Paving gaps and other bedding layer

[jack101]

hi all, im looking at using brett aura paving blocks, these are slightly curved blocks so obviously the create their own gaps at certain points but what about the the rest of the joint? should the blocks be butted tight to each other and let the curved parts
form the jointing gaps or should i leave a 3mm gap and allow the curved area to form and even larger gap?

i read on this site that the blocks should be laid in a herringbone pattern, why is this? does it distributed load better? is it significantly better? i am going for a traditional cobbled look, is herringbone traditonal with cobbles or would it look better with a normal staggered bond?

is grit (fine whinstone) better than grit sand? the grit sand from our local quarry is not very gritty so i thought maybe i should use whinstone as that what some local guys use up here in west scotland. is whinstone more of a commercial grade choice, thats what i would prefer. the base undulates +/- 20mm so i thought whinstone would help sort that better than sand.

thanks very much for your advice

[Tony McC]

Aura should be laid 'hand tight', so no need to leave an exaggerated joint where blocks abut.

Pattern is up to you. Herringbone is preferred because there is full horizontal interlock in all directions, whereas a stretcher bond or broken bond has continuous straight joints in one direction, and is therefore more prone to creep.

Whinstone is fine as a bedding material (usually)

±20mm on the sub-base is too much. It needs to be better than that. It should be ±10mm at worst.

[jack101]

thanks for your reply, after taking a few more opinions i am also considering using gridforce type product possibly gf40 for the job, the will be a car park with quite frequent residential use. i spoke to the people at gridforce and they told me that a zoo car park has been done in this so it should cope with my use with ease as its only 12 cars. i would be using gravel.

does anyone have any views on this? i was going to use it in some places anyway but now im considering using it on the whole job some 600m2.

does the sub base still have to be +/-10mm or can it be +/- 20mm with this product, i would still be using whindust unless you say the sharp sand is better?

[seanandruby]

30ml course sand....spot on. why do you keep asking about 20ml when you have been quoted 10 at worst ???

[jack101]

30ml course sand....spot on. why do you keep asking about 20ml when you have been quoted 10 at worst ???

because im considering using a different product. if im using a different product it could be possible that there is more/less margin for error.
why dont you read the post carefully before making your reply?

[lutonlagerlout]

30ml course sand....spot on. why do you keep asking about 20ml when you have been quoted 10 at worst ???

because im considering using a different product. if im using a different product it could be possible that there is more/less margin for error.
why dont you read the post carefully before making your reply?

Jack if you come here looking for advice off blokes out there doing their bollocks every day, a little bit of humility goes a long way
no matter what you end up using the subbase is best if as close to flat as possible
+/-10mm
good luck
LLL

[seanandruby]

30ml course sand....spot on. why do you keep asking about 20ml when you have been quoted 10 at worst ???

because im considering using a different product. if im using a different product it could be possible that there is more/less margin for error.
why dont you read the post carefully before making your reply?

Q the theme tune from jaws Orwell springs to mind Jack, get back in room 101. Tell you what Jock put your sand as deep as you want, take no notice of the boss, he only spent 10 years, or more building up this site, just to attract Arseholes like you :p

[jack101]

f*ck off, you dumb pr!ck. why cant someone ask a question again when they are considering a different approach? you lot all high and mighty just because you have some knowledge, i too have some knowledge in other fields and happily give out advice without belittling the person asking the questions.

as i said earlier read the posts properly and understand whats being said before you reply, im using whindust, not sand!

[GB_Groundworks]

ladies ladies put those handbags away

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9pe0rNieL-Q

[Mikey_C]

i might be wrong but I think you might not get any more help what so ever on this forum, from anyone, ever, you certainly won't from me!

in the words of the dragons den i'm out!

best of luck with your drive/life!

[msh paving]

Any more abuse to the forum members who put allot off hours into this site for free, and the moderators again for free and tony who pays out off his own pocket for this site,I will delete this post,
We give help and advice to do things the correct way,no half measures, so please don't post "f*ck off, you dumb pr!ck." MSH

[jack101]

i didnt say anything about tony, his reply was sensible and helpful. is it ok for the guy to call me an arsehole? if you are a moderator then do your job!

if you look at all of my previous posts, ive always been grateful for the advice, i just dont take kindly to being called an arsehole.

[seanandruby]

:laugh: :p

[mickavalon]

The aggression was started by you Jack, Sean was just asking you a question, hence the question mark. I've never seen anyone on here be "high and mighty", or be as aggresive as your response, this isn't kiddies FB, and with your attitude you must be used to being called names.

[jack101]

fair enough if thats what you think but i dont think it was unreasonable to ask about the 10mm +/- when i stated it wasnt for block paving. someone else replied later on that it should be flat as possible regardless of which product, dont you think that would have been the best reply in the first place? rather than questioning why i was asking a simple question?