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Posted: Tue Apr 03, 2012 6:18 pm
by rab1
Bodge your plumber has most likely crossed a pipe leading to that radiator hence the thumping noise. thermostatic valves should always go on the flow side not the return.
Posted: Tue Apr 03, 2012 7:10 pm
by digerjones
think when i fitted my thermostatic valves and rads, you could put said valve on any end, just alter the inside of valve. when all valves fitted they have to be ballanced.
Posted: Tue Apr 03, 2012 8:05 pm
by bodgeitandscarper
Noise is coming from rad.
Thanks for the replies.
Posted: Tue Apr 03, 2012 8:28 pm
by rimexboy
could it be air trapped in the radiator have you tried to bleed it ... is it warm at the top and the same at the bottom
Posted: Tue Apr 03, 2012 8:40 pm
by rab1
crossed pipework or valve on the wrong side.
Posted: Tue Apr 03, 2012 8:43 pm
by rab1
when you balance a heating system you start with all flow/return valves open and work from the last rad on the system closing the return valve as you go.
Posted: Thu May 03, 2012 4:06 pm
by bodgeitandscarper
Ok, over a month we've had countless leaks plumbers been back 4 times and everythings been ok since. Just looked in spare room puddle round pipe. How can I do this my self? do I have to empty radiator and put plumbers tape round? Leak
Im fed up with the numpty dont think I can ring him again!
Posted: Thu May 03, 2012 6:37 pm
by rab1
you dont want to use ptfe tape as over time it will leak on a threaded joint, use some boss white and hemp to seal the joint if its a thread thats leaking. if its an olive thats leaking you can wrap ptfe tape around it.
Posted: Thu May 03, 2012 6:41 pm
by Swansea Handyman
I'm not a plumber, but always use PTFE tape on all compression fittings - from the picture it's leaking via the thread - and I can't see any tape on the other fitting. Just tightening it up isn't really the solution.
Therefore has PTFE tape been used on any other fittings ?
I'm sure someone more qualified will be along in a bit....
Posted: Thu May 03, 2012 6:50 pm
by rab1
Sorry Bodge, never noticed the picture.
Close off each valve on the rad and open the air point, undoo the leaking joint and you will see a steel pipe with an olive (the sealing ring on compression fittings) on it coming from the valve going into the radiator. Wrap the olive in ptfe tape 5 times and the redo the joint but dont overtighten. (you`ll know when its tight enough)
Posted: Thu May 03, 2012 7:02 pm
by bodgeitandscarper
Thanks for that, I've emptied rad undone the nut but due it's design I can't pull it back enough to expose olive. I can wrap the tape tightly around nut and exposed bit of pipe then push what's wrapped around nut inside and tighten. Does that make sense ?
see pic nut is pushed back fully and cant expose olive you can just make it out.leak 2
Posted: Thu May 03, 2012 7:17 pm
by rab1
if you wrap the tape around the pipe section once slipped it will tighten around the olive.
Posted: Thu May 03, 2012 8:48 pm
by bodgeitandscarper
Many thanks, jobs a good un!
Posted: Sun May 06, 2012 2:28 pm
by rimexboy
im having a new boiler fitted this week as my other one thats only 8 years old is driven me mad with the amount of times its broken down, well over 20 times looking at the paperwork..
We currently have an ideal isar HE24, but will be switching it for a Vaillant ecoTEC pro 28 combi boiler.....
So its fingers and legs crossed here.
Posted: Sun May 06, 2012 3:58 pm
by lutonlagerlout
valiant are good boilers simon we use them a lot especially the ecotech
LLL