Cutting sandstone setts
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I may be just about to ask a REALLY stupid question, but here goes.....
I have a diamond blade wet tile cutter (from Wickes) which I've used for travertine etc inside the house, up to about 10mm thick.
As I'm trying to save a bit of cash, any opinions on whether this would work for 100mm by 100mm setts between 20mm and 40mm in thickness? Otherwise, what could I use?
Thanks in advance!
I have a diamond blade wet tile cutter (from Wickes) which I've used for travertine etc inside the house, up to about 10mm thick.
As I'm trying to save a bit of cash, any opinions on whether this would work for 100mm by 100mm setts between 20mm and 40mm in thickness? Otherwise, what could I use?
Thanks in advance!
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Is it this one?
http://www.wickes.co.uk/invt/186892
Says for cuts up to 28mm deep.
No guarantees but you could try replacing the blade with a 115mm diamond blade with a 22mm bore meant for an angle grinder.
You can buy a couple cheap from ebay. They won't be the best but might last long enough for a diy job.
http://www.wickes.co.uk/invt/186892
Says for cuts up to 28mm deep.
No guarantees but you could try replacing the blade with a 115mm diamond blade with a 22mm bore meant for an angle grinder.
You can buy a couple cheap from ebay. They won't be the best but might last long enough for a diy job.
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Hire a petrol 12" saw and use your Foot to hold the sett firmly(steel toe cap boots) in place while you run the saw across you mark then turn the water
Tap on the side of your saw that is connected to you saw via a garden hoselock to cut deeper through the sett or all the way through make sure you are cutting on a clean flat surface (ie) thick ply board or pallet.wear goggles,ear muffs and make sure its safe for others whilst cutting.
Health and safety lesson over back to dry cutting on a cliff edge tomorrow :laugh:
Tap on the side of your saw that is connected to you saw via a garden hoselock to cut deeper through the sett or all the way through make sure you are cutting on a clean flat surface (ie) thick ply board or pallet.wear goggles,ear muffs and make sure its safe for others whilst cutting.
Health and safety lesson over back to dry cutting on a cliff edge tomorrow :laugh:
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- Posts: 16
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The Stihl sounds like it would be a seriously dangerous piece of kit in my hands haggistini. I know I'd either be in A&E by evening or back in the hire shop trying to explain why it blew up.
Doesn't look like much to hire though so I'll think about the outlay. I'm still trying to get my head around paying for all the resin jointing mortar so maybe all of this in slow stages.
Doesn't look like much to hire though so I'll think about the outlay. I'm still trying to get my head around paying for all the resin jointing mortar so maybe all of this in slow stages.
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A tile cutter is for tiles a diamond blade is for stone! if you have a few practice runs and don't suffer from involuntary movements then you should be fine with how we do it in the trade and as for the cost it soon makes sense for the time you will save I don't know if I have missed your earlier posts on this project but you can reduce you cuts on setts by careful planning and a good chisel and hammer
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Just been looking on ebay.
These are very similar to the one I use in my small angle grinder.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm....3516196
I'm only a diyer so can't say how they compare to expensive blades because I haven't used any.
It's up to you but I'd buy 1 blade and see how you get on.
If it doesn't work then you've only wasted 2 quid and then you'll know whether to order a couple more blades or hire a Stihl.
These are very similar to the one I use in my small angle grinder.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm....3516196
I'm only a diyer so can't say how they compare to expensive blades because I haven't used any.
It's up to you but I'd buy 1 blade and see how you get on.
If it doesn't work then you've only wasted 2 quid and then you'll know whether to order a couple more blades or hire a Stihl.