Using a gravel stabiliser on concrete - Using a gravel stabiliser on concrete
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I am thinking about installing a Core Gravel or Nidagravel stabilising system (strong plastic sheets of made of hexagons which hold the gravel in place) on top of my existing concrete driveway. I would need to repair the cracks and pot holes in the current driveway with fresh concrete first.
I could then then lay a bed of sharp sand (or similar, i'm open to suggestions please) over the existing concrete base and then thought I could lay the gravel stabilising system on top of the sand which would stop all the gravel rolling about.
It sounds like it should work, but does anyone have any experience with these systems or know of any problems I would encounter?
I don't really want to have to dig up all the concrete if I can help it, so thought this might be a good way around it.
Thanks
I could then then lay a bed of sharp sand (or similar, i'm open to suggestions please) over the existing concrete base and then thought I could lay the gravel stabilising system on top of the sand which would stop all the gravel rolling about.
It sounds like it should work, but does anyone have any experience with these systems or know of any problems I would encounter?
I don't really want to have to dig up all the concrete if I can help it, so thought this might be a good way around it.
Thanks
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How smooth is the concrete could the grids be laid straight onto it or is it quite uneven. My first problem with this plan is drainage if you don't have any then the water will just sit and stagnate in the gravel. You'll need to drill a dozen or so 20mm holes per m2 at least then fill them with fine grit a core drill might be better for this job. Before you go any further though you should do a few test holes and see how well the water gets away over the space of a few days. If the holes silt or block up then the whole thing will green. Also be sure to use a hard gravel not one that will break down easily under car tyres. If you have to lay the grids on a bed the best to use grit not sand so the rainwater can pass through it and get away quicker. If the budget allows I personally would pull the concrete out.
Edited By Pablo on 1337721094
Edited By Pablo on 1337721094
Can't see it from my house
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from their webby mate
concrete is no good
"First the depth required for the nidagravel® sheets and the foundation layer should be excavated. The thickness of the foundation depends on the subgrade’s bearing capacity and the expected traffic (light- or medium-weight vehicle).
Granulates with a large grading will often be used in the case of subbases made from crushed stone. However, this subbase is not level enough to lay nidagravel® sheets immediately on top of it. It is therefore advisable to provide a levelling layer of fine gravel (e.g. crushed stone 1-3), compacted if necessary and then raked level. "
LLL
concrete is no good
"First the depth required for the nidagravel® sheets and the foundation layer should be excavated. The thickness of the foundation depends on the subgrade’s bearing capacity and the expected traffic (light- or medium-weight vehicle).
Granulates with a large grading will often be used in the case of subbases made from crushed stone. However, this subbase is not level enough to lay nidagravel® sheets immediately on top of it. It is therefore advisable to provide a levelling layer of fine gravel (e.g. crushed stone 1-3), compacted if necessary and then raked level. "
LLL
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Thanks for the replies, it hadn't really occurred to me that the water might stagnate and go green in the gravel, so thanks for pointing this out. I guess if I go down this route I will have to make sure that I drill enough drain holes and that these are working properly.
The concrete slabs are a bit uneven in places, so was hoping to even them out by using the fine grit you mention.
Apparently Core Gravel can be laid over concrete according to this email which I received this morning, but I guess they might just be wanting to sell their product without much thought about the water stagnating.....
Yes COREgravel can be laid over concrete we do recommend you lay down a blinding of sharp sand. For a domestic driveway we recommend either the 38-25HDR or the 38-25HD they are the same size panels however the 38-25HDR is black and recycled and the 38-25HD is white and not recycled.
The concrete slabs are a bit uneven in places, so was hoping to even them out by using the fine grit you mention.
Apparently Core Gravel can be laid over concrete according to this email which I received this morning, but I guess they might just be wanting to sell their product without much thought about the water stagnating.....
Yes COREgravel can be laid over concrete we do recommend you lay down a blinding of sharp sand. For a domestic driveway we recommend either the 38-25HDR or the 38-25HD they are the same size panels however the 38-25HDR is black and recycled and the 38-25HD is white and not recycled.
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Why not considerResin Bound Surfacing?
Laid onto your existing concrete - providing sound and stable - at 15mm thick, saves the cost of removing your concrete, and it's water porous. If you need to achieve falls to drain water this can be done with a thin bonded Ronafix screed.
Please contact us if we can help you progress this.
Laid onto your existing concrete - providing sound and stable - at 15mm thick, saves the cost of removing your concrete, and it's water porous. If you need to achieve falls to drain water this can be done with a thin bonded Ronafix screed.
Please contact us if we can help you progress this.
Simeon Osen
Ronacrete Ltd - http://www.ronacrete.co.uk
Tel: +44 (0) 1279 638 700
Follow us at http://www.twitter.com/Ronacrete
Ronacrete Ltd - http://www.ronacrete.co.uk
Tel: +44 (0) 1279 638 700
Follow us at http://www.twitter.com/Ronacrete
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Well there is the odd joke every now and then.
As a manufacturer I can recommend my products in confidence. Contractors and members of the public are looking for answers, which is what I give. Others have the opportunity to do the same. I'm not sure I'm doing anything wrong, and I know I've helped many find solutions to their problems and educated others along the way.
If that's wrong, I'm sure Tony will let me know.
And I typed all of that without mentioning a single product or inserting a hyperlink to our site. Impressed?
As a manufacturer I can recommend my products in confidence. Contractors and members of the public are looking for answers, which is what I give. Others have the opportunity to do the same. I'm not sure I'm doing anything wrong, and I know I've helped many find solutions to their problems and educated others along the way.
If that's wrong, I'm sure Tony will let me know.
And I typed all of that without mentioning a single product or inserting a hyperlink to our site. Impressed?
Simeon Osen
Ronacrete Ltd - http://www.ronacrete.co.uk
Tel: +44 (0) 1279 638 700
Follow us at http://www.twitter.com/Ronacrete
Ronacrete Ltd - http://www.ronacrete.co.uk
Tel: +44 (0) 1279 638 700
Follow us at http://www.twitter.com/Ronacrete
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Sadly my hair's too short to be let down. And I'm not a sales rep. More marketing support.
This site is amazing. So many newcomers, so many valid and valuable questions. Many contractors here have a huge wealth of knowledge and every day there's something new to be read and learnt.
I visit other forum sites - most business related - and this is by far the most educated - and most contributors use proper Queen's English rather than that awful text speak.
This site is amazing. So many newcomers, so many valid and valuable questions. Many contractors here have a huge wealth of knowledge and every day there's something new to be read and learnt.
I visit other forum sites - most business related - and this is by far the most educated - and most contributors use proper Queen's English rather than that awful text speak.
Simeon Osen
Ronacrete Ltd - http://www.ronacrete.co.uk
Tel: +44 (0) 1279 638 700
Follow us at http://www.twitter.com/Ronacrete
Ronacrete Ltd - http://www.ronacrete.co.uk
Tel: +44 (0) 1279 638 700
Follow us at http://www.twitter.com/Ronacrete
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