Sealing large gaps around block paving
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Folks... thanks for all your comments here! I’m really glad I asked the question as I would have been blindly buying GeoFix had I not sought some advice first!!
I’m not a paving expert by any stretch, and previous attempts at mixing sand and cement have never really ended up with successful results for me (and that’s just lack of experience and knowledge), hence my reluctance. However we are only talking about a few isolated places so first of all, how big a gap is acceptable for just brushing in kiln dried sand?
Then....
If I go for a manual mix, what proportions should I am for (or should I just use a ready mix bag from a DIY shop?)
How do I ensure the mix is getting right down into the joint... carful application with a pointed trowel?
Is there a risk of staining around the joints, is it just a case of being careful?
I appreciate you taking the time to reply ..... thanks!
I’m not a paving expert by any stretch, and previous attempts at mixing sand and cement have never really ended up with successful results for me (and that’s just lack of experience and knowledge), hence my reluctance. However we are only talking about a few isolated places so first of all, how big a gap is acceptable for just brushing in kiln dried sand?
Then....
If I go for a manual mix, what proportions should I am for (or should I just use a ready mix bag from a DIY shop?)
How do I ensure the mix is getting right down into the joint... carful application with a pointed trowel?
Is there a risk of staining around the joints, is it just a case of being careful?
I appreciate you taking the time to reply ..... thanks!
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Marshalls Weatherpoint 365 does exactly what it says on the tub without any issues nearly 4 years down the line with vigorous testing
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I have heard of problems to tony but in most cases it was due to not enough water being sprayed on the paving in the first place with a hose pipe or like the issue I was told about last week were a contractor was saying it's failed due to nothing he had done wrong when in fact he had filled most of the joint with kiln dried sand and brushed weatherpoint on top
There is no doubt that vdw 850 is a good product but so is Marshalls weatherpoint when used the correct way and to date I have had no problems using it on Marshalls fairstone products and other natural stone products too
There is no doubt that vdw 850 is a good product but so is Marshalls weatherpoint when used the correct way and to date I have had no problems using it on Marshalls fairstone products and other natural stone products too
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Tony McC wrote:Mick, you should get Chris Harrop to put you on a retainer: you're doing his job for him!!
paving, mini-crusher, mini-digger hire and groundwork
http://mshpaving.co.uk
http://mshpaving.co.uk
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Tony jump on that mean machine and take a trip down to Wilmslow on Friday as we are pointing a 40m2 fairstone driveway and I will show you how good it is, it will not matter if its raining or dry we will still be able to complete the work
(PS don't forget your drip tray)
(PS don't forget your drip tray)
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Thanks Folks
I spoke to Marshalls and they were very non committal as they had never done any testing on block paving. They were concerned that with block paving there might be movement as the blocks are set on sand not a full bed of mortar. They wouldn’t commit to min/ max joint depth or width.
In my case any use of the product is unlikely to be load bearing (it’s cutting in around edges up to walls and drain pipes). I can scrape out existing sand where I can, but probably can’t guarantee much more than 25mm, and gaps vary from 3mm to 10mm
What do you reckon from experience
I spoke to Marshalls and they were very non committal as they had never done any testing on block paving. They were concerned that with block paving there might be movement as the blocks are set on sand not a full bed of mortar. They wouldn’t commit to min/ max joint depth or width.
In my case any use of the product is unlikely to be load bearing (it’s cutting in around edges up to walls and drain pipes). I can scrape out existing sand where I can, but probably can’t guarantee much more than 25mm, and gaps vary from 3mm to 10mm
What do you reckon from experience
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I do apologise 233sqn marshalls weatherpoint 365 is for pointing between products laid on a rigid bed and like the technical guys advised you at Marshalls its not for between the joints of block paving as they are laid on a flexible bed plus they recommend the joint is not less than 6mm
the best product to use in your situation is sand and cement
the best product to use in your situation is sand and cement
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I am NOT speaking on behalf of GftK nor NCC, the UK distributor, but I did use their 840+ mortar to fill gaps in my own block paving last summer as part of the refurbishment project, and it's performed wonderfully well.
Maybe Gftk and/or NCC wouldn't recommend such usage, for the reasons MickG outlines above, but it did work for me. Weatherpoint might have worked just as well, but I didn't have any at the time, so I used what I could blag for nowt!
Maybe Gftk and/or NCC wouldn't recommend such usage, for the reasons MickG outlines above, but it did work for me. Weatherpoint might have worked just as well, but I didn't have any at the time, so I used what I could blag for nowt!
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