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Posted: Sat Jul 18, 2009 7:13 am
by Dave_L
Indeed; many of our leads come from recently completed jobs and not from any form of advertising. I always try to ask "Where did you find us?" when estimating.
If they can't or are unwilling to demonstrate their recent works (and if you can confirm it with the householder) then I'd steer well clear of them.
Posted: Sun Jul 19, 2009 11:45 am
by 5tumped
I’m trying to put together a proper spec list (copied from Tony’s list on this site) and have so far come up with this pretty standard spec:
Block Paving
• Excavate to reduced depth of at least 200mm below finished level (350mm below dpc) and cart all spoil to licensed, off-site tip.
• Excavate any soft spots in sub-grade as required and dispose.
• Supply, lay and compact minimum of 150mm of DTp1 crushed stone sub-base material to falls and levels.
• Supply and lay on 100mm concrete bed and haunch, 200x100x50mm block pavers as edge restraint, to lines and curves.
• Supply and lay on 35-50mm zone 2 sand bed, 200x100x50mm block pavers to falls and levels.
• Pattern is to be 45° (Stretcher) Herringbone. Include all cuts and sealing of joints with silica jointing sand.
• Blocks to be Marshalls Driveline 50 (Bracken/Burn Ochre blend), Edge course - Marshalls Driveline 50 (Charcoal)
• Clear site of all debris and rubble on completion and make good.
• Inspect paving after 4-6 weeks and top up any empty joints with dry silica jointing sand.
• All Concrete Block Paving to comply with BS6717:Part1 1986
Drainage
As with all my previous posting the main issue is with drainage. I think that the most practical option is just to try and get rid of as much water as possible onto the highway (as it does now but via underground pipes rather than just falling onto the surface). I’m trying to be a bit proactive with suggestions now so I’m thinking about the following:
• Install a French drain system to the rear perimeter of the drive where it meets the step to the rear garden (where the overflow water from the back garden patios runs to).
• Connect the two existing SW downpipes to a new 4� domestic pipe (osma) that will run underground the new proposed driveway down to the threshold of the drive into either:
• an Aco drainage system (but I note lutonlagerlout’s earlier comments)
• other linear or square grating system
As always very grateful for any advice and suggestions.
Thanks
PS - I appreciate it is not ideal and not standard practise but in this situation what exactly is the downside to having a liner drain as an overflow?
Posted: Wed Jul 22, 2009 5:42 pm
by 5tumped
5tumped wrote:I’m trying to put together a proper spec list (copied from Tony’s list on this site) and have so far come up with this pretty standard spec:
Block Paving
• Excavate to reduced depth of at least 200mm below finished level (350mm below dpc) and cart all spoil to licensed, off-site tip.
• Excavate any soft spots in sub-grade as required and dispose.
• Supply, lay and compact minimum of 150mm of DTp1 crushed stone sub-base material to falls and levels.
• Supply and lay on 100mm concrete bed and haunch, 200x100x50mm block pavers as edge restraint, to lines and curves.
• Supply and lay on 35-50mm zone 2 sand bed, 200x100x50mm block pavers to falls and levels.
• Pattern is to be 45° (Stretcher) Herringbone. Include all cuts and sealing of joints with silica jointing sand.
• Blocks to be Marshalls Driveline 50 (Bracken/Burn Ochre blend), Edge course - Marshalls Driveline 50 (Charcoal)
• Clear site of all debris and rubble on completion and make good.
• Inspect paving after 4-6 weeks and top up any empty joints with dry silica jointing sand.
• All Concrete Block Paving to comply with BS6717:Part1 1986
Drainage
As with all my previous posting the main issue is with drainage. I think that the most practical option is just to try and get rid of as much water as possible onto the highway (as it does now but via underground pipes rather than just falling onto the surface). I’m trying to be a bit proactive with suggestions now so I’m thinking about the following:
• Install a French drain system to the rear perimeter of the drive where it meets the step to the rear garden (where the overflow water from the back garden patios runs to).
• Connect the two existing SW downpipes to a new 4� domestic pipe (osma) that will run underground the new proposed driveway down to the threshold of the drive into either:
• an Aco drainage system (but I note lutonlagerlout’s earlier comments)
• other linear or square grating system
As always very grateful for any advice and suggestions.
Thanks
PS - I appreciate it is not ideal and not standard practise but in this situation what exactly is the downside to having a liner drain as an overflow?
Any (polite) comments or further suggestions? ??? Thanks.
Posted: Wed Jul 22, 2009 6:56 pm
by lutonlagerlout
looks thorough,might frighten off the cowboys 
nothing wrong there mate,although i am a fan of kerbs or edgings,dont really like blocks laid on crete then haunched
LLL
Posted: Wed Jul 22, 2009 7:43 pm
by irishpaving
yeah i agree wiv LLL. much better systems compare to just haunchin...
Posted: Thu Jul 23, 2009 1:05 pm
by 5tumped
Great, thanks for all the replies. I will also look into kerbs or edgings rather than haunching then (and will post back when I've had the job done).
Posted: Sun Jul 26, 2009 2:43 pm
by Tony McC
Again, I've been waylaid for a few days so I'm late returning to this thread.
Contractors in CF37 - see PM
Your spec: If that has been copied from this site, then I need to get it updated as the reference to BS 6717 is well out of date.
Blocks are now manufactured to BS EN 1338 - however, the 50mm blocks are borderline. Some meet/exceed 1338, some fall just short, but if you're using Driveline, there won't be an problem. More importantly, and what you should focus on, the blocks need to be laid to BS 7533:3 2005
Posted: Wed Aug 12, 2009 6:08 pm
by 5tumped
Tony, thanks for the further info and for the contractor list, it's greatly appreciated.