House made of shite!
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I would think that's got metal bars running through it, also you will have the weight of the first floor above then the walls and the roof structure on that.
It's a job that should have planning permission on but I've done a similar thing when I noticed an old rsj already fitted was to small and failing,
Just done it myself but was informed to get permission
It's a job that should have planning permission on but I've done a similar thing when I noticed an old rsj already fitted was to small and failing,
Just done it myself but was informed to get permission
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It would need building regs not planning permission
But as its a like for like switch out you might get away with it,
It should be one lintel with 100mm barring on each end, Steels will be easier as you got the other lintel coming in so unless you lift one up you are going to need to join them. Which can't be done easily with concrete lintels
It's something a good diyer could do but needs doing correctly
But as its a like for like switch out you might get away with it,
It should be one lintel with 100mm barring on each end, Steels will be easier as you got the other lintel coming in so unless you lift one up you are going to need to join them. Which can't be done easily with concrete lintels
It's something a good diyer could do but needs doing correctly
Giles
Groundworks and Equestrian specialists, prestige new builds and sports pitches. High Peak, Cheshire, South Yorkshire area.
http://www.gbgroundworks.com
Groundworks and Equestrian specialists, prestige new builds and sports pitches. High Peak, Cheshire, South Yorkshire area.
http://www.gbgroundworks.com
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building surveyor had a look and recommended replacing brick, which I have done and I also installed Helifix around cracks, so job done.
I now wanted the kitchen to be plastered and looked on tinternet and apparently for a kitchen, browning and skimmed is the best method.
Plasterer came today and started but said it would be better plasterboarded, so after a chat I went with it! He has just gone and Ive had a look around and found:
Around plugs and sockets there doesnt seem to be much board adhesive! Surely around a socket they should be fully supported?
There doesnt seem to be many blobs per full board, 9 to be exact. Is this ok?
Am I just worrying over nothing!
I now wanted the kitchen to be plastered and looked on tinternet and apparently for a kitchen, browning and skimmed is the best method.
Plasterer came today and started but said it would be better plasterboarded, so after a chat I went with it! He has just gone and Ive had a look around and found:
Around plugs and sockets there doesnt seem to be much board adhesive! Surely around a socket they should be fully supported?
There doesnt seem to be many blobs per full board, 9 to be exact. Is this ok?
Am I just worrying over nothing!
Maintenance Man
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bodge why oh why have you gone for drylining?
everyone knows its shite
its used purely for speed
hardwall and multifinish is the best job,or sand and cement
on all council work we have to use sand/cement and multifinish,why do you think they specify that?
9 dots on a board sounds about right ,on site the edges of the boards have to have a full bond of adhesive right round them
cheers
LLL
everyone knows its shite
its used purely for speed
hardwall and multifinish is the best job,or sand and cement
on all council work we have to use sand/cement and multifinish,why do you think they specify that?
9 dots on a board sounds about right ,on site the edges of the boards have to have a full bond of adhesive right round them
cheers
LLL
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this is someone's home Rab
drylining on site is often done on steel studs and to a very high spec
in the kitchen i am working on right now we have gutted it and will be using foil back plasterboard on the ceilings and hardwall/multi on the walls
he still has to get over the bow with the drylining
its up to you bodge but i can tell you that drylining it the price should be at least 40 % cheaper
far less work and material
LLL
drylining on site is often done on steel studs and to a very high spec
in the kitchen i am working on right now we have gutted it and will be using foil back plasterboard on the ceilings and hardwall/multi on the walls
he still has to get over the bow with the drylining
its up to you bodge but i can tell you that drylining it the price should be at least 40 % cheaper
far less work and material
LLL
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He's finished and lesson learned. He did a good job plastering but I'm unsure of plasterboards. I don't seem to be able to understand why people don't just do the best job to start with ( belt & braces approach ). If my wife had given the go ahead for an extension someone else could of had the headache of finding decent trades. As you can tell my wife is the BOSS!
Maintenance Man