I dug down between 4" to 6" and then created a slightly deeper trench for my soldier course. These will be cemented so that the top of these blocks is level with that of the lawn (ignore how crooked they look in the picture below).
I'll be ordering a ton of sharp sand today and wanted to know without a vibrating plate what is the best method of laying down the sharp sand and compacting it? The top of the blocks will lie level with the top of the soldier course when completed (hopefully!)
Also, is it necessary to fill the area with sharp sand first before compacting?
They are trying to say you are not doing it correct have you had a look on the block paving page on the main site??
I'm just like you a DIYer but I would say you need to go deeper use MOT TYPE 1 then compact then sand to lay the blocks on then compact them with sand between the joints...
But as a DIYer I would be asking if block paving is any good next to a pool... Sand washing out of joints and so on....
I know it's not correct but I've got no time to do a correct job due to a party in a couple of weeks and can only work on it during the weekend. If I had the time I'd be laying MOT 1, etc. but for time and budget reasons have to stick to sand then blocks. If it can last two seasons then I'll be happy. I'll then remove the blocks and do it properly.
I'm also a diyer and I understand where you are coming from but you've come to the wrong site to ask these sort of questions.
The site is called Paving Expert and the regulars on here are professionals who only do things the proper way and have a reputation to keep which may be damaged if they give out shoddy advice.
If I were you I'd do it the best you can for now, have the party, enjoy the summer and redo it properly when it fails but have more time.
if you are going to make a bollix of it daz you may as well knock up dry lean mix 5:1 grit sand : cement screed it off and lay your blocks on that
do the edging courses first with concrete ,let that go off for 24 hours then screed and lay
only screed as much as you can lay in the time frame
a proper bodge but thats what you are after :;):
LLL
you don't need a vibrating plate just lay it down rough and walk it in with your feet, screed it off rough and lay the pavers any cuts you can make with a hammer and bolster then mix cement and water to make a slurry to fill in the joints don't bother to clean off any surplus as it won't matter its only temporary
job done - next
PS..... don't bother posting photos of the finished paving as no one is interested
note to self
why bother giving professional advice when people don't listen
???
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mickg wrote:you don't need a vibrating plate just lay it down rough and walk it in with your feet, screed it off rough and lay the pavers any cuts you can make with a hammer and bolster then mix cement and water to make a slurry to fill in the joints don't bother to clean off any surplus as it won't matter its only temporary
job done - next
PS..... don't bother posting photos of the finished paving as no one is interested
note to self
why bother giving professional advice when people don't listen
???
come on mick, that's not fair. We will all be interested to see what a feck up he's made, then can transfer it to the craic and o c d thread :;): :laugh:
Cmon guys give Dazza a break. Were supposed to be educating people about the right way to do things and even if Dazza is ignoring the correct advice lets at least keep it professional.
Dazza, it will take you no time at all to dig out some soil and put an MOT down. It does not go dark till 10pm, you could do it over 2 evenings after work.
Think how annoying it will be when it all sinks and you have to take all the blocks up and the sand up and then do it properly. A bit more effort now (the cost of a bit of MOT) and you can get it done right first time
