Page 3 of 5
Posted: Wed Apr 07, 2010 9:08 pm
by lutonlagerlout
M@tt wrote:i've actually changed my plans today and ordered 2 pallets of hollow concrete blocks!! it saves building 2 skins as my brick laying is shite to say the least 
i'll chuck up the retaining wall with those instead, after pouring a concrete footing that i can mix up myself in the mixer.
i can whack some rebar down every other hole, infill with cement and leave some protruding to tie into the poured base, jobs a goodun!!
Oh and yes i should have said i certainly won't be doing it all myself, i plan to convince some of my fairly handy mates to lend a hand with the pouring screeding when the time comes!!
if your bricklaying is that bad ,hollow blocks will be a nightmare
make sure you have your mortar strong and stiff for these beauts,and as mikey said lay your first course onto the semi stiff concrete then push your rebar into the still plastic footing
personally i use L-bars and set the steelwork up before the pour but thats for a designed retaining wall
good luck
LLL
Posted: Wed Apr 07, 2010 11:14 pm
by M@tt
i've just watched this vid on youtube i should be a pro in no time!! 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8VGjA66RSm0&feature=related
Posted: Wed Apr 07, 2010 11:23 pm
by mickg
and if not you can always watch this video
click here
Posted: Thu Apr 08, 2010 2:28 pm
by M@tt
Dont forget some drainage, wrapped filter pipe with stone surround.
where are you suggesting i put drainage?
cheers
Matt
Posted: Thu Apr 08, 2010 7:57 pm
by lutonlagerlout
that brickie wants shooting
no wonder he doesnt show his face
dog rough,no crossjoints and no full joints on the perpends
hes a clown without a suit
LLL 
Posted: Fri Apr 09, 2010 7:28 am
by mickg
if you read the comments most say he is one of the best mud workers they have ever seen....pmsl
there is a large amount of rebar at the side of one of the spot boards which that the way construction is carried out in the good old US of A is to throw the wall up to act as the shutter, place reinforcing bars in the hollow and fill with a wet mix what will run into the areas what should of had a mortar bed, or this is the ideas
which then leads you to think this could be the reason why building disappear in high winds...hey ho
Posted: Fri Apr 09, 2010 10:50 am
by M@tt
so the middle cross joins need mortar as well and the ends need a full covering also?
Posted: Fri Apr 09, 2010 2:46 pm
by mickg
so the middle cross joins need mortar as well and the ends need a full covering also?
yes
Posted: Fri Apr 09, 2010 7:48 pm
by irishpaving
Thats right mick but those blocks are designed for a liquid fill thats why the cross section is recessed. Whats funny is if they actually ties the rebar into there foundations it wouldn't be a bad wall....
Posted: Sun Apr 11, 2010 8:01 pm
by M@tt
I've made a bit of progress this weekend, i've fitted the expansion boards against the walls and sorted the levels out. I'm buying a wacker plate tomorrow(rather than several weeks hire) so i'll be able to compact the base down properly before fitting the visqeen and matabar.
The hollow blocks will be delivered later in the week so i should be able to make a start on the retaining wall.
My local building supplies store doesn't do the matabar chairs/pedestals and neither does B&Q etc so shall i just use some small bricks/stones etc to support the matabar at the right levels?
Posted: Thu Apr 15, 2010 11:42 pm
by M@tt
slowly getting there
also that guy in the video i linked above laying the hollow blocks is either
a) and absolute man mountain with bear like strength
or
b) using considerably lighter hollow blocks
i've just had to shift 62 of the buggers and i'm no gym monkey or a 7 stone weakling but it took a proper 2 handed effort to pick one of the buggers up!!!
Posted: Fri Apr 16, 2010 8:15 am
by Mikey_C
is that a pit you are putting in the middle or something else?
Posted: Fri Apr 16, 2010 9:12 am
by M@tt
M@tt wrote:
I've bought a hydraulic scissor type car lift
So the plan is to have a recess in the floor for the lift to sit into rather than struggle to get my cars over it which are on the whole lowered so might have clearance issues.
The bit you can see is the base of that recess. I'll pour that first then once that sets/cures i've got a smaller shutter frame which will sit on top of it which will form the edges when the rest of the base is poured
Posted: Fri Apr 16, 2010 10:31 pm
by Mikey_C
aha I see, good idea, although that lift looks like it has seen some action.
