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Posted: Thu Apr 15, 2010 8:26 pm
by DNgroundworks
Have you dug that lot out by hand?
Posted: Thu Apr 15, 2010 9:04 pm
by Dave_L
DNgroundworks wrote:Have you dug that lot out by hand?
Oh my back is twinging at the thought of it!!!!!
Posted: Thu Apr 15, 2010 9:51 pm
by Triggaaar
DNgroundworks wrote:i lay on 40-50mm 5-1 sharp sand/cement wettish mix, i would post some photos of a job were on at the moment of some indian sandstone we have laid that im especially proud of but my internet is cack....maybe another time.
Building sand is for building with, sharp sand is the stuff you want
Thanks, that's re-assuring. I noticed that if doing an unbound base you need sharp sand, but with a bound base you have the choice, and sharp sand seems harder to work with.
There's another thread just posted about a staining problem with black indian sandstone, so I am worried about having the mix too wet, even though it would be easier to lay.
Subbase looks good and i must say i realy like the brick path you have laid, wouldnt mind doing one like that myself!
Thanks Been struggling with the design today, not sure how to finish it off (my design on paper has the path sweeping through the patio, but the bricks are so close together I can't have a bend).
Have you dug that lot out by hand?
I'm afraid so. Not on my own at least, I have a mate helping. Getting a digger round the back is tricky and expensive.
Posted: Thu Apr 15, 2010 11:06 pm
by irishpaving
Trigg
You need to tidy up and get rid of your spoil. You don't want to be tracking over newly laid paving. Are you going to use an edge course around the patio. When the word "wettish" is used it means wet enough so when you squeese it in your hand it will stay together. Looking good and keep the chin up. The proud moment comes when you have completed and are able to say "i done all that meself"
Posted: Thu Apr 15, 2010 11:08 pm
by irishpaving
Trigg did you buy the whacker plate or hire... How much was it?
Posted: Thu Apr 15, 2010 11:48 pm
by Triggaaar
irishpaving wrote:You need to tidy up and get rid of your spoil. You don't want to be tracking over newly laid paving.
Easier said than done. There's a huge amount of soil etc to remove (I didn't realise the garden was higher in the middle than the ends) and I thought it'd be best to get a 20yd skip when I'm ready to fully load it, I didn't want to hire one skip after another. That said, the skip comes on Tuesday and I won't be going over any freshly laid bricks or slabs.
Are you going to use an edge course around the patio.
I don't think so, it's one of the design decisions I've struggled with. If I did I'd simply use the bricks, keeping the mix of materials down, but I think going without is a bit more old school a natural looking.
When the word "wettish" is used it means wet enough so when you squeese it in your hand it will stay together.
I've seen descriptions here on dry (using the moisture that's already in the sand and ground), damp (or moist) and wet. It's just this picture framing I'm concerned about, and I assume that it's more likely to happen with a wetter mix.
Looking good and keep the chin up. The proud moment comes when you have completed and are able to say "i done all that meself"
I can't claim that much, I'm getting help - just cheap help as I couldn't afford professionals.
Trigg did you buy the whacker plate or hire... How much was it?
Hired, £38+ vat for a week, but think I'll need it twice (time to load the skip before starting the second patio).
Posted: Fri Apr 16, 2010 5:39 pm
by DNgroundworks
Personally trigg i reckon sharp sand is easier to work with, it spreads an levels easier than building/soft sand as it doestnt stick or clump together as bad, and it sets waaay harder imo. Picture framing in my experience only occurs when the mortar is sopping wet and has a high cement content, dont do it dry and dont do it p*ss wet a happy medium somwere in between is required like the others have said.
Posted: Fri Apr 16, 2010 7:23 pm
by Triggaaar
First slabs down, harder than I'd hoped. I found it hard to level the slabs, they are very uneven (riven). Perhaps I used too dry a mix, and maybe it would have been easier with a wetter mix.
Posted: Tue May 25, 2010 8:27 pm
by mickg
thats a very neat job Triggaaar
well done
Posted: Tue May 25, 2010 9:02 pm
by Triggaaar
Thank you Mick. I just need to stop any rockers.
I'm reading the Romex page, and the thread on the forum about Rompox Easy looking rubbish after a year (because it was just brushed in, as per instructions, and it's soaked up dirt and won't clean with a jet wash). I've also spoken to NCC who supply GftK and I think they recommended vdw800.
Can anyone recommend the most suitable of these products (ie, be good enough, but not cost a fortune)?
Thanks
Posted: Tue May 25, 2010 10:03 pm
by lutonlagerlout
i reckon easipoint would do best in your situation trig
as for the rockers ideally take them up and redo now before its too late
you cant rely on pointing to stop rocking 100%
other than that it looks a wonderful job,you should be very proud
LLL
Posted: Tue May 25, 2010 10:14 pm
by mickg
if they are rocking now then they are not going to get any better so i agree with taking up any flags what are rocking and to re bed them, its best to do it now before you point them
Posted: Tue May 25, 2010 10:33 pm
by Triggaaar
Oh yes don't worry, I won't point them while they're rocking, I'll fix them first. But I noticed one today that definitely wasn't rocking before, so I assume it's started rocking because it wasn't pointed and has moved a little. So I'm worried that more and more will start rocking if I don't point them soon.
Who makes easipoint? - ok, so easipoint make it But which one to go for? Tried searching the forum, but only found one other reference.
Posted: Thu May 27, 2010 11:08 am
by Triggaaar
Ok, so I'm planning to order Easipoint Std today - £272 for a 55sq m patio hurts, but I don't suppose Romex is much/any cheaper.
For my light/medium grey patio, I'm thinking dark grey pointing - any colour advice?