Snake pointing - Method
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if I was doing that pointing bodge ,i would make the joint a lot wider than they have shown there say 25-35 mm leave it for 2-3 hours then cut it off with a frenchman and a pointing tool,
i cant say if it would last as water would tend to lay on the joint
birds beak is much more common on stonework as the water gets discharged
yours is like this --TT-- where as birdsbeak is --/\--
cheers LLL
i cant say if it would last as water would tend to lay on the joint
birds beak is much more common on stonework as the water gets discharged
yours is like this --TT-- where as birdsbeak is --/\--
cheers LLL
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That's what we call ribbon pointing.
You need a stiff but sticky mix and a small hawk, say only 100-150mm is a boon. Build up the mortar wider than required, smooth to a flat profile and then trim the top and bottom edges.
It's a l--o--n--g and s--l--o--w process, and I've never been convinced that it's worth the effort.
From a Nistoric point of view, I'm not sure how this form of pointing originated. For it to work well, you need a hard cement mortar, but traditionally, stone jointing mortar was always soft-ish and usually lime-based.
Structurally, it's of no real benefit. It provides niches for water to lodge against the masonry, which is a bit naughty!
You need a stiff but sticky mix and a small hawk, say only 100-150mm is a boon. Build up the mortar wider than required, smooth to a flat profile and then trim the top and bottom edges.
It's a l--o--n--g and s--l--o--w process, and I've never been convinced that it's worth the effort.
From a Nistoric point of view, I'm not sure how this form of pointing originated. For it to work well, you need a hard cement mortar, but traditionally, stone jointing mortar was always soft-ish and usually lime-based.
Structurally, it's of no real benefit. It provides niches for water to lodge against the masonry, which is a bit naughty!
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