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Posted: Fri Jan 26, 2007 9:56 am
by simeonronacrete
Ronafix is white.
It may slightly darken the cured mortar, so try it first. Most admixtures will affect appearance in some way.
You can also use white as well os ordinary Portland cement to create a lighter colour render, if that's needed.
Let me know where you are/the site is and I'll give you the most local supplier; many TP's hold it, some Buildbase, WTBurdens, BBM Support Site, independents, and our own stock.
Posted: Fri Jan 26, 2007 10:22 am
by Ted
I am using Snowcrete (white cement) and several grades of Dolomite as the aggregate.
Dolomite: http://www.longrakespar.co.uk/details.php?ID=103
I was also planning on using hydraulic lime alongside the Snowcrete on the walls but probably not on the vanity unit.
So the mix for the walls is 1 Snowcrete; 1 lime; 6 aggregate.
The mix for the unit is 1 Snowcrete; 6 aggregate
Gauging water to have maximum amount of waterproofer added according to manufacturer's instructions.
The job is in Battersea in south London. But I tend to stay in Peckham/Dulwich when working on London. I tend to use Abbey Rose Buildbase in Peckham, Acre Lane Timber/BM in Brixton, Merton Timber in Dulwich and occasionally Atkins Plasterers on Wandsworth Road (Clapham) which is part of TP.
Posted: Fri Jan 26, 2007 1:39 pm
by simeonronacrete
Because you are adding lime (which is a plasticiser) into the mortar, this will reduce the amount of Ronafix (which amongst it's properties is being a plasticiser) you can add.
Unless you need the lime for some purpose other than as a plasticiser, I suggest you omit it.
The recommended amount of Ronafix to add to the mortar is 14 litres to 50kg of cement. You will also need 2 litres for every 4m2 of surface area as a bonding primer - one coat to the substrate, another coat between 1st and 2nd layer of render.
Travis Perkins, Peckham, 020 7639 5111.
If you need more technical/practical information it'll be easier to do it in a phone call than typing! 01279 638 700, Donna, Daniel, or Simeon.
Posted: Fri Jan 26, 2007 7:20 pm
by Ted
Cheers Simeon. I will give you a call.
On another note, you should try and get your stuff into Abbey Rose (Buildbase) in Peckham. I know loads of builders in Peckham and none of them ever use TP (or Jewsons) in Peckham (and few use Build Center). Abbey Rose is a big builder's merchants and it is permanently full of builders buying stuff. The occasional time I have been to TP in Peckham there are never any customers. Which is good when you are in a rush but you do wonder how they survive... well I suppose that explain the prices at TP!
Posted: Fri Jan 26, 2007 7:32 pm
by lutonlagerlout
no real point in adding lime to a cement mixture appart from plasticity ted,i use it for garden walls for that reason i.e. it improves workability much more so than febmix
hydraulic lime by definition sets under water so theoretically you could omit the cement altogether and just use hydraulic lime,aggregate and ronafix
i may be wrong in this thinking
you should see the tender we got through today
160 pages of specs for a 2 bed bungalow???
architects love it dont they hehe
good luck
LLL 
Posted: Sat Jan 27, 2007 11:21 am
by seanandruby
may sound dum ted. but could you do it in polystyrene first to see how the mould will turn out? then if she likes the effect go for it.
Posted: Sun Feb 11, 2007 7:04 pm
by Ted
Well I have done it and been given a bottle of champagne for it too as a prezzie.
I need to wait a week for the concrete to cure before polishing and sealing it and checking that it does not leak (touch wood).
It actually looks rather good. I will post a piccie once it is sealed. I may do oe for myself but in a more modern, less hippyish, design.
Posted: Sat Feb 24, 2007 12:13 pm
by Ted
Posted: Sat Feb 24, 2007 12:22 pm
by flowjoe
Nice work Ted, how long did it take you ?
You could have found the next big thing there, the Flintstone look. Funny how things go full circle 
Posted: Sat Feb 24, 2007 12:59 pm
by lutonlagerlout
very gaudi-esque ted,nice job mate
i think i saw summat like this in genoa italy
cheers LLL
Posted: Sat Feb 24, 2007 1:02 pm
by Ted
Very roughly it took 4 days.
1/4-1/2 a day to do the plumbing.
Almost 1 day to build the structure out of blocks
1/2 day to do scratch coat
1 long day to render using the white stuff
1/2 day to polish
A couple of hours to seal
Posted: Sat Feb 24, 2007 7:31 pm
by Dave_L
That's stunning Ted!
Fingers crossed here for no leaks
Posted: Sat Feb 24, 2007 10:01 pm
by Ted
It doesn't seem to leak.
Ideally I woud have re-adjusted the joists and put a steel in, and built off that as I built off timber joists which is not the best building practise but this was one of the more bizarre jobs I have done! Anyway, it is strongly reinforced and so, even if there is some slight timber movement, hopefully it should withstand it. The place where I did this job is worth a fortune...!!! One day a builder is going to have knock that sink to pieces as part of a redevelopmment to make flats. He will think it will only take a lad a half hour on kango to smash it up and bag it up...!!! But I reckon it will take almost 1/2 of a day for one lad to smash that thing up and get it out of the room!!! I would love to be a fly on the wall that day!!! It is very over engineered, apart from the floor joist bit.
Posted: Sun Feb 25, 2007 9:02 am
by Dave_L
Gotta love the windows - the look, well, COLD and DRAUGHTY!
Posted: Sun Feb 25, 2007 12:16 pm
by lutonlagerlout
they are crittals dave,a very underestimated window.
you never see them rot and they ar emega strong
cheers
LLL
