plus £700 +VAT for each crane visit
its looking like 18mm shuttering ply and trench props
any idea what the spacing should be on these
I was thinking around every 900mm?
ty
LLL
Posted: Fri Oct 03, 2014 5:56 pm
by dig dug dan
Dare I suggest, but I once drove a digger through a house. Is that an option?
Posted: Fri Oct 03, 2014 6:13 pm
by mickg
a wheel barrow is 590mm wide ?
you will take the skin of your knuckles pushing a barrow so close to the brickwork on the side of the house unless your thinking of carry the soil and clay out using gorilla buckets 
Posted: Fri Oct 03, 2014 6:14 pm
by lutonlagerlout
sadly not
when we have hand dug deep before it generally takes twice as long due to double handling,plus digging around props etc
my argument was and always will be if the house is built on 300mm of concrete and hasnt moved in 80 years why put 1900mm of concrete under a single story extension
the insurance industry has scared the life out of BCOs with all this
to anyone thinking of having an extension cut down any tree within 8 metres before you start
especially conifers
FYI
www.darlington.gov.uk/media/121421/Foun ... -Trees.pdf
Edited By lutonlagerlout on 1412356496
Posted: Fri Oct 03, 2014 6:28 pm
by seanandruby
Posted: Sat Oct 04, 2014 1:16 pm
by msh paving
drive piles using a 110mm mole, compressor out front hose to rear 150mm dia. pile casing, then a 450mm beam on top, little to cart out
MSH 
Posted: Sat Oct 04, 2014 7:27 pm
by sy76uk
Not updated any recent work on here FB or my website for 2 months until today. Here's a link to the FB page. Pictures aren't great as I didn't take them at the best times, cars in the way, gates closed ect so I'll have tio visit the jobs again for more pictures for the website. https://www.facebook.com/Sampaving/timeline
Posted: Sun Oct 05, 2014 8:51 am
by Forestboy1978
Why especially conifers?
Posted: Sun Oct 05, 2014 8:59 am
by dig dug dan
Conifers take a lot more moisture from the ground, as do eucalyptus. My neighbour has a small eucalyptus in their front garden, and because of that, my extension footings have to be 2.4m deep. We are not exrending now as its too expensive 
Posted: Sun Oct 05, 2014 9:07 am
by lutonlagerlout
I remember from a previous house that we were worried about neighbours trees
my insurance company wrote to the neighbours telling them in no uncertain terms that if the trees weren't dealt with they would be held liable for any subsequent subsidence claim
(we had subsidence)
on another note for anyone that has small cracks think long and hard before claiming
once a house is listed as having subsidence the premiums for that house go up threefold
LLL
Posted: Sun Oct 05, 2014 2:15 pm
by GB_Groundworks
Toby for mini piles as mark says hand dig a small trench say 600mm wide, 450 deep then the compressor stays on the road the pipes run down the access way then everything else can be carried done the alleyway mole, 2m lengths of pile abd small launching tripod to hoist it up. Then let them knock 6 or 8 piles in rebar it, clay board the sides if you need to then pour ring beam into trench or shuttering if reduced levels all over, you'll save thousands on a 2.1 hand dig labour skips, concrete etc
Posted: Sun Oct 05, 2014 3:38 pm
by lutonlagerlout
happy days the neighbour has relented and the trees are coming out
75mm clay board and 1m deep
LLL
Posted: Sun Oct 05, 2014 6:21 pm
by Forestboy1978
dig dug dan wrote:Conifers take a lot more moisture from the ground, as do eucalyptus. My neighbour has a small eucalyptus in their front garden, and because of that, my extension footings have to be 2.4m deep. We are not exrending now as its too expensive
Hmmm yeah I'm aware they're thirsty but didn't realise that would cause an issue in itself. I see plenty of conifers lining the front of peoples front gardens directly next to walls without issue though, large ones too sometimes.
Very surprised to hear that they would effect something as substantial as an extension in that way. So the dry soil moves as it dries which causes shifting or cracking in foundations I guess. Interesting!