Page 2 of 3
Posted: Tue Jan 28, 2014 6:02 pm
by dig dug dan
Terram laid underneath usually sorts out the rutting
Posted: Tue Jan 28, 2014 8:01 pm
by lutonlagerlout
i am starting to wonder if conventional CBP is good enough for pick ups
my drive has marginally started to rut after 18 months
as the illustrious mickg mentioned when fully loaded there might be 3.5 tonne loading on the wheels
i have done many drives for cars with no problems,but where i park the cabstar there is perhaps 5 mm ruts 
did all the subbase at 150mm and sand at 30-35
LLL
Posted: Tue Jan 28, 2014 8:42 pm
by dig dug dan
Did you use terram tony?
thing is, the 3.5 tonnes is spread evenly ovef the four wheels
its like I was saying to the tyre fitters the other day. They complained my truck would be too heavy for their jacks to lift one corner to change a wheel. They are not lifting up the whole 3.5 tonnes. Basic physics seems to be lost on some people!
Posted: Wed Jan 29, 2014 10:11 am
by Tony McC
The CBP driveway at my old house carried Tranny Vans along with <spit>Renaults and VWs for years with barely a blink. When I did the Driveway Refurb Project I struggled to find anything to repair.
I know we have a solid sub-grade in this part of the world (glacial boulder clay that needs a pick to shift!) so no geo-textile was used, but 150mm of sub-base which was compacted to refusal seems to have done the trick well enough.
I would have no qualms about specc'ing CBPs for a van-infested pavement. In fact, it would probably be my pavinng of choice!
Posted: Wed Jan 29, 2014 11:48 am
by lutonlagerlout
i reckon the biggest problem for me was that fact that from garage threshold to the pavement line was 100% flat
I put drains both ends,but due to the mrs motor I have to reverse into the exact same area every time
where she parks her car all is still flat but my cabstar has definitely left slight indentations
I know the physics of it dan but ,the reality are the settlement is there
nobody but me and the lads on this forum would notice but it affects my OCD
LLL
Posted: Wed Jan 29, 2014 4:41 pm
by mike builder/landscaper
I have done a few drives, where the vehicle is running and sitting in the same place continuously, what works for me is 300mm type 1 that is rolled down with a twin vibrating ride on roller. Then we mix a dryish concrete mix 4/1, and spread it where the most vulnerable areas are. Whacked down, screeded and left 20mm below finished level. Never ever had a problem. 1 drive we did 6 yrs ago has a very large mobile home on it, still as level as the day it went in.
Posted: Wed Jan 29, 2014 8:30 pm
by lutonlagerlout
twin rollers are great but on new driveway work where you have drains etc they are liable to cause damage
i do not understand the 20mm bit mike?
LLL
Posted: Wed Jan 29, 2014 8:38 pm
by mickg
so you can still add 20mm of sand over the concrete mix and still be able to screed the sand to the correct fall, if the concrete was too high this would not be possible, we do a lot of driveways the same way
spot on with twin rollers, gets the MOT down tighter but you have to be careful of any services
Posted: Wed Jan 29, 2014 10:48 pm
by GB_Groundworks
the single drum rollers are ok as well twin drum pedestrians are a bit old school now
our tvr800 terex roller has a compaction force of about 12.5kn
the remote controlled rammax trench roller we hire has 78kn compaction force 
haha its awesome
tony if the drains are vulnerable then they should be concreted in as if they were prone to a roller they;ll be prone to traffic damage
Posted: Wed Jan 29, 2014 11:10 pm
by lutonlagerlout
what i meant was and i probably put it wrong
if you say dig out day 1
day 2 install acos and edgings etc to soakaways
day 3 is stone up and wack
I wouldnt like to be using a wacking great roller next to concrete less than 24 hours old
I know some stone up before drainage so maybe that works for them
LLL
Posted: Thu Jan 30, 2014 7:18 am
by lemoncurd1702
mike builder/landscaper wrote:I have done a few drives, where the vehicle is running and sitting in the same place continuously, what works for me is 300mm type 1 that is rolled down with a twin vibrating ride on roller. Then we mix a dryish concrete mix 4/1, and spread it where the most vulnerable areas are. Whacked down, screeded and left 20mm below finished level. Never ever had a problem. 1 drive we did 6 yrs ago has a very large mobile home on it, still as level as the day it went in.
How deep is this spread of concrete and the 20mm below is this from finished base level.
Twin rollers are all very well but for some jobs on traditional houses with a 3m wide drive running up the side of the house to the garage with up to 4 inspection chambers of 40 year old dubious brickwork.
I'll stick with wacker plate.
If the base needs beefing up I dust each layer with cement. water it add next layer and wack, the cement pumps through and gives a solid base which is still semi permeable.
Posted: Thu Jan 30, 2014 10:55 am
by Tony McC
A rampactor is a bloody useful tool for getting full compaction in corners and awkward areas around drainage and services. Better than most plates when you have limited working room.
Posted: Thu Jan 30, 2014 4:58 pm
by lutonlagerlout
proof of what we all knew that us southern softies are getting it big style while the north basks in relative desert like conditions
LLL
Posted: Fri Jan 31, 2014 7:22 pm
by williams
Good god that's horrific!
Let's hope we have a summer like last year, was like being in Florida :p (almost 
)
Posted: Fri Jan 31, 2014 11:47 pm
by lutonlagerlout
pity the lads in the black areas
south coast and M4 corridor
LLL