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Posted: Sat Oct 15, 2011 5:05 pm
by lutonlagerlout
you really need a structural engineer to do a site visit and design a raft for you
LLL
Posted: Sat Oct 15, 2011 7:06 pm
by GB_Groundworks
GB_Groundworks wrote:Likely it was built on a raft foundations as it was unsatiable ground because of the commercial gardening. Best to check with a structural engineer as the depth required for strips might be cheaper with what you save in excavation and concrete to go the engineer and raft footing route.
We did a raft on fill for 4 x2bed flats raft was only 150mm thick
30th november.....
Posted: Sat Oct 15, 2011 7:22 pm
by DNgroundworks
GB_Groundworks wrote:GB_Groundworks wrote:Likely it was built on a raft foundations as it was unsatiable ground because of the commercial gardening. Best to check with a structural engineer as the depth required for strips might be cheaper with what you save in excavation and concrete to go the engineer and raft footing route.
We did a raft on fill for 4 x2bed flats raft was only 150mm thick
30th november.....
eh?
Posted: Sat Oct 15, 2011 7:25 pm
by A.V.A.G.O
Thanks for the replies, phoned archietect, he will come round with engineer,, strips are dug, hope I don't need to go deeper 
It's times like this I wish I hadn't started, but it will better after a good nights sleep 
Posted: Sat Oct 15, 2011 7:55 pm
by GB_Groundworks
DNgroundworks wrote:GB_Groundworks wrote:GB_Groundworks wrote:Likely it was built on a raft foundations as it was unsatiable ground because of the commercial gardening. Best to check with a structural engineer as the depth required for strips might be cheaper with what you save in excavation and concrete to go the engineer and raft footing route.
We did a raft on fill for 4 x2bed flats raft was only 150mm thick
30th november.....
eh?
on the 30th november i said go for the raft and stuctural engineer we are now almost a year on and thats where hes at now....
having already dug the strip footings which are now a big problem as its now even more disturb ground.
gonna have to just get it finsihed avago, hope theres no more problems
Posted: Wed Oct 26, 2011 9:30 pm
by A.V.A.G.O
Thanks for the replies, Well all dug, drain bridged, BC happy . structural design done, Footings all backfilled with road stone and compacted, just waiting for the steel work.
The next thing before the connie is poured is to drill the exsisting slab, which is not a problem,
However I have never used the Hilti HIT-150-HY chem fixing, I guess its the same as any other, but Do i need to fill the entire 300mm deep hole with the resin ? the rebar is the h12 (ribbed).
thanks for looking
Posted: Wed Oct 26, 2011 10:34 pm
by lutonlagerlout
havent used the hilti one but its important when using any chemfix to use bellows to make sure all the dust is out of the hole
we normally drill a 15mm hole for an M12 bolt then half fill the hole,push the bolt in and hopefully you will get a small amount squirt out
top tip is keep the tubes of resin warm as they are easier to squirt
LLL
Posted: Wed Oct 26, 2011 10:55 pm
by GB_Groundworks
which hilti ones have you got the gun one or the capsule ones? they have full instructions on them anyway but yeah make sure you blow them out as tony says with the gun we half fill then tap the rebar in and normally squidges out
Posted: Fri Oct 28, 2011 4:55 pm
by A.V.A.G.O
Its the Gun type 2pac Picked up MD2000 kit £32 bellows/ brushs,gun and inserts that you load the 2pac tubes into- one nozzel.
Resin
AVAG
Posted: Mon Oct 31, 2011 8:19 pm
by A.V.A.G.O
Hello all again, I have to tape the two dpm together, Is there a special type of tape or will duck tape, or copidex ( double sided carpet tape ) do ?
Thanks for all the help so far,
Posted: Mon Oct 31, 2011 8:42 pm
by lutonlagerlout
we normally use 50mm gaffer tape with a 450mm lap on the dpm
LLL
Posted: Mon Oct 31, 2011 8:48 pm
by A.V.A.G.O
Gaffs tape it is,
Thanks LLC
Posted: Mon Oct 31, 2011 9:38 pm
by Mikey_C
i use this because it is cheaper and wider cause as i can't always run a straight line of tape between two sheets of sliding dpm. its just like electrical insulation tape, which is another option.
Posted: Tue Jan 24, 2012 11:19 am
by A.V.A.G.O
Its been a while, but the slab is in and now upto DPC, I now have to fill the cavity with a weak concreate mix 150mm below DPC,
would a 6/1 mix be to weak ?
I have looked at the calculators, but not sure which one to use to calculate the amount of balast and cement i need to order for filling the cavity 11mts long 100mm wide and 150mm deep.
I will get some pictures and upload, for some constructive criticism, I'm not a bricklayer that why its taking me so long, and work as well etc etc
thanks to all who have had input so far
Posted: Tue Jan 24, 2012 11:28 am
by lutonlagerlout
around 12 bags of ballast and 2 cement
down our way the leanmix has to be angled outwards and be no higher than 225mm below DPC
just a touch of water in each mix
LLL