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Posted: Fri Jan 21, 2011 11:47 pm
by GB_Groundworks
Well we finished pitches last week but forgot to take photos, bit got some problems re drainage and the pond and permissions and environment agency etc so looking like we will have to change plan. But next door farm wants to start growing fruit on an epic scale so got a load of work lined up there and they need a 40,000 litre grey water tank installing so our drains going into that.
But yeah haha busy week
Edited By GB_Groundworks on 1295653694
Posted: Sat Jan 22, 2011 10:03 am
by digerjones
giles, thought you might have graded the type 1 out with that little dozer. that would sort the boys from the men.
Posted: Sat Jan 22, 2011 10:22 am
by GB_Groundworks
i will re grade on the big car park but it was a rush job to get it done as we got back there at 12 on friday, and the dozers up the other end track deep in sloppy mud didnt fancy cleaning all the tracks out. 3 home games today so they needed the parking, only told us on friday morning like hehe. its pretty easy you just push it out and then back grade it on float.
can stick the laser reciever on it as well id need it super precise. ill get some pics next week,
Posted: Sat Jan 22, 2011 6:26 pm
by dig dug dan
4 of the 8 blts holding the rim to the centre had come off
overloaded :p
I didn't spot any terram under that drive giles. naughty boy! ???
Posted: Sun Jan 23, 2011 1:50 pm
by GB_Groundworks
Why would it need it? Was dense hard packed clay?
Being an experienced ground worker can read the ground conditions, and excuse me if I'm wrong but I believe this site says that geotextile only required in unstable strata and with over 140mm of stone as well as half already with over 100mm from old drive meaning 240mm thick properly compacted with 1.6 ton vibrating roller, not one pass with a whacker. Then 75 mm of asphalt be the best drive on that rd.
Seems like you dan,
The Why...
Some contractors are suggesting or even recommending that residential driveways and even patios should incorporate a "membrane" for best results. Unfortunately, quite a few of the contractors recommending the inclusion of a membrane seem to be unsure as to the benefit it brings to the finished pavement. Some claim it is a weed-proofing measure, while others claim it helps reduce the amount of sub-base required, and yet others claim it can eliminate the need for a sub-base completely. We've also heard claims that it prevents the settling of bedding sand and even that it prevents flooding!
Several of these claims are spurious, to say the least, and some of them are pure fantasy. The true purpose of a geo-textile used in the construction of a typical block pavement is explained on the Geo-sheets page, but, to summarise, its primary purpose is as a separation membrane, preventing the sub-base or bedding material mixing with the underlying layers, which can result in excess settlement or pumping of a particularly weak sub-grade, which, in turn, can cause settlement and rutting.
Edited By GB_Groundworks on 1295790982
Posted: Sun Jan 23, 2011 4:48 pm
by lutonlagerlout
for about 1% cost to an average drive i use it
belt and braces IYKWIM
LLL 
Posted: Sun Jan 23, 2011 5:18 pm
by Dave_L
In the last 5 years I can count on one hand the jobs we've used terram on. Very rarely does it ever come out, keep tripping over the bloody roll down the side of our yard!
Posted: Sun Jan 23, 2011 6:28 pm
by GB_Groundworks
its the difference between having an understanding about the ground/strata and good and bad ground
or putting it in because you are unsure so gotta make sure, would make no difference on his job and price is here nor there in 4x100 metre rolls we get it in.
yeah on bad or wet ground use it but ive done plenty of larger specified car parks and never had an engineer ask for geotextile
but im not prepared to stand here and be called up for being "naughty" for not using something that had no purpose
Posted: Sun Jan 23, 2011 7:00 pm
by dig dug dan
as luton says, better to be safe than sorry.
in any case, it was only meant to be a joking comment. If it was a block paved drive, it would make a difference, but as its tarmac, then no.
apologies if any offence caused 
Posted: Sun Jan 23, 2011 7:49 pm
by rab1
Giles you are a naughty boy, 5 dutch girls in a seedy club.. your words :p
Posted: Sun Jan 23, 2011 7:53 pm
by GB_Groundworks
yeah im terribly naughty in that department rab but one thing i know is the earth lol
Posted: Sun Jan 23, 2011 8:02 pm
by lutonlagerlout
thing is Giles as you well know, you can be hypercritical of others work, you shouldn't give if you cant take it.
I have seen a 55yr old digger driver repairing block paving with a mallet and neat cement,experience didn't help his lack of knowledge
we are all here to help and to learn
i made a boo boo Friday and the ready mix driver put me right,he was bang on and my head was up my a*&e
i gave him a tenner drink for getting me out of the crap i would have been in had we poured without changes
we all have something to learn (well apart from the gaffer)
:laugh:
LLL
Edited By lutonlagerlout on 1295813006
Posted: Sun Jan 23, 2011 8:19 pm
by GB_Groundworks
yeah i can take it but there was no need to put it in, fine if id used 2" of crusher run or someother dodgy recycled aggregate etc but it was 20 tons of virgin dtp1 laid over hard packed clay that didnt even show the wheel marks of a 15 ton tailer.
would you put wall ties in with every brick because it makes the wall stronger?
Posted: Sun Jan 23, 2011 8:35 pm
by digerjones
lutonlagerlout wrote:i made a boo boo Friday
i gave him a tenner drink for getting me out of the crap i would have been in had we poured without changes
LLL
so come on tony what you been up to? :O
Posted: Sun Jan 23, 2011 8:36 pm
by lutonlagerlout
was that tractor running on red or white diesel?
<whistles nonchalantly as he stirs it up a bit more hehe>
:laugh:
lets give PEAS a chance
LLL