Sub base - Block paving substrate
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- Posts: 2
- Joined: Sat Sep 15, 2012 10:50 pm
- Location: Lymm
Hello,
i am wanting to widen my existing block paving drive and have an area to do which is 20 feet by 6 feet which i reckon is about 16m2
Can someone give me an idea how much hardcore or crusher run i need, how much sand for under the block paving, also what height does the blockpaving sit above the existing drive before wackering it down.
Hope i make sense i am new to this, thanks.
i am wanting to widen my existing block paving drive and have an area to do which is 20 feet by 6 feet which i reckon is about 16m2
Can someone give me an idea how much hardcore or crusher run i need, how much sand for under the block paving, also what height does the blockpaving sit above the existing drive before wackering it down.
Hope i make sense i am new to this, thanks.
Paul Price
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- Posts: 1
- Joined: Mon Feb 04, 2013 10:12 am
- Location: Cape Town
Hi. I have question that I hope someone on this forum can answer. Currently have an area that is covered with concrete slabs 450mmx450mmx50mm. Has vehicle traffic daily. Want to introduce block paving. Is it a good idea to use the concrete slabs as the sub-base. Budget issues. Have used it for years with very little sagging. There does not appear to be a sub-base (coarse material) beneath the slabs. Just compacted sand. Any advice would be most appreciated.
Regard
JD
JD
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- Posts: 1366
- Joined: Fri Apr 15, 2011 9:05 pm
- Location: Edinburgh
JimmyD wrote:Hi. I have question that I hope someone on this forum can answer. Currently have an area that is covered with concrete slabs 450mmx450mmx50mm. Has vehicle traffic daily. Want to introduce block paving. Is it a good idea to use the concrete slabs as the sub-base. Budget issues. Have used it for years with very little sagging. There does not appear to be a sub-base (coarse material) beneath the slabs. Just compacted sand. Any advice would be most appreciated.
Bad idea. If you decided to use those slabs as a sub base you would need to lift them, dig down, level the ground, lay them so there are no voids underneath then sand on top of the slabs then lay the block paving. It is much more effort doing that than doing the job correctly and your driveway will fail.
Take slabs up, dig down an extra 175-190mm, (150mm for sub base, 25-40mm for laying course). Minimum you need is 100mm sub base but recommend 150, it isn't that much more expensive.
Read this page and related pages for more information:
http://www.pavingexpert.com/blocks2.htm
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- Joined: Thu Apr 25, 2013 2:15 pm
- Location: Oxford
Hi all, I have been watching this great site for a while now, not registering as all was going well with my block paved drive - apart from the weather - until now.
I dug out the 5m x 7m front garden (AKA drive to be), which was part concrete with 1" of poorly laid tarmac - but mostly garden, with a mini digger. Due to the shallow gas, electric and clay rain water drains, which were just at 250cm deep from the existing surface level, I couldn't slope it slightly more towards the neighbours garden on the left, bringing it in line with their concrete slab drive. Consequently this leaves my surface level flush with the top of my neighbours slab at the front of the garden, but 150cm higher at the house end. I now have a problem.... I have concreted in Acodrain along the front of the garden, which is level with the public footpath and the neighbours slab, but need to contain the MOT1 and sand etc where it is proud of the neighbours slab. I am using geo textile, 150mm MOT1, 100mm of sharp sand then 50mm Marley blocks. I am hoping to not to have to rip up my new fence and build a wall, but to have some kind of concrete foundation with the blocks on top or a dwarf wall 1 brick above block level, butting up to the fence. I am a good heating engineer, but not a professional paver (Obvious I know, but trying not to profess knowledge that I do not have. I laid my last drive, which was about the same size, but on a modern house with properly laid, non-1930s drains etc. This was very sucsessful, but the all of the edges were the same level as everything else important. I am very willing to take any advice offered, as not sure of the best direction or if I have the skills or logic required to invent my own solution - although I may yet have to.
Thank you in anticipation.
Regards,
Steve.
I dug out the 5m x 7m front garden (AKA drive to be), which was part concrete with 1" of poorly laid tarmac - but mostly garden, with a mini digger. Due to the shallow gas, electric and clay rain water drains, which were just at 250cm deep from the existing surface level, I couldn't slope it slightly more towards the neighbours garden on the left, bringing it in line with their concrete slab drive. Consequently this leaves my surface level flush with the top of my neighbours slab at the front of the garden, but 150cm higher at the house end. I now have a problem.... I have concreted in Acodrain along the front of the garden, which is level with the public footpath and the neighbours slab, but need to contain the MOT1 and sand etc where it is proud of the neighbours slab. I am using geo textile, 150mm MOT1, 100mm of sharp sand then 50mm Marley blocks. I am hoping to not to have to rip up my new fence and build a wall, but to have some kind of concrete foundation with the blocks on top or a dwarf wall 1 brick above block level, butting up to the fence. I am a good heating engineer, but not a professional paver (Obvious I know, but trying not to profess knowledge that I do not have. I laid my last drive, which was about the same size, but on a modern house with properly laid, non-1930s drains etc. This was very sucsessful, but the all of the edges were the same level as everything else important. I am very willing to take any advice offered, as not sure of the best direction or if I have the skills or logic required to invent my own solution - although I may yet have to.
Thank you in anticipation.
Regards,
Steve.
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- Site Admin
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- Joined: Fri Aug 04, 2006 12:20 am
- Location: bedfordshire
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- Site Admin
- Posts: 15184
- Joined: Fri Aug 04, 2006 12:20 am
- Location: bedfordshire
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- Posts: 10
- Joined: Thu Apr 25, 2013 2:15 pm
- Location: Oxford
I can't find the settings, but this should work until I do. Note that the Acodrain is already in along with a heavy lump of concrete and an edging row of blocks. I intended to put another row of blocks on a bet of concrete after the type 1 was in and then haunch it. Regards, Steve.
1 Edge to be raised. String will be the finished surface.
http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums....39b.jpg
2 Next to dark brown fence is the highest point at 150cm above the neighbours concrete slab.
http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums....ad6.jpg
Left of fence is level with the neighbours concrete slab and the public footpath.
http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums....6ca.jpg
As no 1
http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums....6af.jpg
1 Edge to be raised. String will be the finished surface.
http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums....39b.jpg
2 Next to dark brown fence is the highest point at 150cm above the neighbours concrete slab.
http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums....ad6.jpg
Left of fence is level with the neighbours concrete slab and the public footpath.
http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums....6ca.jpg
As no 1
http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums....6af.jpg
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- Site Admin
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- Joined: Fri Aug 04, 2006 12:20 am
- Location: bedfordshire
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- Joined: Wed Apr 08, 2009 8:01 am
- Location: Peoples Republic of Westhoughton
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continue with the fence up to next doors house and bed a large key kerb along the line of the fence which will give you additional height you require, it will show a taper along the fence line from the house towards the aco drain at the pavement but be parallel with the new driveway
another way is to finish the fence and then fix a 7 x 2 treated timber to the finished height that the driveway will be and bed the edge detail of the driveway on a concrete bed
ie the height of your string line as shown on the photo
both of these will give lateral restraint for the block paving but bare in mind its timber and will rot over time, in the north west we normally use concrete posts and base panels with a timber infill but it seems the way fencing is erected in the south is the use of timber for all the fence even the posts a gravel boards
added
or as Luton says which is a cheaper option to use a concrete edging bedded and haunched in place with concrete
another way is to finish the fence and then fix a 7 x 2 treated timber to the finished height that the driveway will be and bed the edge detail of the driveway on a concrete bed
ie the height of your string line as shown on the photo
both of these will give lateral restraint for the block paving but bare in mind its timber and will rot over time, in the north west we normally use concrete posts and base panels with a timber infill but it seems the way fencing is erected in the south is the use of timber for all the fence even the posts a gravel boards
added
or as Luton says which is a cheaper option to use a concrete edging bedded and haunched in place with concrete
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