Posted: Tue Jun 23, 2009 9:52 pm
oioisonnyboy wrote:hello Bri
for what its worth you can forget jewsons...chocolate dildo anyone? :p
thought sonnyboy was sellin' :laugh:
thought sonnyboy was sellin' :laugh:
The Brew Cabin
Paving, Drainage and Hard-landscaping in Britain and Ireland
https://ext.pavingexpert.com/brewcabin/
Unhappy ending (greenhouse base) - I tried really hard
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thought sonnyboy was sellin' :laugh:
Posted: Tue Jun 23, 2009 11:33 pm
bri: you can get solid engineering bricks. They'll last longer than common brick (the recess is call a frog and for a single-course plinth you'd lay them frog down). Paving blocks will work as well in this application. They are cheaper than bricks but smaller, too (8" rather than 9" in old money).
Whatever you're laying, you'll need frost-proofer in the mortar as it will be quite exposed.
Get yourself a level and a string; don't try and use the frame to level the bricks. You'll cry with frustration and probably end up bending the frame!
Whatever you're laying, you'll need frost-proofer in the mortar as it will be quite exposed.
Get yourself a level and a string; don't try and use the frame to level the bricks. You'll cry with frustration and probably end up bending the frame!
Posted: Wed Jun 24, 2009 4:58 am
maybe you could tap under some various thickness shims, like a window fixer uses?
Posted: Wed Jun 24, 2009 7:22 am
Big Phil wrote:how much are the chocolate dildos?
dunno...I will ask my mate, he sells them in his shop along with the inflatable dartboards and motorbike ashtrays :p
what I meant was, in my experience jewson (and other big merchants) are about as much use as a pair of t*ts on a nun. for service, and price, and somebody who knows what they are talking about behind the counter, go to your local independent builders merchant.
Posted: Wed Jun 24, 2009 9:17 am
Rich H wrote:bri: you can get solid engineering bricks. They'll last longer than common brick (the recess is call a frog and for a single-course plinth you'd lay them frog down). Paving blocks will work as well in this application. They are cheaper than bricks but smaller, too (8" rather than 9" in old money).
Whatever you're laying, you'll need frost-proofer in the mortar as it will be quite exposed.
Get yourself a level and a string; don't try and use the frame to level the bricks. You'll cry with frustration and probably end up bending the frame!
hi mate, it was just the engineering bricks they had at the local Jewsons were all 'frogged'.
The frost proofer - would i need that if i used granolitic mortar instead of the sand cement mortar?
Thanks!
off out to get some cement and some concrete paving blocks.
Posted: Wed Jun 24, 2009 4:58 pm
hello again Bri
granolithic mortar is used elsewhere concrete repair or where it needs to be spread very thinly. It is not suiatble for bedding and jointing bricks with.
you are probably best using a general purpose mortar, 3 parts building sand to 1 part cement. keep it fairly stiff as the block paving will not suck the water out of it very much. If it is too wet then you will make a nasty mess and stain the blocks. make sure all the joints between the blocks are full of mortar, if there are any gaps, water will get in, moss, bugs etc and it will crack and become useless.
use a level and like I said in my last couple of posts, use a string line to keep the course level and straight. It is probably worth laying the blocks out dry before you mix up any mortar to see if you need any cuts at the corners.
granolithic mortar is used elsewhere concrete repair or where it needs to be spread very thinly. It is not suiatble for bedding and jointing bricks with.
you are probably best using a general purpose mortar, 3 parts building sand to 1 part cement. keep it fairly stiff as the block paving will not suck the water out of it very much. If it is too wet then you will make a nasty mess and stain the blocks. make sure all the joints between the blocks are full of mortar, if there are any gaps, water will get in, moss, bugs etc and it will crack and become useless.
use a level and like I said in my last couple of posts, use a string line to keep the course level and straight. It is probably worth laying the blocks out dry before you mix up any mortar to see if you need any cuts at the corners.
Posted: Wed Jun 24, 2009 5:41 pm
hi folks had a pm from a user on here who is coming over to do the job for me. I got all the sand, blocks and cement ready. 
I am glad because I was starting to dread trying to do this as a total nooob even with all your very helpful advice which I do thank you all for .
I am glad because I was starting to dread trying to do this as a total nooob even with all your very helpful advice which I do thank you all for .Posted: Wed Jun 24, 2009 5:49 pm
thanks for that oioi'. Why isn't grano mix suitable? You know the corner bit I spoke about ( a corner that I did )...well I used grano mix because it was described as a fine concrete on here somewhere. :gulp: and i wanted a fine mix rather than have 10mm aggregate. Now have I ballsed up? :uh o:
Posted: Wed Jun 24, 2009 6:14 pm
now you have used it don't worry,just don't do it again ,granno is used as a hard topping for floors and manhole bases,for your job its a waste off time and money MSH
,granno is used as a hard topping for floors and manhole bases,for your job its a waste off time and money MSH Posted: Wed Jun 24, 2009 10:36 pm
well dont mind paying a little extra for a lot better result.
Posted: Wed Aug 05, 2009 8:27 pm
Hi, all i would do is set up your string line, mix up your mortar and lay a square top edging kerbing flat, they ar'nt as high as a block paver,