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Posted: Tue May 15, 2012 9:37 pm
by EViS
dp.
Posted: Wed May 16, 2012 1:31 am
by lutonlagerlout
elvis
your joints are too tight
simples
either take the lot up and relay or grind them out like mr.haggis said
a diamond blade is 2 .8 mm wide
I know its not what you want to hear, but its the truth
LLL
Posted: Wed May 16, 2012 8:15 am
by Carberry
Can you not lever them across to reduce the bigger joints and increase the smaller joints?
Or are they stuck to the sub base?
Posted: Wed May 16, 2012 3:52 pm
by EViS
The joints vary in width because the slabs vary in width. Take your average slab at 220mm wide, at one end it can be 200 whilst the other it could be as much as 230. Hence why my spacings vary between 2 and 8mm on average.
The sub base is sharp/building/cement so most of the 80m2 of slabs are stuck and have no where to be shifted. As above, grinding is definitely not an option, if you saw these slabs in upfront, you would understand 
. But thank you for the advice nonetheless.
So, DNgroundworks suggested a cement slurry, but would a dry polymeric such as the Rompox Easy or VDW 840+ also work as well as the equivalent slurry?
Haggistini, you mention that KDS will "last a week", why is this? Where will it go?
Posted: Wed May 16, 2012 4:14 pm
by Carberry
EViS wrote:The joints vary in width because the slabs vary in width. Take your average slab at 220mm wide, at one end it can be 200 whilst the other it could be as much as 230. Hence why my spacings vary between 2 and 8mm on average.
The sub base is sharp/building/cement so most of the 80m2 of slabs are stuck and have no where to be shifted. As above, grinding is definitely not an option, if you saw these slabs in upfront, you would understand . But thank you for the advice nonetheless.
So, DNgroundworks suggested a cement slurry, but would a dry polymeric such as the Rompox Easy or VDW 840+ also work as well as the equivalent slurry?
Haggistini, you mention that KDS will "last a week", why is this? Where will it go?
Maybe phone NCC streetscape and speak to their rep?
From their site:
vdw 805
A high performance Paving Jointing Mortar specifically designed for paving with narrow joints down to <3mm for pedestrian and light vehicular traffic loads.
Posted: Wed May 16, 2012 4:35 pm
by DNgroundworks
i have no experience of cement slurry,s, it would work in the gaps but cleaning it would be the problem..
Also who on earth wants 80m2 of wood effect paving...its crap!
Posted: Wed May 16, 2012 4:39 pm
by ken
The KDS will wash out when it rains. Not so much in the 2mm joints, but the 8mm joints will fill with water and turn the sand fluid, resulting in mess all over the face of the paving.
Posted: Wed May 16, 2012 5:17 pm
by EViS
Took some pictures of the actual paving and the joints. Might be of more use for you guys to judge and advice upon as opposed to a manufacturers catalogue picture. Each picture has a £1 and 10p coin in a joint to provide some scale of the joint width ("where's wally" anyone?).
Narrowest joints (approx 20% of total area):
Widest joints (approx 20% of total area):
Majority of joints (approx 60%):
Posted: Wed May 16, 2012 5:49 pm
by DNgroundworks
Erm, im going to say a resin slurry that will be the easiest, strongest way, if it will penetrate the smallest gaps, i cant believe that the tolerances of the paving are that far out...that said ive never laid wanna be wood before.
Posted: Wed May 16, 2012 6:02 pm
by EViS
DNgroundworks wrote:Erm, im going to say a resin slurry that will be the easiest, strongest way, if it will penetrate the smallest gaps, i cant believe that the tolerances of the paving are that far out...that said ive never laid wanna be wood before.
I guess the resin slurry would need to be painstakingly 'poured' along each joint as opposed to tipping it onto the entire area and moving it around, correct? How much time do I have with a slurry before it starts going hard in the wheelbarrow?
You're right about the tolerance, its huge! But, I must say the paving is absolutely gorgeous and incredibly well made. Despite laying every slab myself, I still couldn't figure out a pattern that Marshalls used during manufacturing! The proof is in the pudding mind you, and every single person who has walked over it to date has thought it was real wood until it was pointed out to them that it was concrete .
Posted: Wed May 16, 2012 6:53 pm
by DNgroundworks
No you pre-wet the whole area first, then pour the slurry on after mixing with a paddle mixer in the bucket it comes in, then squeejy/brush it around wait for it to dry a bit then bursh any excess off, its really easy
Posted: Wed May 16, 2012 7:48 pm
by lutonlagerlout
A slurry will mess that up big time
what you have done wrong elvis is that you have more or less butt jointed them
i take it there is an unrestrained edge to all this?
mix sbr and cement till you get a wall paper paste consistency then carefully paint it over the exposed joints at the edge of this area
the joints are the ones on the vertical faces ,do not put it anywhere near the top
the following day when this has gone off ,fill with kds and leave ,top up as required
the bottom line is that you have laid it wrong and this is a diddle and fake it solution
all the best
LLL
Posted: Wed May 16, 2012 7:51 pm
by DNgroundworks
...in my last post i was suggesting a two part resin slurry
but..ditto what LLL said
Posted: Wed May 16, 2012 7:55 pm
by ilovesettsonmondays
brush some sawdust in :O
Posted: Wed May 16, 2012 8:34 pm
by haggistini
805 that's the shit!
Or you can bush in semi dry and soak the lot... and when the weeds, ants and moss kick in you'll get that true rustic / drift wood effect you may be after? but this will fail in no time!