Page 19 of 32
Posted: Thu Feb 17, 2011 1:26 pm
by London Stone Paving
That bar looks very useful. I've not seen one like that before.
Posted: Thu Feb 17, 2011 6:05 pm
by Al Jardin
Work looks good Giles. How come you don't invert one of the hangers on the gates? Mind you I've only ever installed one before but I'm sure I had the bottom hanger taking the weight and the top one as the adjustable and inverted. Makes it harder to steal.
Those grafters are a god send for post holes.
Al
Posted: Thu Feb 17, 2011 6:52 pm
by dig dug dan
glad you mentioned the gates. I had been holding off.
First thing to note is that the gate posts should be level with each other. It doesn't look right having the gate higher than the post.I would also match the gate post tops to the gate tops. ie.e pointed tops on the gates, pointed on the posts.
The hinges used on the posts are designed for much larger posts or oak. On softwood of this size, hooks to bolt should be used, as it avoids the posts splitting where the hinges have been driven in.
The hooks to bolt also come with a pre-drilled hole in the pin to enable a security pin to be fitted. this stops the gates being lifted off.
Posted: Thu Feb 17, 2011 7:18 pm
by digerjones
i agree with the gate posts, but them hinges are what you use on them feild gates. they look like the type i have used, they come in a full gate hanging kit.
Posted: Thu Feb 17, 2011 7:50 pm
by GB_Groundworks
Hahahaha dan
Tops are level as possible as it's on a steep slope
Hinges come with the gates, hung hundreds of these never had a 6x6 posts spilt as I pre drill with 22mm auger bit,
Posts are in that deep to resist the pull from the gate, bottom hinge is just a guide top hinge carries the weight and is adjustable.
Gate hinges with 4 bolts are for diyers and light gates these are the proper jobs used in every 5 bar agricultural gate Anywhere in the country side,
These have the security hole in the top hinge, and the advantagse of adjustment and the strength of a through bolt and washer Rather than 4 screw
I do on average a couple of thousand metres a year of post and rail and gateways and have read and regularly consult, have it in my truck the btcv guide book to fencing which is the bible for fencing and gates. Used to be online but can't find it will takesome photos of the book.
No one will steal these, makes it awkward for future work if you have to remove the hinge off the gate itself to get it off. And just don't like doing it. If i was worried I'd weld a bit on top stop anyone lifting it off
Why don't you post some pics of your own work rather than commenting mine.
Edited By GB_Groundworks on 1297974054
Posted: Thu Feb 17, 2011 8:01 pm
by GB_Groundworks
London Stone Paving wrote:That bar looks very useful. I've not seen one like that before.
It's a special fencing bar for digging and compacting the soil as you back fill
Posted: Thu Feb 17, 2011 10:33 pm
by dig dug dan
giles, your getting a bit excited again.
The hooks to bolt are not for "diy ers",or light gates (though your gates are lightweight) but are there as a facility to prevent exactly what i have described. Would gladly post some photos of what i mean. You are right, you do pre drill of course, but in softwood posts it creates a force that can and often does cause cracking in line with the bolt hole.
I am sure its fine on farm fencing, but on a domestic or commercial job, it may not be up to the job. Its not a structural issue, just a cosmetic one.
The hooks to bolt can also be used on brickwork and concrete walls, where a bolt will not suffice.
The sloping ground makes no difference, just buy a longer post.
I will be posting photos as soon as i get round to it. A busy family life with a six month old takes alot of my spare time!
I would welcome all the comments i get.
This is a forum where we can all share experience and knowledge, which i know many people appreciate.If you do not want comments on your photos,constructive or otherwise, don't post them on here.
Posted: Thu Feb 17, 2011 10:44 pm
by lutonlagerlout
GB_Groundworks wrote:Posts are in that deep to resist the pull from the gate, bottom hinge is just a guide top hinge carries the weight and is adjustable.
In my limited experience of 5 bar type gates it is visa versa ,bottom hinge takes the weight and the top is the guide
and we have always put the top hinge upside down to stop the thieving herberts nicking them
gates always look bad on a slope and there is no real way out of it,there are some shockers near me,but what can you do if your access is on a slope?
Posted: Thu Feb 17, 2011 10:56 pm
by haggistini
dont take offence take agate :laugh:
Posted: Fri Feb 18, 2011 2:25 pm
by rab1
personally think the gates look ok, and lets face it they will never fall down. Built for purpose and cost.
Posted: Fri Feb 18, 2011 4:09 pm
by michaelthegardener
if you want to pick holes in a job try this one for size ! :p
and personally id say the gate posts on the same level would look a tad better 
Posted: Fri Feb 18, 2011 6:01 pm
by dig dug dan
michael, it looks from the photo that the posts are not new but the panels are? in which case, all that can be done is replace the panels like for like. no problems there
Posted: Fri Feb 18, 2011 8:57 pm
by lutonlagerlout
panels are possibly the wrong way round
other than that looks fine
LLL
Posted: Fri Feb 18, 2011 9:20 pm
by michaelthegardener
well im glad you think it looks ok :p if you look close you can just make out 2 of the posts have got extra bits on the top cos they were to short lick of paint and they should look ok the posts were put in "new" but are from a 6 foot fence i replaced that blew down i wouldnt normally do work like that but its a house my sister an brother inlaw rent out and moneys tight for them at the mo so i had to do what i could all for free to .............
Posted: Fri Feb 18, 2011 9:37 pm
by digerjones
michaelthegardener wrote:but its a house my sister an brother inlaw rent out and moneys tight for them at the mo so i had to do what i could all for free to .............
michael,
do you mean your sister rents this house or she owns it and rents it out.