Yep, it'll be fine. Just make sure you have a stone or concrete cutting disc, not a metal cutting disc, and be prepared for the blades to wear down quite quickly.
And don't forget the mask and goggles!
Let me know how you get on.
Cutting curves
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Nigel
- Posts: 10
- Joined: Wed Jun 19, 2002 3:33 pm
- Location: Bracknell
Thanks! At the moment I've just filled nearly 2 x 6 cu yd skips with the original "patio" and some of the clay soil. Physically I'm not quite a wreck yet but have been surprised by the amount of work & planning that needs to go in - I'm rapidly building a healthy respect for the those of you that do this full time!
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84-1093879891
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Nigel
- Posts: 10
- Joined: Wed Jun 19, 2002 3:33 pm
- Location: Bracknell
Hi Tony,
I'm at the stage where I've dug out the foundations and I need to make a decision on the subbase and type of bedding which might mean I have to dig some more! I read a couple of books on paving before finding your website and I've read not necessarily conflicting info, it could be there's more then one way of achieving a good result, I'd just like to get your view!
I've got a heavy clay soil & I've read that this is "reactive", but seen nothing to clarify what that actually means in relation to laying slabs on top of it. Anyway, the books have recommended using a 75 mm subbase to avoid this problem. I couldn't get any DTp1 so bought some Scalpings which is a redish colour and seems to have some sort of natural resin which seems to help it bind together quite well. Some books have recommended using Mortar as the bedding mixture rather than a dry bed of sand cement as detailed on your website and also in one of the books. Could you explain what are the pros' and cons' of both types of bedding?
I'm at the stage where I've dug out the foundations and I need to make a decision on the subbase and type of bedding which might mean I have to dig some more! I read a couple of books on paving before finding your website and I've read not necessarily conflicting info, it could be there's more then one way of achieving a good result, I'd just like to get your view!
I've got a heavy clay soil & I've read that this is "reactive", but seen nothing to clarify what that actually means in relation to laying slabs on top of it. Anyway, the books have recommended using a 75 mm subbase to avoid this problem. I couldn't get any DTp1 so bought some Scalpings which is a redish colour and seems to have some sort of natural resin which seems to help it bind together quite well. Some books have recommended using Mortar as the bedding mixture rather than a dry bed of sand cement as detailed on your website and also in one of the books. Could you explain what are the pros' and cons' of both types of bedding?
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84-1093879891
The only difference between 'mortar bedding' and the semi-dry sand/cement I recommend is the amount of water in the mix.
When it comes to laying, though, the semi-dry prevents the flags 'floating' to incorrect levels, and make any remedial work much, much easier. If you wnat to use mortar, keep it as stiff as possible - a sloppy wet mix is a bloody nightmare. Most contractors prefer to lay on a 'just damp' mix - it's quicker and cleaner than mortar.
The mortar bedding is favoured by DIYers and those with not much experience. The only time it is used on site is on special contracts that have extenuating circumstances, and then a lime-based mortar is used, not a traditional cement mortar.
When it comes to laying, though, the semi-dry prevents the flags 'floating' to incorrect levels, and make any remedial work much, much easier. If you wnat to use mortar, keep it as stiff as possible - a sloppy wet mix is a bloody nightmare. Most contractors prefer to lay on a 'just damp' mix - it's quicker and cleaner than mortar.
The mortar bedding is favoured by DIYers and those with not much experience. The only time it is used on site is on special contracts that have extenuating circumstances, and then a lime-based mortar is used, not a traditional cement mortar.