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Posted: Fri Mar 20, 2009 5:48 am
by seanandruby
the joints are better tapered but can be pointed. how wide are the joints? if they are too wide more than 30ml then tapering is the best optio
Posted: Fri Mar 20, 2009 9:42 am
by Rich H
But if those are the normall 200mm high kerbs they're not easy to cut well into a taper shape. If the radius is tight you can get tapered kerbs but they can be really expensive.
A picture would be really helpful.
As for the '30 years' defence - such experience should lead to a more professional approach, not a lesser one.
Also, as LLL says, you can set up a limited co. for £30 - most trades used to do so because it was more tax efficient. Now it isn't - just loads more paperwork. I'm just about to revert to sole trader status because I'm sick to death of the admin and heavy tax of being ltd.
Posted: Fri Mar 20, 2009 11:03 am
by Fly
Thanks guys - I will mention this to him - re tappering. Also when you say tappering - can you tell me what exactly this is, and what materials would he use to do this?
I am a bean counter and would be willing to assist anyone here on their admin and accounts if need be.
Thanks again for your help - your board does really put some trust back into your trade. - so thank you
As an update - I had a heated discussion with him yesterday as he turned up looking for a cash advance - when clearly this was not agreed. He also mentioned that I only pay a penny when I am happy with the job and his literature clearly states - invoice settlement upto 3 months!
So I told him, I am happy to make an advance to him via a cheque for his work and to recognise that as a small company cash flow is important for him, but the rest will be payable on an invoice - and may be after the 3 months.
He then came out to which I construed as a threat. He stated that - no one has ever coned him and he has never coned anyone - if I were to cone him, he would rather go to prison. - I was like - what are you talking about - who is coning who here?, where did the prison come from etc....
He probably makes better money that I do as a bean counter....:p
Posted: Fri Mar 20, 2009 12:18 pm
by Tony McC
Posted: Fri Mar 20, 2009 12:28 pm
by Fly
Tony - that is excellent - exactly what I am looking for.
Right based on a quick read of that - this chap is playing me and I am not happy at all. Surely if one was doing a drive they would have covered the manholes with a cover?? This guys has not done anything like that.
Any advise how I should go around to ensuring he does this properly??
Posted: Fri Mar 20, 2009 1:48 pm
by Fly
Spoken to the guys and he stated that he will fill it with some black mortar. I have asked him to ensure the mortar has a SBK resin to ensure toughness.... and as usual its always - yes sure
Posted: Fri Mar 20, 2009 2:01 pm
by Amogen
I assume from you mentioning "Black" mortar that the edgings are black???
Posted: Fri Mar 20, 2009 2:12 pm
by Fly
yes
Posted: Fri Mar 20, 2009 2:41 pm
by Tony McC
To avoid confusion and misunderstanding, it's worth drawing up a 'snagging list' of all the items that leave you underwhelmed. Most jobs involve a degree of snagging, and by compiling a list, the customer knows what will be fixed and the contractor knows what has to be done.
Posted: Fri Mar 20, 2009 2:43 pm
by Fly
great - thanks I will do that.
Posted: Fri Mar 20, 2009 7:05 pm
by seanandruby
... F****** our souls' it gets worse. surely there was a manhole cover there in the first place ???
Posted: Mon Mar 23, 2009 10:56 am
by Fly
Hi - Well the manhole cover was already there - What I meant was asthetically there should have been a nicer cover - for finishing.
Am I being picky ? do let me know if I am. Sarcassam could go over my head.
Posted: Mon Mar 23, 2009 11:46 am
by Rich H
That would depend on what was agreed. If the existing manhole cover was adequate (i.e. rated for vehicle loads) and at the right height and level the only reason to replace it would be aesthetic - your choice and cost, of course. We would always offer the option of a recess tray where the blocks can be cut into the lid and matched to the rest of the pattern - roughly £100 for the tray itself and labour to set it and do all the alignment and cuts.
Posted: Mon Mar 23, 2009 11:55 am
by Fly
great - thank you. Well as an update - I worked with the contractor over the weekend with a list of snags and he started working on them. So we are getting somewhere. I am now hoping that the surface does not dip in a couple of months!