Hello there-
Amazing site, I have to tell you, so thorough, so understandable! An absolute gem. You must publish a book. Garden Designers (many of whom go into it from a horticultural background) desperately need this kind of straightforward information.
I am designing a contemporary garden which has parallel bars(like stripes, 250mm wide) of darker paving running through planting beds and then flush with an Indian Sandstone terrace. Ideally, these bars are continuous -- it's part of the 'look' -- so any unit paving would not provide the same effect. The client cannot afford long, bespoke-cut granite slabs.
I am hoping to construct most of the bars from concrete, which would then be coloured dark. I am using the Roadforms suggested on this site. The hardcore, etc, for the sandstone will be then be placed around the cured 'bars'. Getting the falls right might be difficult, but not impossible, I hope.
However, three of these bars extend from the terrace over a sunken water feature. Since the water feature has it's own reinforced concrete shell, I was planning to support the bars, as they cross the pond, with concrete blocks (some of which are hollow to allow the water to pass from one section to another). Still with me?
SO...the question is: to make these three bars (max. length 2 metres), can I create my own bars, long and skinny as they are, using forms, then simply lift them and mortar them on top of the concrete block supports (as they cross the pond), and mortar them onto the hardcore (as they cross the terrace).
And how thick should they be? It is like I am creating my own concrete pavers, but a very unusual size (2000 x 250).
YOu may just tell me to go and simplify my design. The design looks simple, actually; elegant, I hope! it is the execution that is complicated.
I am open to your advice.
Thanks-- ladysmantle
Continuous concrete 'stripes' - Across patio then water feature
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Tony McC
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ladysmantle
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Excellent news -- about the book, I mean. You've got a buyer here for sure. I assume you will let us know on your website.
Yes, I suppose they ARE like concrete sleepers. The first type, embedded in soil and then the terrace, would need to either have a small foundation or be shaped like an inverted T, to prevent movement? The upper portion being 150 ht x 250 wide and the lower being 150 ht and 350 wide. (These dimensions are inspired by construction drawings of concrete kerbs, though without haunching.) Only the upper surface shows, although some of the sides will show in the planting bed, as the final elevation of mulch will be slightly lower than the terrace.
The 'sleepers' that extend from the terrace to cross the pond would be 250 w. by...I don't know, 100 ht? With a 10mm joint to mortar them to the concrete blocks? I can't make them too thick or they will be difficult to work with, but I can't make them too thin or they will be fragile. Or will they? What do you suggest?
Sorry this is so complicated, it is difficult to convey without drawings. Thank you for your time and willlingness to help.
--ladysmantle
Yes, I suppose they ARE like concrete sleepers. The first type, embedded in soil and then the terrace, would need to either have a small foundation or be shaped like an inverted T, to prevent movement? The upper portion being 150 ht x 250 wide and the lower being 150 ht and 350 wide. (These dimensions are inspired by construction drawings of concrete kerbs, though without haunching.) Only the upper surface shows, although some of the sides will show in the planting bed, as the final elevation of mulch will be slightly lower than the terrace.
The 'sleepers' that extend from the terrace to cross the pond would be 250 w. by...I don't know, 100 ht? With a 10mm joint to mortar them to the concrete blocks? I can't make them too thick or they will be difficult to work with, but I can't make them too thin or they will be fragile. Or will they? What do you suggest?
Sorry this is so complicated, it is difficult to convey without drawings. Thank you for your time and willlingness to help.
--ladysmantle
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Tony McC
- Site Admin
- Posts: 8346
- Joined: Mon Jul 05, 2004 7:27 pm
- Location: Warrington, People's Republic of South Lancashire
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I can't see why you would need a trapezoid or T-shape for the cast-in-situ sleepers. Wouldn't they be ok cast as simple rectangles?
The sleepers that are to cross the pond - will these be c-i-s or cast and then lifted into place? If you plan to cast them elsewhere and then crane them into position, I'd suggest you'd need rebar to give tensile strength. Using, say, 4 bars of T12 steel, you could form them as 250x150mm castings, up to around 3m in length.
They'd need to be properly vibrated and then allowed to cure for at least 7 days before attempting to crane them, and at 3m length, you'd have a total weight of around 270kg, so some care would be needed.
The sleepers that are to cross the pond - will these be c-i-s or cast and then lifted into place? If you plan to cast them elsewhere and then crane them into position, I'd suggest you'd need rebar to give tensile strength. Using, say, 4 bars of T12 steel, you could form them as 250x150mm castings, up to around 3m in length.
They'd need to be properly vibrated and then allowed to cure for at least 7 days before attempting to crane them, and at 3m length, you'd have a total weight of around 270kg, so some care would be needed.
Site Agent - Pavingexpert
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ladysmantle
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- Location: Hampshire