Slate driveway
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First post on here so hello everyone.
I've been asked to quote to install a slate driveway using these paving slabs:
http://www.londonstone.com/Exterio....-Paving
We don't normally do driveways so I'm just after a bit of advise on the spec/ suitability of the stone. I know the general consensus is that slabs aren't the best choice for driveways. Block paving or similar being better. Also on here recommending a thickness of 60mm and up (I think?). Is this slate at 25mm too thin for a domestic drive? Even laid on a full mortar/concrete bed.
The spec I would go for:
150mm type 1
Laid on a full 100mm concrete bed
What do you reckon? Any advice appreciated.
Cheers
John
I've been asked to quote to install a slate driveway using these paving slabs:
http://www.londonstone.com/Exterio....-Paving
We don't normally do driveways so I'm just after a bit of advise on the spec/ suitability of the stone. I know the general consensus is that slabs aren't the best choice for driveways. Block paving or similar being better. Also on here recommending a thickness of 60mm and up (I think?). Is this slate at 25mm too thin for a domestic drive? Even laid on a full mortar/concrete bed.
The spec I would go for:
150mm type 1
Laid on a full 100mm concrete bed
What do you reckon? Any advice appreciated.
Cheers
John
jmclandscapes.com
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75mm is okay and the slurrey is top tip clean of slabs as you go with sponge and clean water resin point if you have the budget as Lll says wet mix for slate is tops and sbr takes a little longer but when done right its bullet proof
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Thanks for the replies everyone.
Steve, I didn't mean to throw your stone into question. I just needed a bit of reassurance on it which I have now got so thanks.
I'll go for SBR with a wet mix as I normally lay on a wet(ish) mix. Will also put the resin pointing to the client. I haven't used this before but it looks quick, a good finish but obviously expensive.
On another point- an architect involved has specified slot drains. Again I haven't installed these before as I normally use standard channels. I'm a bit concerned that they may block. Has anyone had any issues with this?
Is it just a case of blasting out with a pressure washer?
Cheers,
John
Steve, I didn't mean to throw your stone into question. I just needed a bit of reassurance on it which I have now got so thanks.
I'll go for SBR with a wet mix as I normally lay on a wet(ish) mix. Will also put the resin pointing to the client. I haven't used this before but it looks quick, a good finish but obviously expensive.
On another point- an architect involved has specified slot drains. Again I haven't installed these before as I normally use standard channels. I'm a bit concerned that they may block. Has anyone had any issues with this?
Is it just a case of blasting out with a pressure washer?
Cheers,
John
jmclandscapes.com
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Yes, pretty much so. Depends on the length - there would be access chambers/silt boxes.
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Slot drains are neat and tidy, but they *always* block unless maintained regularly, espcially in autumn.
I created a whole new webpage about using flagstones on driveways but it's not 'official' yet because the potential page sponsor hasn't committed. They wanted 'first refusal' to sponsor the page so they can stuff it full of pretty piccies of the products, but they don't seem to be in any rush to say aye or nay. If they choose not to sponsor it, then I'll offer it to another company...but, in the meantime, if you wanted to proof-read it for me, just to make sure there are no typos or grammatical errors, then....
http://www.pavingexpert.com/flags_driveways01.htm
...but it's for proof-reading only. Don't you dare learn anything from it! :;):
Edited By Tony McC on 1360412842
I created a whole new webpage about using flagstones on driveways but it's not 'official' yet because the potential page sponsor hasn't committed. They wanted 'first refusal' to sponsor the page so they can stuff it full of pretty piccies of the products, but they don't seem to be in any rush to say aye or nay. If they choose not to sponsor it, then I'll offer it to another company...but, in the meantime, if you wanted to proof-read it for me, just to make sure there are no typos or grammatical errors, then....
http://www.pavingexpert.com/flags_driveways01.htm
...but it's for proof-reading only. Don't you dare learn anything from it! :;):
Edited By Tony McC on 1360412842
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Hi John
I know you weren't calling stone into question and I hope my response did not sound arsey, it was not intended if it did.
It's a tricky post for me to reply too, because credibility is very important to me. So tried to make the answer impartial, even though if truth be told we've sold loads of slate, sandstone, limestone for driveways and never had a single call back
Steve
I know you weren't calling stone into question and I hope my response did not sound arsey, it was not intended if it did.
It's a tricky post for me to reply too, because credibility is very important to me. So tried to make the answer impartial, even though if truth be told we've sold loads of slate, sandstone, limestone for driveways and never had a single call back
Steve
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Belt and braces, more than anything.local patios and driveways wrote:why the need for a DPM between sub base and concrete and i assume also a sharp sand screed would be needed in that case?
Although I'm a firm advocate of a DPM beneath any concrete slab, it's harder to justify its inclusion when the concrete is a stiffish mix or even semi-dry, as is often the case with this sort of installation.
Conversely, I'm rarely convinced that a sand blinding is necessary beneath a DPM, unless it is a super-critical installation where any pin-prick breach of the DPM could be disastrous. Generally speaking, if the sub-base is properly prepared using suitable materials, the finish is (or should be) smooth enough to negate the need for a sand blinding.
Obviously, if a coarse or open-textured sub-base has been used, then a sand-blinding could be justified, but that would be the exception rather than the rule.
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