Moving clay drain for toilet

Johno12345 · Post: # 60580Post **Johno12345** Sat Mar 12, 2011 3:59 pm

Hi,

I am replacing my toilet with a modern one, therefore, the existing clay socket inside is too far out from the wall.

i have excavated it outside back to the inspection chamber

Ideally, id like to remove all the clay to the halfpipe and use plastic. From the pictures, is this feasible?

Not sure how to do it yet, just throwing ideas around

Sat Mar 12, 2011 6:03 pm

You get an ad400 adapter from vitrous clay or ac4000 flexible adapter these are for 110mm adaption but be similar for bigger pipe cut the pipe use one of those and continue on in plastic

Post: # 60582Post **Dave_L** Sat Mar 12, 2011 6:22 pm

I'd be inclined to rip the clay out and do the whole run in plastic, form a "new" connection into the IC - it doesn't look too bad a job from here.

By the time you've cut the existing pipe cleanly etc etc.......

Johno12345 · Post: # 60583Post **Johno12345** Sat Mar 12, 2011 6:32 pm

i was planning to use an adapter originally but i dont think there is enough of the clay to the left of the socket to get the adapter on securely.

if i take all the clay out to the half pipe, can i just butt up plastic and cement around it? you use a particular mix for it iirc.

thanks for the advice

Sat Mar 12, 2011 8:43 pm

believe me jono its much quicker and easier cutting the pipe and using an adaptor
breaking into ICs is a whole can of worms that you dont need to get into unless your hand is forced
I had to connect into 1 today and it turned into a drama,but thats another story
cheers LLL

Sat Mar 12, 2011 8:53 pm

i ve done 2 foul connection this week and one things for sure white trainers and orange socks aren't for standing in 2" of sh1tty water haha

have you tiled ontop of the concrete?

Johno12345 · Post: # 60592Post **Johno12345** Sun Mar 13, 2011 12:21 am

to connect to the existing clay, i would have to do it between the ic and the first collar, only about 2" at the most, im not convinced that the rubber adapter i have will get a good seal on it.

as for my footwear, i was wearing boots before but changed before i took the pictures, i was hoping the water would have gone but 3 hours later and its still there :p

the tiles on the concrete are actually on screed on top of the original concrete footpath that circles the house. it was a conservatory before i demolished it, only the floor and dwarf wall remain

Post: # 60593Post **msh paving** Sun Mar 13, 2011 2:26 am

AC4000 fittings need 40-50mm to connect onto,so you will be fine..MSH

Johno12345 · Post: # 60605Post **Johno12345** Sun Mar 13, 2011 1:00 pm

one of these? if so, thats good because i have one

think this is probably next weeks job so ill see how it goes

Johno12345 · Post: # 60885Post **Johno12345** Sat Mar 19, 2011 7:58 pm

ok, done it today, all went to plan so here are some pictures

Sun Mar 20, 2011 1:56 am

what is the Y for?
LLL ???

Post: # 60893Post **Dave_L** Sun Mar 20, 2011 6:34 am

Ah a man who thinks ahead of a future connection to the system!

Post: # 60899Post **seanandruby** Sun Mar 20, 2011 8:22 am

lutonlagerlout wrote:what is the Y for?
LLL ???

Obviously he's a man who likes rats, so is providing an home for them :;):

Sun Mar 20, 2011 9:18 am

It's got an end cap and is it for that gully/rodding point just to the right on a swept 90

Post: # 60909Post **Dave_L** Sun Mar 20, 2011 10:35 am

Nice work Johno, in hindsight the others were 100% correct in what they were saying - as you've done, cut the existing pipe as you've done.