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Posted: Mon Oct 26, 2009 8:39 pm
by scottieland
Interested in your views.....
I bought Rompox Easy (Basalt) after it was HIGHLY recommended by the seller as being elite in the pointing range to use on Marshalls Argent smooth paving. Applied the Rompox as directed by the seller, only to find it stained every flag in a 'picture framed' manner. The Rompox Power Clean failed to remove the staining, along with numerous other attempts using chemicals, sandpaper, jet wash etc.
Marshalls sadly declined in helping me to find a resolution as the Rompox was not supplied by them.
This has left the customer furious, me out of pocket and currently scratching my head to find a solution.......
Ideas????
Thanks
Posted: Mon Oct 26, 2009 10:09 pm
by Pablo
Scottie it's not the Rompox thats caused the picture framing it's the flags themselves. Marshalls flags are hellish for it.
Posted: Mon Oct 26, 2009 11:47 pm
by Bob_A
I'm not speaking through experience but only from what I've read on the main site.
http://www.pavingexpert.com/layflag3.htm
Although picture framing can, and does, occur with flags laid on other bedding materials, most cases are seen on flags that are porous or permeable, that have mortared joints, and that have been laid on a full bed of high slump mortar or concrete
I know your joints were not mortared but perhaps it's a case of porous/permable flags layed on a wettish bedding layer?
Posted: Tue Oct 27, 2009 6:36 am
by msh paving
why not contact rompox and look to them for help MSH 
Posted: Tue Oct 27, 2009 7:21 am
by lutonlagerlout
i think in any case like this its best to give it 6 weeks to see what happens
scrubbing and applying other chemicals is unlikely to help in the first instance
romex would not cause what you have mentioned so it must either be the bedding or the flags themselves
btw I like easipoint now,goes off rock hard and nice even colour
regards LLL
Posted: Tue Nov 03, 2009 11:03 am
by Tony McC
I was supposed to be working on some trials for the Romex parent company this week, among which would be an attempt to replicate picture framing on certain types of granite and sandstone flags. However, a bereavement within the host company has caused these trials to be postponed, so we're no wiser now than we were last month.
From the very simplistic testing I've done, the only times I've been able to effect picture framing in a G603 granite has been when they've been kept dry and then laid on a wet cement-rich bed. I did manage to achieve an effect something like picture framing by applying an overly wet resin mortar (using 5 litres of water per mix in place of the recommended 2 litres) to the same stone without pre-wetting the surface. In this last case, the effect was negligible and I couldn't repeat it subsequently.
I can't comment on Scottieland's situation, as I haven't seen it, but my gut reaction is that it is likely to be something other than the resin mortar.
Posted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 10:07 pm
by mark555
I'm hoping to point the patio next weekend with romex or ncc 850.
I'm having to rake some of the joints out to get a deeper joint. Is 3 cm really nesesary?? My joints are approx 10 - 15mm wide.
Also what is the best tool for raking the joints out with - using a bit of wood at present - it's doing the job, but is there something better? Thanks, Mark
Posted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 12:25 am
by Bob_A
3cm deep is the manufacturers recommendation but although there's no guarantees it's likely you'll get away with less.
Have a read here
http://ext.pavingexpert.com/cgi-bin....hl=30mm
Not sure what makes the best raking tool. I've been using screwdrivers, trowels and all manner of things and none of them seem efficient.
Posted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 12:45 am
by Bob_A
mmmmmm this has got me thinking.
Rompox Easy is for joints with a minimum width of 8mm.
Although most of my joints are 10mm or more there's a couple of places where due to sandstone tolerances and my laying skills they are a bit on thin side.
Like I say the majority of joints are fine but should I open up these odd ones with an angle grinder?
I can hardly see it making much difference for say 7mm joints but is there a thickness where it becomes worth doing?
Posted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 8:30 am
by cookiewales
to be on the safe side make your thin joints deeper this will do the trick use a angle grinder make sure you have full glasses on you need to look at what you are doing make a cut in middle of joint then use thin chissel to rake out as you get better you can proceed to two cuts side by side makes life alot easier if you can hover out joints. clean is good pick a good day some sun to warm up the paving will help the curing
Posted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 9:34 am
by Bob_A
Cheers Cookie
Posted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 10:04 am
by Tony McC
If it's just a few joints that are 8mm or smaller, then you should be OK. Due to the aggregate size, once you get down to 6mm or below, it becomes difficult to fill the joints in the normal manner, and you may have to press the material into the joint using the blade of a trowel. Obviously, the more narrow joints you have, the more labour intensive this becomes, which is why the usual recommendation is minimum 8mm joints.
There are similar products specifically for narrower joints. GftK have their VDW 805 which can be used in joints down to a worrying 3mm width.
Posted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 4:38 pm
by lutonlagerlout
I would always recommend trying to push the pointing in to the joint to ensure a full joint
just sweeping it over will invariably lead to voids
and cookie is right about the hoover,we use a henry for this,dont use your wife's dyson bob :;):
LLL
Posted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 5:22 pm
by Bob_A
I've got an old Rowenta vacuum, a bit like a Henry but without the smiley face. 
I've just got home and had another look at the joints, after reading Tony's comments I don't think I have to much too worry about.
Will take your advise and take the time to push the stuff in.
Just need to get the combination of time off work and good weather to get some more slabs/flags down!
Posted: Sun Dec 06, 2009 4:38 pm
by mark555
Completed the poining today with vdw 800 slurry.
The tempreture is towards the lower end of the recommended scale - does anyone know how long it will take to go off - been down a few hours and its still soft?
Thanks, Mark