Lawn - The green green grass of home.
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obviously plants that prefer shade. I would take off the stone and mix some fertilizer in with the soil, get it ready to receive plants. You need to test soil to see if it's loamy, acidy etc: there are some good reference books on the market hag. i boight half a dozen at car boot sale and charity shops this w'kend ranging from ....lawns,shrubs, bedding plants etc: it is an whole new ball game and needs a lot of research. Read up m8 it is quite rewarding
sean
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thatD.G.Hessayon seems to be a right know all about garden stuff
LLL :;):
LLL :;):
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our turfing lads who bless them despite being inbred deliverance country bumkins make a great turf job and supply and lay for £2/m theyve done 3/4 acres lawns for us before. they always lay on soft sand level/screedd and use boards and planks to walk on and straighten and cut it with old steak knives etc.
water well first few weeks, no feed and weed stuff. one client thoughts they were helping feeding and weeding it and killed 300m+
i need to know more about this side of things
water well first few weeks, no feed and weed stuff. one client thoughts they were helping feeding and weeding it and killed 300m+
i need to know more about this side of things
Giles
Groundworks and Equestrian specialists, prestige new builds and sports pitches. High Peak, Cheshire, South Yorkshire area.
http://www.gbgroundworks.com
Groundworks and Equestrian specialists, prestige new builds and sports pitches. High Peak, Cheshire, South Yorkshire area.
http://www.gbgroundworks.com
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We use the end of old blunt jack saws, cut to length with a grinder, last ages and do the job well. tell the clients to keep off the lawn for 3 weeks, water well for the first 3 weeks, best in the evening as the sun doesn't evaporate it. If it's not watered well it'll shrink, leaving nasty gaps between rolls. After it's taken the first cut should be on longest setting and then take it down gradually, never set your blades to short and check for sharpness or you'll just rip not cut. No chemical treatments for at least 12 months after laying. If the soil your laying on is poor quality soil, even if it isn't, a bit of fertiliser works well to help establish roots. We always lay on a mix of Top sport top soil and grit sand for drainage.
The ground underneath turf shouldn't be to compacted either, loosen it with a fork or rotovator and firm with your heels, not a compactor like we've seen some "Landscapers" doing!!
The ground underneath turf shouldn't be to compacted either, loosen it with a fork or rotovator and firm with your heels, not a compactor like we've seen some "Landscapers" doing!!
Gi it sum ommer
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Keep it watered every 3-4 days for the first season and don't apply any feed. This is alleged to encourage the roots to search for essential minerals, and so they venture into the bedding, rather than just lurking around in the sod waiting for the next shower of fertiliser jollop.
Site Agent - Pavingexpert
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first 3 weeks it needs to be saturated daily or it'll shrink. Then as and when it's needed throughout the growing season. Don't cut it to short and don't let it grow to long. Never cut it by more than a third at a time. If it gets to long the shade kills the finer swards and if it's to short it promotes moss growth. Fertiliser should be applied to the soil to promote root growth and not to the turf. Give it an autumn feed only. I'd not have taken delivery of that turf it's very parched and patchy but it should come good eventually.
Edited By Pablo on 1304073598
Edited By Pablo on 1304073598
Can't see it from my house