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Posted: Mon Jun 11, 2007 10:14 am
by IanMelb
I think one of the main problems I've encountered with heavy blockwork is that it seems very difficult to 'tap' the block level and into place. Lighter bricks and the like can be tapped down into the mortar, heavy concerete blocks have already compressed the mortar so there's very little 'give' left in it.
This is one of those things where experience is almost a necessity - knowing how much mortar to lay down and in what fashion to give a level course is something that isn't just picked up in a day ... ???
Posted: Mon Jun 11, 2007 10:23 pm
by IanMelb
Seen one course of blockwork, seen 'em all
Note the 'creter' at the bottom right and the metal studding with protective bottles on it
The blocks were salvaged ones so had plenty of voids to fill with mortar round their edges. 
Posted: Mon Jun 11, 2007 10:57 pm
by lutonlagerlout
those perps look a tad large Ian,10-12 mm is recommended on blocks
see that bottom left hand corner where 2 blocks abutt each other??
when you start your next course start with a 330mm cut and a 110 mm cut next to it
this brings you back to half bond 
nice work
LLL
Posted: Tue Jun 12, 2007 7:03 am
by IanMelb
Yeah, some of them are up to 20mm (the ones round the studding are the worst) 
- it's lousy pointing as well, the mortar has spread a little cos the edges of the blocks are quite rounded.
I wouldn't be happy if I was going to build a masonry building off it, but it'll do for my timber frame (I hope)
I may tie it all together when it put the second course on. Maybe some strapping across the face of the blocks.
when you start your next course start with a 330mm cut and a 110 mm cut next to it
Is that a 330mm going 'up' (towards the wacker) and a 110 going 'right' ?
Posted: Tue Jun 12, 2007 7:36 am
by lutonlagerlout
Is that a 330mm going 'up' (towards the wacker) and a 110 going 'right' ?
affirmative
LLL