Page 2 of 3
Posted: Thu Nov 08, 2012 6:15 pm
by Tony McC
The geo-textile should be OK but I'd like to see more concrete at the back of those edgings. I'm sure what you have there is adequate, but for future reference, reckon on at least 100mm width at its narrowest.
Posted: Thu Nov 08, 2012 9:24 pm
by gonchy
thank for the advice on the concrete ive got a 100mm plus under and 100mm past the edging but then it tapers up to the haunching but will put more no in future my last question hopfully i got the geotextile for under my sub base but now i see people putting under the sand instead or even both like this image
so am i okay to just go under my sub base or do i need more for under sand as well
many thx for all comments and advice
james
Posted: Fri Nov 09, 2012 10:58 am
by Tony McC
Oh: I do NOT like that! Why two layers of geo-textile? WTF is that achieving?
Research done in Western Australia has shown that a geotextile sheet between laying course and sub-base can (and often does) act as a 'slip membrane', enabling the paving to literally slide over the sub-layers. It prevents interlock between laying courses and sub-base.
Now, while this may not be a big issue of patios and driveways, it is a major concern on commercial projects and is now cosidered to be bad practice.
I know there are certain projects where such a membrane can be justified due to exceptional conditions, but they are very, very few and far between. I doubt very much that your project qualifies.
Posted: Sun Nov 11, 2012 7:22 pm
by gonchy
sorry one last question in the photo below when the local council done my drop kerb they haunched right up to about 20mm from the top of the kerbplus i have to re set some of them as the digger damage them
so do i just remove some of the concrete or all of the haunch my other concern is the earth below it or is that okay just wrried about the kerbs sinking when drive is complete
many thx james
Posted: Tue Nov 13, 2012 2:54 pm
by Tony McC
Are you wanting to lay block right up to the back of the kerb? If so, it's easiest to strip saw the existing haunching to a depth of 50-60mm, roughly 50mm apart, and then chisel off the excess concrete to allow the edge course blocks to be laid onto a shallow mortar bed,
Posted: Tue Nov 13, 2012 11:18 pm
by mickg
looking at the photo above the concrete edging are up and down and all over the place so I would remove all of them and re bed them to the correct height replacing any what are damaged or for a more aesthetically pleasing finish to the eye I would install new concrete edging on a minimum 150mm concrete bed leaving the width of a trowel between each one so they don't spall the edge when a vehicle drives over them
Posted: Wed Nov 14, 2012 7:43 am
by Tony McC
....but if they are road kerbs, he can't legally touch them without the consent of the local highways dept., the appropriate insurances and compliance with Streets & Roadworks Act.
It would be borderline legal/illegal to reduce the haunching concrete, but to lift and re-lay road kerbs without consent is a criminal offence, far more serious than a civil offence or tort. I'd be very suprised if a local authority took legal action over nibbling away at the backing, but action for unauthorised adjustments to a kerb line on a public highway are fairly regular, ranging from mandatory re-instatement by an approved contractor at an inflated price all of which is to be borne by the resident through to court action against repeat offenders, although these are, by definition, almost exclusively so-called contractors.
Posted: Wed Nov 14, 2012 5:03 pm
by mickg
I totally agree with you Tony if they are road kerbs but how I saw the photo is the car is parked on the pavement and the driveway is removed hence the depth on the inside of the haunching so it must be the edging what showing up and down adjacent to the pavement and his driveway
I know some contractors would leave them as they are and just block pave to it but I always either re bed them or replace with new edgings to a line so the driveway and the edgings straight
Posted: Wed Nov 14, 2012 6:10 pm
by gonchy
the cars parked on the drop kerb its only a month old if that they sunk when the machine dug out the drive 
this is why im worried about them moving more as they are now loose so need to straighten them some how could blame the people that dug it out as they dug and remove all the soil for a nothing
Posted: Wed Nov 14, 2012 6:41 pm
by Tony McC
Who, if you know, did the kerbs? If they've settled as much as that, then the council *might* just be interested in putting it right before you install your block paving.
Posted: Wed Nov 14, 2012 7:31 pm
by gonchy
not sure it was one of there contractors they done it while we was at work was going to contact the council but it took 18 weeks for the inspector to come out when we apllyed for it then another 8 weeks after payment for them to do it so could take for ever for them to sort out and they may charge so stuck really
Posted: Sat Nov 17, 2012 8:00 pm
by gonchy
ive been looking at different pavers and just wanted to know are pavers in 3 differnt sizes like the link below a lot harder to lay than all one size
thanks again
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm....d7f55f0
Posted: Sun Nov 18, 2012 11:29 am
by Tony McC
They're no harder to lay but getting your head around a pattern or layout can be a bit more awkward, especially with that product.
I see they are being flogged by "Clearance Paving" which is a pseudonym used by Brett to get shut of end-of-range stock and seconds, so if you bid on that, make sure they are NOT seconds. Seconds in block paving are usually a false economy, given that the good stuff is relatively cheap.
Posted: Sun Nov 18, 2012 7:45 pm
by gonchy
thank you for the advice tony have contacted them and they are just old stock so got them for £300 in the end which is cheaper than the wickes stuff i was gonna use 
so will just have to get my head around the pattern
also just to say waht a great site this is im a roofing carpenter by trade and so its nice to see how other trade opperate and offer advice to each other not just first timers like me
thx again
Posted: Tue Dec 04, 2012 8:04 pm
by gonchy
almost done but ive hit a snag when started jointing the drive which i thiught was dry but the joints wasnt so not sure how much sand made it into the joints any way i carried on compacting gave it 3 passes in all directions then removed all the wet sand so the question is can i use the drive then resand when its dry
