Inserting a y into a drain run
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Hello all. I have enjoyed this site over the years and find many of the articles very helpful.
To my problem: A main line of 150 mm plastic foul drainage was built and a y junction should have been left out to receive an additional run.
The drain is now live and I have to connect this run. Any suggestions particularly on the practicalities of getting this Y junction in.
Regards
Tom
To my problem: A main line of 150 mm plastic foul drainage was built and a y junction should have been left out to receive an additional run.
The drain is now live and I have to connect this run. Any suggestions particularly on the practicalities of getting this Y junction in.
Regards
Tom
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Slip collars, accurate cutting, a quiet sewer run and work quickly!
RW Gale Ltd - Civils & Surfacing Contractors based in Somerset
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is it still exposed tom?
if so you can follow daves's advice
when using slip collars always best to have as much clear as possible to work better
best to do this kind of work early doors before your little friends start arriving
and make sure you have all the fittings before you start sawing
150 pipe is not stocked by the DIY sheds
cheers LLL
if so you can follow daves's advice
when using slip collars always best to have as much clear as possible to work better
best to do this kind of work early doors before your little friends start arriving
and make sure you have all the fittings before you start sawing
150 pipe is not stocked by the DIY sheds
cheers LLL
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bit of a homage of two jobs as i wasnt taking photos after we cut the 150 sewer at a busy nhs medical centre haha, accurate tight cutting clean pipe, pipe lube, surf form,
if you can further up the line insert a bung, then do
find your pipe
clean all rd it
cut the pipe for your Y clean it off with a cloth, taper your edges and lube your pipe up. slide your slip collar on all the way upto the last rubber, can go beyond but risk damaging the rubber and struggling like hell to get it back.
squeze your Y or T in and seat onto the run, then slide or tap your slip back collar down the line to seal it again.
tools etc old wood saws best for a straight cut
Edited By GB_Groundworks on 1303471483
if you can further up the line insert a bung, then do
find your pipe
clean all rd it
cut the pipe for your Y clean it off with a cloth, taper your edges and lube your pipe up. slide your slip collar on all the way upto the last rubber, can go beyond but risk damaging the rubber and struggling like hell to get it back.
squeze your Y or T in and seat onto the run, then slide or tap your slip back collar down the line to seal it again.
tools etc old wood saws best for a straight cut
Edited By GB_Groundworks on 1303471483
Giles
Groundworks and Equestrian specialists, prestige new builds and sports pitches. High Peak, Cheshire, South Yorkshire area.
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Groundworks and Equestrian specialists, prestige new builds and sports pitches. High Peak, Cheshire, South Yorkshire area.
http://www.gbgroundworks.com
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Giles
Surely there will be a gap somewhere if you cut a section of pipe out longer than the junction ?.
Its easier to insert 170mm section of pipe in the upstream collar on the junction so you have a spigot at both ends, then cut the pipe accurately and drop the junction in before sliding the couplings onto the spigots.
Surely there will be a gap somewhere if you cut a section of pipe out longer than the junction ?.
Its easier to insert 170mm section of pipe in the upstream collar on the junction so you have a spigot at both ends, then cut the pipe accurately and drop the junction in before sliding the couplings onto the spigots.
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Yeah true but it's almost impossible in a fixed line to get a mm fit, theres always going to be say 10mm in the collar without pipe but in plastic it's unlikely to block.
Maybe not impossible but impractical
Maybe not impossible but impractical
Giles
Groundworks and Equestrian specialists, prestige new builds and sports pitches. High Peak, Cheshire, South Yorkshire area.
http://www.gbgroundworks.com
Groundworks and Equestrian specialists, prestige new builds and sports pitches. High Peak, Cheshire, South Yorkshire area.
http://www.gbgroundworks.com
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Using just one sliding collar and forcing the y on could damage it and push the rubber out of the end. As flo' says it's always best to add a length and use two sliding collars. The gap will be minimal, the other way will be a damaged fitting, or and a wider gap. Also make sure you have plenty of space to make it easier for yourself.
sean
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......Sorry LLL but giles picture does'nt show how it is, there is only one slip collar. s c only cost pennies more than a normal collar, if anything at all. making a slip/sliding collar can damage and weaken the collar so always best to buy new. Hope giles you washed your boots and gloveless hands after that. I did sewer connection on an old hospital in Brighton years ago and was off work for 3 weeks after, thought i had weil's disease never did get to find out what it was i did'nt keep my appointments because working out of town :p
sean
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I cant see your point Sean,if the fittings are compatible why cant the Y just slide on to the pipe if its chamfered? and lubed up?
i would prefer to see more room but in the real world if the connection is made male to female and it is water tight whats not to like?
you dont force upvc drainage,you cut it to correct length ,chamfer it and lube it then slide it in
seen lads doing it without rasp and lube and thats where the rubber comes out
LLL
i would prefer to see more room but in the real world if the connection is made male to female and it is water tight whats not to like?
you dont force upvc drainage,you cut it to correct length ,chamfer it and lube it then slide it in
seen lads doing it without rasp and lube and thats where the rubber comes out
LLL
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The only way you will get the junction in using this method is by cutting out a section of pipe longer than the junction, probably in excess of 50mm, you will therefore have a gap in the pipe work of 50mm leaving a step or snag point, on a storm system it would probably not be an issue but on a foul system you could have problems.
On new build this would be a fail if the system was surveyed and there is more chance of the system failing a pressure test if rubber seals are disturbed during the installation.
It is standard practice to have enough new pipe work up and downstream of your junction to accommodate a sliding coupling or adaptor, particularly if the wall of the original pipe work is thicker than the material you are installing (plastic to vitrified clay for example)
As Sean says give your self plenty of room to work in (not always possible i know) chamfer all pipe work, use plenty of lube (Oh Matron !) and if you can use road pins or rebar to gently edge the sliders into place.
On new build this would be a fail if the system was surveyed and there is more chance of the system failing a pressure test if rubber seals are disturbed during the installation.
It is standard practice to have enough new pipe work up and downstream of your junction to accommodate a sliding coupling or adaptor, particularly if the wall of the original pipe work is thicker than the material you are installing (plastic to vitrified clay for example)
As Sean says give your self plenty of room to work in (not always possible i know) chamfer all pipe work, use plenty of lube (Oh Matron !) and if you can use road pins or rebar to gently edge the sliders into place.
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I've seen lads cut pipe and pull it to one side and force it on, that usually forces the rubber out. It is impossible to not leave a big gap doing it with one collar lll, that way you are using the collar as a conduit, rather than butting up causing future problems with back up. If the y branch was a double spigot there would'nt be any problems at all. As flo' i do these connections regular and it is the only way to get a perfect fit. It'll no doubt become apparent when you next do one :;):
sean
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upon further thought i see where you are coming from, however in the real world there isnt always room to open up say 1200mm,
as with most things there is the correct way and the practical way
is it just me or does anyone else feel that slip collars should be a bit longer than 120mm
when i do them it never seems a lot to hold the pipe IYKWIM
cheers LLL
as with most things there is the correct way and the practical way
is it just me or does anyone else feel that slip collars should be a bit longer than 120mm
when i do them it never seems a lot to hold the pipe IYKWIM
cheers LLL
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With drainage there is only one way.....the correct way, anything short of that spells disaster. It's like the bloke who pulled out the rubber seal to make it easier' with the immortal words .... "it's only storm water " :p Priceless !!! Collars are plenty big enough, they are the same as ordinary collars. If building one of your walls someone said "make perps' anything between 10 to 50 ml," you'd think they were nuts :;):
sean