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Posted: Thu Mar 15, 2012 1:27 am
by lutonlagerlout
lot of area there and not a drain in site?
where will it go?
great concrete finishing
LLL

Posted: Thu Mar 15, 2012 6:58 am
by msh paving
lutonlagerlout wrote:lot of area there and not a drain in site?
where will it go?
great concrete finishing
LLL
straight cross fall side to side almost 250mm going into channel drains in to petrol interceptor then in to pond,the other side off earth bund,with envroment agency permit,

we used a yard broom on a long pole and rope,as my fresno brush head would not sit flat,brand new head 15mm gimp in middle..........

MSH :)

Posted: Thu Mar 15, 2012 5:40 pm
by msh paving
DNgroundworks wrote:Hi Mark, what do you do with the top of the flexcell? do you not find that it gets in the way whilst pouring and finishing the concrete, like concrete covering the top of it etc?
Flexcell has not been a problem as it sits along side the road forms,edging trowel runs along side it no problem,with the roller it keeps it clean on top as well,
Today was a good day 3 loads in and finished home at 2pm.. :D
hears the guys on brush and rope

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last pour monday,strip forms and stack tommrow MSH :)

Posted: Sun Apr 08, 2012 8:45 pm
by oioisonnyboy
Nice job, especially using someone elses bunyan tube, they are a pain in the ar5e to store as the tube must be kept straight, nice flat bays though.

Shame about the penny pinching on the dowels, even gash steel chopped in lengths is better than nothing!

Posted: Sun Apr 08, 2012 11:19 pm
by seanandruby
I have always liked the bunyon tube, better to hire one in tho'. Remember the old design when the clip holding the handle used to fly off and everyone dive for cover :)

Posted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 7:03 am
by msh paving
I own a 6.3m tube and my mate has full selection up to 10m....what a tube.he has a trailer with special tray to carry them looks like a scud missile,so they keep dead straight, a bent tube is nooooo good.... :D MSH :)

Posted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 9:55 am
by seanandruby
Just one question. Are you going to seal the joints, if so wouldn't it of been beneficial to you to rip some 20 ml rebate for ease of striking? If not, tell me to f*** off and mind my own business :laugh:

Posted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 11:15 am
by msh paving
seanandruby wrote:Just one question. Are you going to seal the joints, if so wouldn't it of been beneficial to you to rip some 20 ml rebate for ease of striking? If not, tell me to f*** off and mind my own business :laugh:
If i had my way it would be done, but the customer would not pay for that to be done he is happy for moss and green stuff to grow, i had no say in the money part of the job i was called in for my plant and know how :D MSH :)

Posted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 11:27 am
by seanandruby
For a hap'orth of tar a?

Posted: Wed Apr 11, 2012 7:26 pm
by oioisonnyboy
Zactly!

One that always gets me is when you put in a crack inducer in bays like these, faff about with mesh, dowel bars etc etc and then faff with the crack inducer strip...and then one year down the line the top part is cracked and peeling out the joint, the groove is full of dust and no mastic in sight!!

sean, what do you think of the kerb thing for the bunyan tube, runs along the top of the kerb when doing roads. Used one last year was such a pain we resorted to 2 bits of timber as a "chopper" :;):

Posted: Wed Apr 11, 2012 7:51 pm
by msh paving
oioisonnyboy wrote:sean, what do you think of the kerb thing for the bunyan tube, runs along the top of the kerb when doing roads. Used one last year was such a pain we resorted to 2 bits of timber as a "chopper" :;):
If you use the "kerb crawler" made by spedecrete they work great,fully adjustable the one i saw them making in the factory last week was 8" wide so it sits flat, MSH :)

Posted: Wed Apr 11, 2012 8:18 pm
by DNgroundworks
Sean, your the man on this sorta stuff, when you say "rebate" do you mean a rip of timber that sits on top of the fibre board....if so, how do you get it stay put and how do you get it out after? I take it you can run the bullnose trowel up against/along the edge of the timber, leaving a nice clean gap for sealer?