My new driveway - damaged blocks... - Blocks are damaged
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Thanks for the replies gents.
To 'Lutonlagerlout' - that's EXACTLY what I'm talking about! You make that sort of effort for your client and they'll be telling the world about you and your work. And I'm sure YOU feel good about yourself too, knowing you've done your utmost and it's appreciated. If I move and need a driveway done I'll be in touch!!
To 'Local Patios and Driveways' - yes I spent probably the last 18 months on and off looking at this website, reading as much as possible and trying to understand the whole process.
I really wanted to have a crack at it myself but decided it was wiser to get a professional to do it.
The quotes came in at between 4k and 6k. I paid nearly 5k for the job and for that I expected a near perfect result and good follow-up.
Last night I replaced the most damaged block - took a while and a little sweating over trying not to damage adjacent blocks, but got it done and happy now. Need to do the others at some point but they aren't so noticeable.
Just one other thing I've noticed about my drive - there are a couple of curves in the charcoal soldier course and instead of tapering they just cut 'slithers' in - better than huge joints but still not the right way (according to all advice on here anyway).
Anyway I'll shut up now!
To 'Lutonlagerlout' - that's EXACTLY what I'm talking about! You make that sort of effort for your client and they'll be telling the world about you and your work. And I'm sure YOU feel good about yourself too, knowing you've done your utmost and it's appreciated. If I move and need a driveway done I'll be in touch!!
To 'Local Patios and Driveways' - yes I spent probably the last 18 months on and off looking at this website, reading as much as possible and trying to understand the whole process.
I really wanted to have a crack at it myself but decided it was wiser to get a professional to do it.
The quotes came in at between 4k and 6k. I paid nearly 5k for the job and for that I expected a near perfect result and good follow-up.
Last night I replaced the most damaged block - took a while and a little sweating over trying not to damage adjacent blocks, but got it done and happy now. Need to do the others at some point but they aren't so noticeable.
Just one other thing I've noticed about my drive - there are a couple of curves in the charcoal soldier course and instead of tapering they just cut 'slithers' in - better than huge joints but still not the right way (according to all advice on here anyway).
Anyway I'll shut up now!
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I will try and take some pics tonight.
As I mentioned previously about his response to asking about coming back to check the joints, I don't think I could ask the contractor to rectify the curved edging as I'm convinced he'd say "they're OK, that's how we do them".
And where do you go from there without ending up in a confrontation?
As I mentioned previously about his response to asking about coming back to check the joints, I don't think I could ask the contractor to rectify the curved edging as I'm convinced he'd say "they're OK, that's how we do them".
And where do you go from there without ending up in a confrontation?
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i dont like cutting tapers,i think they look crap so i use mortar in those joints up to 15mm
wack then sand
tapers done well look the beesknees but no one wants to pay extra day work for them
IIRC the tapers round the columns at the reebok look fantastic,but probably took a couple of hours per column
Personally i would hate to thing someone was worried about calling me after ,so to alleviate this i try to explain everything in depth before we start
LLL
wack then sand
tapers done well look the beesknees but no one wants to pay extra day work for them
IIRC the tapers round the columns at the reebok look fantastic,but probably took a couple of hours per column
Personally i would hate to thing someone was worried about calling me after ,so to alleviate this i try to explain everything in depth before we start
LLL
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Good afternoon 'LLL'.
Ok, so maybe I've mistakenly thought tapering the curved edges was the standard procedure. I'm sure whatever way YOU do your curves they look better than what I've got.
I'd show you, but struggling to upload a picture into the post.
Clicking on 'image' asks for URL - do you have to have the pictures hosted elsewhere to allow access to them on here?
Hope that makes sense!
Ok, so maybe I've mistakenly thought tapering the curved edges was the standard procedure. I'm sure whatever way YOU do your curves they look better than what I've got.
I'd show you, but struggling to upload a picture into the post.
Clicking on 'image' asks for URL - do you have to have the pictures hosted elsewhere to allow access to them on here?
Hope that makes sense!
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Customer wasn't happy with haunching right up the side, didn't like the look of it and didn't like any of the usual suggestions for covering it. She asked if it was necessary, I said she could probably get away without it because the curve was so tight so I just stuck plenty of concrete below.lutonlagerlout wrote:where is the haunching carberry?
cuts look neat but the lack of haunch is made obvious by the migration of the KDS?
or am i looking at it wrong?
LLL