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Posted: Tue Jan 25, 2011 8:28 pm
by rimexboy
cheers guys for the help... good idea pablo.... it looks like im going to have to get on the garage roof then,,,,
Posted: Wed Jan 26, 2011 5:24 am
by henpecked
Part 'L' insulation regs required we covered the spots in the loft space with fireproof boxes. The heat from the spots can cause a suction effect from the bathroom if not covered.
Might be something on e-bay to suit, but we used fireproof plasterboard and chimney glue to make ours up.
Posted: Wed Jan 26, 2011 5:27 pm
by rimexboy
henpecked wrote:Part 'L' insulation regs required we covered the spots in the loft space with fireproof boxes. The heat from the spots can cause a suction effect from the bathroom if not covered.
Might be something on e-bay to suit, but we used fireproof plasterboard and chimney glue to make ours up.
ah thats the pink stuff i have some left over from my sitting room... thanks for that
Posted: Wed Jan 26, 2011 7:14 pm
by lutonlagerlout
the downlighters should come with those cowls?
LLL
Posted: Sun Jan 30, 2011 9:28 pm
by rimexboy
lutonlagerlout wrote:the downlighters should come with those cowls?
LLL
sorry for the snail pace reply... yes they do...
also cleaned all the loft out and hoovered it all up only 3 runs to the tip in the trailer 6 by 4 feet....
while its all out ive just rewired all the upstairs lights...
thanks guys simon
Posted: Sun Jan 30, 2011 9:38 pm
by rab1
does it smell better yet? (I mean the loft) 
Posted: Sun Jan 30, 2011 9:49 pm
by rimexboy
rab1 wrote:does it smell better yet? (I mean the loft)
yes thanks rab... its cleared it all very quick but i have to say its a lot milder than what it has been so fingers crossed ...
Posted: Sat Feb 12, 2011 10:42 pm
by DNgroundworks
Hi all,
right i have a problem in my loft conversion, i built it around 5 years ago to building regs. 40mm kingspan in roof with tri iso 9 silver blanket insulation stuff cross batened etc and 300mm fibre glass in the floor space.
The problem being is in the winter the room itself is terribly damp ive had to bin clothes due to mould lol. and its freezing when the rest of the house is warm, so cold it is somtimes colder in the loft which is my bedroom than it is outside, checked with thermometer! and in summer it is stifling!
there is a water tank in the cupboard and i have a double glazed window with vents, roof is fine, the house has no central heating just a very large wood burner which warms the whole house and the house is cavity filled with like a cotton wool like substance, no damp any where else in the house. oh the house is 1950 brick built 100mm cavity with rough casting render on outside.
Now i think it is condensation, water condensing on the gloss paint on the (what i call cold spots) where the ceiling meets the gable IYKWIM, as its the highest point in the house the heat rises etc.
Also the problem increased 10 fold when i put in the wood burner as before we had an open fire which realy pulled air through the house so maybe its a lack of air flow?
Any one any ideas? As this is also my office and my paper work and books etc are going knackerd!!
so how can i stop the mould the cold and the volcano heat in the summer?
Posted: Sun Feb 13, 2011 12:28 am
by rab1
cross flow of air, if you can fit an extractor fan and allow the air to move. i`m half pissed but heating/ventilation is my game.
damp etc is usually caused by lack of air flow plus your problem with heat in the summer means that there isn't any flow of air, fit a small fan and open the rooms door to avoid negative pressure (vacuum)
Posted: Sun Feb 13, 2011 9:14 am
by GB_Groundworks
Getting more and more of a problem with the obsession with hemetically sealed houses, air leakage tests on new houses etc my old 1900 terrace got solid 9 inch Walls but vents in every room and I always have 1 window open slighty even in winter. Fresh moving air is the best thing.
Posted: Sun Feb 13, 2011 9:36 am
by lutonlagerlout
^^
also dan that " tri iso 9 silver blanket insulation" has been outlawed now down here
we have to have 100 mm celotex/kingspan between the rafter with 25mm airspace to the underside of the felt
(so if you have 4 by 2 rafters as a lot of old house do you have to upgrade them to 5 or 6 by 2)
then cross battened with 50 by 50 and a further 40mm of celotex installed
before 12.5mm fireline plasterboard
as you have stated heat rises, but your loft should have a firedoor with a perco closer or have you taken that off?
also if you have a velux window ,they can be left on a vent setting
in my house the loft conversion was built with the house in 1922 and there is a fireplace in the loft,I dont use it but the wind through it is strong enough to blow books (ok glossy mags :;):) off my bedside table
but not 1 iota of damp
having said that it is hot in the summer (big electric fan) and cold in the winter
good luck
LLL 
Posted: Sun Feb 13, 2011 9:49 am
by GB_Groundworks
glossy mags like earthmovers and the brickie weekly lol
box of kleenex next to them hehe
Posted: Sun Feb 13, 2011 3:51 pm
by DNgroundworks
no the fire door is still on but no velux just a big fire escape window in the gable. right so if i core through the gable in a not so conspicuous place and put in a vent this will solve it?
Posted: Sun Feb 13, 2011 3:58 pm
by rab1
yes providing air can get under/around the door when closed.
Posted: Sun Feb 13, 2011 4:10 pm
by DNgroundworks
right i get it, leave door open and install vent, ill let you know how i get on. cheers