Closeboard fencing - On a slope

Other groundworks tasks, such as roads and footpaths, terracing, fencing, foundations, walls and brickwork, tools and plant.
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hooly1
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Joined: Mon Apr 26, 2004 3:42 pm
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Post: # 5780Post hooly1

There is a 8 inch slope one side to the other, round a corner garden. Iam closeboarding it 3 ft high, 20 ft in total, do i go with the slope by slightly dropping each board or try to keep the same height and lower the bottom ?

cheers

84-1093879891

Post: # 5784Post 84-1093879891

I'd go with the slope, normally, but 8 inches (200mm) over 20 feet (6metres) isn't all that much and I can't help wondering if a level top finish might not look better.

alan ditchfield
Posts: 203
Joined: Thu Jan 01, 1970 1:00 am
Location: Preston / Lancashire

Post: # 5814Post alan ditchfield

Personally i would use a 1200mm board i assume 100mm width follow the slope at the bottom then cut the top level 900 - 1100 as Tony says this would look better as a slope this small is irrelevant. Alan D.

hooly1
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Post: # 5820Post hooly1

Cheers, so do i then fix the pailings to the rails then cut stright, so some will be slightly shorter, that sounds good. Also do i place the rails on a slope, if so is there any tricks so i get the rails right. Would a jig saw, be better to cut the timber, if so would a cheap one do the job ?

cheers wish i had a digital camera to show a pic, and ive no usb, so i need a new pc too :(

cheers

Ps. All the books ive read only seem to deal with level ground :(

alan ditchfield
Posts: 203
Joined: Thu Jan 01, 1970 1:00 am
Location: Preston / Lancashire

Post: # 5831Post alan ditchfield

Put in the posts, Run the rails to the same slope as the ground (2 rails 1 being 200mm from the ground and the second the same from the top) run the boards on to the slope of the ground, then mark the tops with a long spirit level to give you the 900 to 1100 difference and cut off with a saw of your choice. hope this makes sense Alan D.:p

ABILITY
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Post: # 5832Post ABILITY

Invest in a decent sharp hand saw, rather than a Jiggy, for this job, give you a better line in the end.
20ft run won't make arm ache too much.
Ability.

hooly1
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Post: # 5864Post hooly1

After a few days i got the idea :D put the rails on then cut, i would have sawed off then put on, then it finally clicked :)

Just need to put a bolt down bracket on now, due to loads of concrete, and its from the edge of the curb to the house brick, and i think it make may it worse if i try to break up. Any idea the best drill to use, would a normal hammer job do ? to drills the holes. And were the curb joins the garden the concrete huncing is were i want the holes so ive gone in 3 inchs, would i be better to break it up or just do as i have ?

cheers

84-1093879891

Post: # 5888Post 84-1093879891

I think a typical hammer drill would be the tool to use. If you have some haunching in the way, it's often easier to break it out and do the fixing job, then re-place a bit of fresh haunching, as and where needed.

hooly1
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Post: # 6010Post hooly1

All done
Image

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